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When changing your differential fluid what should it look like? Mine came out looking like metal flake paint, is this normal? I have also noticed after racing, that more rubber is in the drivers side wheel well than in the passenger's side, noticeably more, with positraction shouldn't they be close to the same? Drivers side DR is more worn that passengers side, does this mean the posi unit is slipping?
I think if it was slipping you would notice. I can only imagine that normal wear will generate some metal flake in the oil but don't have hands on experience to confirm.
When changing your differential fluid what should it look like? Mine came out looking like metal flake paint, is this normal? I have also noticed after racing, that more rubber is in the drivers side wheel well than in the passenger's side, noticeably more, with positraction shouldn't they be close to the same? Drivers side DR is more worn that passengers side, does this mean the posi unit is slipping?
The metalic flakes in the lubricant does not seem normal?
More rubber deposits on left side could be normal, on a CCW track (more left turns).
When I had my 94 Z28, it had the 10 bolt diff which I had to remove the diff cover to change the fluid.
I remember the fluid looking clean, but having a good bit of silver particles in it. I had no issues with it and used drag radials at the track.. Seems the initial break-in causes alot of wear at first.. this eases up to almost nothing over time...
When changing your differential fluid what should it look like? Mine came out looking like metal flake paint, is this normal?
Yea, I think this is normal. I noticed the same thing in my Vette when I changed it 4K miles after it was new; looked like a grey metallic paint. I also noticed this when I changed it in my 91 Camaro a long time ago. Kind of surprised that Chevy doesn't put a magnetic plug on the differentials, too. Anyway, here's what I replaced that ugly differential oil with....runs quiet and smooth as a baby's ***.