lowering (cutting bushings)?????
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 1
From: LAS VEGAS NV
lowering (cutting bushings)?????
lowered the car all the way on the stock bolts and its not low enough.
the dealership did my last c6 via cutting the bushings but charged me $300 which i thinnk is too steep.
is this something i can do myself or should i pay them?(again).
the bushing, is it all rubber? where to cut? i here it may be time consuming but i have all day.
i heard of using a pvc pipe cutter or sawzall? granted i will be in my garage with no lift and just a floor jack.
any tips,tech advice & pics are greatly appreciated.
john
the dealership did my last c6 via cutting the bushings but charged me $300 which i thinnk is too steep.
is this something i can do myself or should i pay them?(again).
the bushing, is it all rubber? where to cut? i here it may be time consuming but i have all day.
i heard of using a pvc pipe cutter or sawzall? granted i will be in my garage with no lift and just a floor jack.
any tips,tech advice & pics are greatly appreciated.
john
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,446
Likes: 1
From: Garden State
I used a cable saw to cut threw the bushing. Didnt even have to take off the rear wheels. I took out 3/4 of the rear bushing and I think it looks awesome now. ITs easy to calculate once you see them, they are made of of ribs, looks like donuts stacked on top of each other.
Word of advice. If you use a cable saw buy 4. Two per side. They work WAY better when they are fresh. They will start to get gummed up after chewing threw the rubber bushing. Once progress starts to slow, take it out and use another. They are only a few bucks a piece. Got mine at home depot or lowes (cant remember which now). I also used synthetic grease and greased the bolt and bushing down in case of squeeks. Its been a month or so and zero squeeks.
Word of advice. If you use a cable saw buy 4. Two per side. They work WAY better when they are fresh. They will start to get gummed up after chewing threw the rubber bushing. Once progress starts to slow, take it out and use another. They are only a few bucks a piece. Got mine at home depot or lowes (cant remember which now). I also used synthetic grease and greased the bolt and bushing down in case of squeeks. Its been a month or so and zero squeeks.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,231
Likes: 0
From: Brownsville Tx
I still cant get how ya'll are able to do this. I went at mine with that cable saw and couldnt really get anywhere with it. It was really tough! Not only that, but it seems there is some kind of hard sleeve inside the rubber bushing? How do you get through that? And when do do finally cut the bushing all the way around, what are you using to cut the doughnut in half to remove it?
Racer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver Washington
I still cant get how ya'll are able to do this. I went at mine with that cable saw and couldnt really get anywhere with it. It was really tough! Not only that, but it seems there is some kind of hard sleeve inside the rubber bushing? How do you get through that? And when do do finally cut the bushing all the way around, what are you using to cut the doughnut in half to remove it?
Cable saw and make sure it does not spin while cutting.
Oh ya ! Get a 6pack down before starting the project.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver Washington
Lowering
I lowered mine last night as well as new shocks. I used a floor jack to lift the rear and placed a stand on the spring about 6 inches from the bushing.
This will take pressure off the bushing and raise the bushing to make it easier to see and saw through. Put Channel locks on the top of the bolt so it does not spin while cutting through.
I used a Sawzall but pvc pipe saw wire works also.
Measure before you start so you know how much it has dropped.
Drive to around the block and re-measure.
Mine was 1 inch in the back and 3/4 in the front.
Front was not cut just screwed all the way in. The back i cut two ribs off and it went down 1-1/4 and you can always raise it.
Im going to play with it more today. You want the same distance between the tire and wheel wells front and rear.
Stock they are 1/4 inch off on a few corners.
My back right rear was 1/4 lower than left rear stock.
Front was the same and im going to try to even them up so its better than factory.
Final specs.
25-3/4 front
27-1/4 rear
Front is 1/4 lower from wheel to wheel well than rear.
No Beer....
This will take pressure off the bushing and raise the bushing to make it easier to see and saw through. Put Channel locks on the top of the bolt so it does not spin while cutting through.
I used a Sawzall but pvc pipe saw wire works also.
Measure before you start so you know how much it has dropped.
Drive to around the block and re-measure.
Mine was 1 inch in the back and 3/4 in the front.
Front was not cut just screwed all the way in. The back i cut two ribs off and it went down 1-1/4 and you can always raise it.
Im going to play with it more today. You want the same distance between the tire and wheel wells front and rear.
Stock they are 1/4 inch off on a few corners.
My back right rear was 1/4 lower than left rear stock.
Front was the same and im going to try to even them up so its better than factory.
Final specs.
25-3/4 front
27-1/4 rear
Front is 1/4 lower from wheel to wheel well than rear.
No Beer....
Last edited by Darwin11; Apr 8, 2008 at 03:44 PM.
