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I have a 05 C6 with about 4200 miles
I have head, cam, headers, gears and air box
Start the car let it warm up to maybe 100 degress coolant temp.
Start to drive as soon as I hit about 3000 rpm car bogs down shift to second gear hit around 3000 same thing bogs down. Then it disappears car drives normally. Any ideas ? I thought maybe with inactivity the car has a clog in the fuel system......then again I am not a car buff so no clue about this stuff any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Doesn't sound like fuel to me, Bill. If the fuel were bad, the car would be running bad all around, not just bogging at 3K a few times. Were you on it, or just mildly accelerating?
Doesn't sound like fuel to me, Bill. If the fuel were bad, the car would be running bad all around, not just bogging at 3K a few times. Were you on it, or just mildly accelerating?
, if it were a fuel delivery problem it would be persistent and not just go away after a few bogs. More info on this is needed to attempt to find the problem. Who did the tune on the car or was the car tuned after the mods?
I had no problems after the tune. Only once I had driven the car when I just got it back and for some reason the car bogged from the moment I started to drive it. I stopped waited and tried driving again and it bogged again. I shut the car off completely restared and it was fine.
Now these times almost a year later this has happen. I am not getting on it just accelerating as normal and bam the bog hits like I said around 3000 rpm. What wierd it goes away and does not seem to come back until I shut the car down let it cool and then try to drive it again. Its about 36 here today. This is new and next time I take it out will be curious if I get it again. Does this info help?
the car was tuned here on LI New York
Don't know which airbox you went with, but pull it and make sure you don't have an obstruction on your MAF screen. It's far fetched, but worth looking at.
Don't know which airbox you went with, but pull it and make sure you don't have an obstruction on your MAF screen. It's far fetched, but worth looking at.
also oil on the MAF wires can cause this too. (I've been told) Is there a way to clean the MAF screen from any residue from the oil of an aftermarket air filter?
also oil on the MAF wires can cause this too. (I've been told) Is there a way to clean the MAF screen from any residue from the oil of an aftermarket air filter?
Now you are jogging my memory. If I over-oiled the K&N filter, my 94 Camaro would buck at low engine speeds if I lugged it. I used electrical cleaner from Checkers. I think they actually make a MAF cleaning fluid. I sprayed the elements in the MAF and the problem would immediately disappear. Knkali, excellent call!
CHECK THE WIRE THAT GOES TOWARDS THE ALTERNATOR, MAKE SURE IS NOT RUNNING CLOSE TO THE COILS!
The wire runs parallel to the intake manifold....take the covers out and check that wire....
CHECK THE WIRE THAT GOES TOWARDS THE ALTERNATOR, MAKE SURE IS NOT RUNNING CLOSE TO THE COILS!
The wire runs parallel to the intake manifold....take the covers out and check that wire....
Bill, its not the gas, it's not a wire, etc...nothing here is pointing to that...if it were it would happen ALL the time, not just bog at 3000 rpm when the car is warming up and then run fine when its warm...only to repeat when the car is warming again.
Your not mentioning that you had major performance issues and drivabilty problems in the lower midrange after you had the heads and cam installed, to the point that even with a cam, heads, headers and a CAI, and still if you nailed it in 1st, you could not break the tires loose. If I remember right from what you told me and Spin, you didnt have the heads installed you originally thought, and you had major torque loss below 3000 rpm. Instead of having the issues completely fixed then, you installed 4.10 gears which got you around them, but never actually addressed the cause. Those same power problems are resurfacing, as they were never actually fixed. If the tune is not right, cold weather, part throttle acceleration etc will suffer, consequently add up the already missing power at and below 3000 rpm and you will have issues. A fully warm dyno scan and tune will not uncover your problem, it needs to be scanned and adjusted during the same part throttle/temp parameters you are feeling it now.
Give you know who a call and ask him to scan your car on the street and he will find it and fix it for you. Be sure to leave it there overnight so he can duplicate the conditions, I think you'll find your tune just needs some tweaking.
Last edited by Craigster05; Mar 25, 2008 at 11:10 AM.
I would start by looking at all the wirings....alternator cable, coils, loose cable coils, sparks plugs,etc..
If visually you dont see anything then go ahead and re-check your tune
Bill, its not the gas, it's not a wire, etc...nothing here is pointing to that...if it were it would happen ALL the time, not just bog at 3000 rpm when the car is warming up and then run fine when its warm...only to repeat when the car is warming again.
Your not mentioning that you had major performance issues and drivabilty problems in the lower midrange after you had the heads and cam installed, to the point that even with a cam, heads, headers and a CAI, and still if you nailed it in 1st, you could not break the tires loose. If I remember right from what you told me and Spin, you didnt have the heads installed you originally thought, and you had major torque loss below 3000 rpm. Instead of having the issues completely fixed then, you installed 4.10 gears which got you around them, but never actually addressed the cause. Those same power problems are resurfacing, as they were never actually fixed. If the tune is not right, cold weather, part throttle acceleration etc will suffer, consequently add up the already missing power at and below 3000 rpm and you will have issues. A fully warm dyno scan and tune will not uncover your problem, it needs to be scanned and adjusted during the same part throttle/temp parameters you are feeling it now.
Give you know who a call and ask him to scan your car on the street and he will find it and fix it for you. Be sure to leave it there overnight so he can duplicate the conditions, I think you'll find your tune just needs some tweaking.
Craig that sounds right but it never happen before and I have driven the car with the gears for over 600 miles and nothing like this happen. Even with the heads and cam and the lack of low end I never had a bog problem like what I have encountered. The gears definetly woke this car up whether or not its 100 percent it does feel like it. The gears blow me threw the low end and get the revs up so the car swallows air and launches I am so happy I did the gears. Now it breaks loose with the best of them and really turned into a unexpected perfect result.The only dilema I have now is this bog I just got. I am going to drive it for a week or so and see if it works itself out. Check the wires and kick the tires because I know zero about cars period. I appreciate the help and I would revisit the tune with a second party if the freakin computer was not LOCKED ahhhhh another post for another time. I will se what happen and keep the info coming because I could use all the help I can get
Everyone ca speculate all day or you can have me scan it for you. The trick here is to have it doing it when I scan the car. Remember that I cant adjust anything due to your locked tune but at least you will know what it doing it.
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