electrical





B3(terminal)
TN/WH (tan wire with white stripe)
1969
Headlamp High Beam Relay Control
F11(terminal)
D-GN/WH(dark green wire with white stripe)
1317
Fog Lamp Relay Control
connect doide from b3 -> f11
terminals are marked on back of connector
Last edited by HPS MASTER TECH; Mar 24, 2008 at 01:21 AM.





so to be clear you want me to jumper at thw connector not the relays?
what ever little voltage it might show when not activated is back feed throught the computer.
Would you happen to have a Radio Shack part number (or recommended rating) for that diode.





Would you happen to have a Radio Shack part number (or recommended rating) for that diode.

The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





Keep me posted please if you get it working like you want it to.
Thanks










B3(terminal)
TN/WH (tan wire with white stripe)
1969
Headlamp High Beam Relay Control
F11(terminal)
D-GN/WH(dark green wire with white stripe)
1317
Fog Lamp Relay Control
connect doide from b3 -> f11
terminals are marked on back of connector

Just FYI, you can click here to see a very basic schematic of how I accomplished this on my C5. I used the + supply to the high beams to pull in a relay that then turned on power going from the accessory power wires to the fogs. The relay was there to do what the diode would be doing in this thread, make sure the fogs came on with the brights, but not the brights when you only wanted to use the fogs.
Fog Lights
Headlights 1of2
Headlights 2of2
If I'm reading them right.....
When the BCM wants the high beams to be on, it grounds circuit 1969. By looking at the print, circuit 1969 will ALWAYS have +12V on it.
When the BCM wants the fogs to be on it supplies +12V to circuit 1317. 1317 is the supply side of the already grounded relay 38.
So.... If we were to jumper C3/B3 to C3/F11 we would be connecting the always hot 1969 to the supply side of relay 38, which means the fog lights would come on and stay on, forever. Right? Am I missing something?
I still think we can make this work. If we used either circuit 711 or 311 (C1/D4 or C1/C4) as the supply instead of 1969, then the fogs would only come on when the high beams were actually energized.
How does that sound?
Unless someone torpedos my logic, maybe after I get some sleep I'll hook up my amp meter in series from 711 to 1317 to see if it works and measure the current (which shouldn't be much at all to pull in a relay).
I'm still 99% sure I can make this work. Some time in the next few days I'll make the time to do some experiments. I might even take some pics along the way, so you may want to subscribe to this thread
still using the b3 and f11 terminals.
if your familur with relays you know the terminal layout.
85, 86, 87, 87a, 30. (5 terminal relay)
connect:
85- b3
86- battery power
87- battery power
30- f11
87a- not used





still using the b3 and f11 terminals.
if your familur with relays you know the terminal layout.
85, 86, 87, 87a, 30. (5 terminal relay)
connect:
85- b3
86- battery power
87- battery power
30- f11
87a- not used
hey Markcz wanna give this a try? im busy all week
still using the b3 and f11 terminals.
if your familur with relays you know the terminal layout.
85, 86, 87, 87a, 30. (5 terminal relay)
connect:
85- b3
86- battery power
87- battery power
30- f11
87a- not used
The power side of the high beam relay 39 is pretty much already doing the exact same thing. I plan on tapping one of the wires going directly to the high beam bulb as my +12V source for pin F11. All I need to decide is if I want to use a diode or a relay to make sure the circuits STAY separated. Right now I'm leaning towards a relay (call me old fashioned, but I trust them). I was also thinking about installing an on/off switch so the mod can easily be disabled if needed.
I'd hook it up like this:
coil pin 85: circuit 711 or 311 (depending which I can find and easily tap)
coil pin 86: ground
switch pin 87: fused battery +
switch pin 30: circuit 1317
Most definitely
If I can't get to it Wednesday (which I guess is today
) I'll make the time on Thursday.





