Have searched the forums up and down looking for a similar problem and answer and no luck, so hoping I can enlist some help!

Car: 2005 / A4

Problem: Car won't start

What I have tried already:
1. Tried starting with two different FOBs.
2. Used both FOBs in the glove compartment.
3. Tried jump starting.

Symptoms and Observations:
1. I can get in the car without issue (car recognizes FOB to unlock).
2. FOB opens hatch.
3. Dash lights, accessory mode, and hood light all work properly.
4. Trunk button inside car works.
5. Fuel button has only worked correctly once since the problem surfaced.
6. When attempting to start, there are two heavy "clicks" from the engine. (These are not the normal relays clicking heard inside the car.)
7. After attempting to start, accesory mode comes on and the engine light remains on. Wasn't sure if that was a "true" indicator or it's on because the engine light always comes on when the car is normally started.
8. Battery has no corrosion.
9. Fuses--in my novice head--were seated properly and looked fine.

History:
1. No battery or electrical issues ever.
2. No recent warning or indicators.


My first thought was that it was the battery because the sounds I heard were very reminiscent of what you hear when trying to start a car with a dead battery. However, electronics and lights still work and I believe the Dead Battery Syndrome was only affecting MN6 vehicles...not sure though.

Clearly I'm not a mechanic and not immediately close to a dealer, so looking online for help first.

Thanks in advance.

 

Heh i just went through thee EXACT problem last month, and i mean exactly.

Had it towed to chevy dealer, and they threw a new battery in the car. Car started up ran for three days, then did it again. They then put in a new altenator, ran fine for a few days and kept getting service chargin system soon errors.

The mechanic said he ran a new terminal wire, new +/- battery terminal wires and starter wire. Since then I have yet to experience an electrical problem.

 

this is one of those times when the onstar button is actually worth the money.

 

That really does sound like a dead battery. If you have access to a digital volt meter, try hooking it up to the battery and prop it up so you can read it from inside the car. Try to start the car and see what the voltage drop is. If you are getting something really low - like under 9-10 volts, there's something wrong with the battery. All the other accessories don't really require a lot of energy so they may work OK until you try to turn over the engine. Like the other poster said, there may be additional problems that are causing the battery to discharge/not charge, but it's a place to start (no pun intended).

 

Thanks for everyone's input so far. Really appreciate the help.


Tested with a Volt Meter. Here are the results:

At rest, battery reads: 10.0 Volts
When attempting to start, battery drops to between 8.75-9.25V

So is the issue that at rest I'm not reading 12V, or that when I do attempt to start it I'm down to 9V or below? Or both?

 

That looks like a dead cell in the battery.

 

So please forgive my ignorance, but if it is a dead cell, shouldn't I still be able to start it with a jump?

 

Change the battery. When I'm working on my car for extended periods of time with the doors and hood open, it usually wont start if the lights caused the battery to go under 11 volts. You clearly have a low voltage issue. The low voltage can however be related to a bad electrical connection and the jump start wouldnt get the power passed a bad connection. The terminals also can be checked at the starter. Also make sure the red wire on the rear of the alternator is tightened. Its a 13mm nut.

 

10 volts @ rest is way too low. Has the car been sitting w/o a battery maintainer for a long time?
I think the battery is not providing enough energy to start the car - so, both.


It seems to me that you still should be able to jump start with a dead cell - but I'm not 100% about that. Are
you sure you had everything solidly connected....can try jumping again with the voltmeter connected just to be sure.

 

Eh when aaa came to try to jump the car before towing me to the dealer, he put one of those nifty battery packs on, soon as i pushed the start button all you would hear is 20 clicks then nothing. without the pack on, 2 clicks then nothing.

if your car is still under warranty, just refer to my problem, im sure you can get your problem fixed in one day, where as i spent 3 weeks just to find the solution.

 

10.0 volts battery is a dead battery, it doesn't have the cranking power. Battery volts should be 13.4/13.8. Change it.

 

Car hasn't been driven much, but still 2-3x over the last 10 days. It has only sit for 3 days without being driven.

Have not been able to check with voltmeter while jumping...will have to try that in the morning when I have some reinforcements.

 

If the battery has a bad cell it could act like a short once the jumper cables are connected, which would keep the power from getting to the starter, preventing your car from starting. You could try disconnecting the battery cables from your battery and hooking up the jumper cables at those battery connections. That should get the car started if it's a bad cell.

 

I wasn't able to check at the starter. Although the wiring leading down from the battery terminals appear in good order and undisturbed. Not THAT competent I suppose!

I did check the red wire on the rear of the alternator and it is tightened down well.

 

If this is the original battery, it might be time for a replacement.

 

Had a similar issue on the SO's Buick this Wednesday. Stopped for gas, then just clicking and ALL the idiot lights came on. Headlights did not dim when we tried to start. No warning whatsoever. AAA jump worked. Put in a new battery.

 

Invest in a new battery. You'll at least eliminate that item from your troubleshooting and you need one anyway.

 

I just ran into the same issue w/ my2005 vette yesterday. Went out to the garage and could not get in... totally dead. Tried to jump it... got dash lights, but would not start.

Replaced the battery and everything is fine... so far! I took the old battery, along with my receipt for the new battery, to the Chevy Dealer and they have processed a request to GM to reimburse me the amount for the new battery. Said I should receive a check in the mail in a few weeks.

I had never had any issues with my battery in the past either. Just drove it a week ago with no issues.

I would definitely recommend putting a new battery in your car!

Good Luck!

 

Now if yours is a manual tranny, then DBS is a distinct possibility!
And it can only be fixed with a dealer BCM upgrade reflash.

 

As has been indicated, replace the battery. The number of times you've "driven" it in the past 10 days is not the quesiton, how long you drove it each of those times is. It takes close to 30 minutes of driving to restore the battery back to full charge. If you only took a couple of short hops it will likely leave the battery with less charge than when before you started it. With an A4 DBS in its true form is not likely the culprit.