Okay Guys Im done with the Looks of my car....I have the rear spoiler lower valance, Zo6 wheels , BFGOODRICH KDW2 295/35/18/19 & a 2 inch drop ...Now i want to work on my performance! can you guys tell me what you guys have on your own cars and how much HP & TQ you PUSH? IT WOULD BE A GREAT AMOUNT OF HELP!!! THANK YOU!





as as you can see the lower valance is not yet installed in this PIC

 

I am confused. Your profile says that you own a tuner shop, we should be asking you.

 

In the Craze of bolt-on appearance parts started w/ the movie F&F, many started calling shops that install and sell those appearance parts "Tuner" shops when in fact no tuning goes on...

But, anyways, no disrespect to this guy, its just like why is a driveway where you park and a parkway where you drive?


Now to answers Satan`s question, take a look at my sig, those are good for starters, especially a tune at a tuner shop...

 

A little odd isn't it?

 

wtf

 

I would say LED'S on the wheels would finish her off. Perhaps a BRAW.
On the subject of POWER INCREASES WE LOOK TO YOU FOR GUIDANCE.

 

There is a lot to learn here, did you notice the AIM username on the tuner shops profile?

 

 

OK, my 2 cents worth:

First realize there is nothing wrong with the way the car came from the factory, and that the 400HP it has is the result of years of research crafting a compromise between power, emissions, reliability, driveability. When you begin to mod, you will be compromising these to some extent.

Then decide what you want the car to do... Is it a daily driver? Weekend warrior? Something you want to take to the track? Do you want it to do fast 1/4 miles, go around a circuit fast, etc...
By thinking about the question above you will get a feel for how much power you can use. A daily driver on street tires won't be able to use as much power as a 1/4 mile car running slicks, obviously.

After you've set a power goal, it becomes easier deciding how to get there. It appears to me that anything past, say, 500whp is impractical on a street car (although I know many here would disagree with that). Below 500whp it is cheaper to keep the car N/A, but if you have the budget for forced induction (supercharging or turbocharging) you can make that much power and more on a more civilized package.

I decided to remain N/A. My mod path has been as follows:

VaraRam Cold Air Intake
Kooks 1 3/4 Long tube headers, JetHot coated, with high flow cats
GHL Exhaust
160F Thermostat
Tune.

The car currently makes 395rwhp/387rwtq. This is an increase of approximately 55hp over stock.
A typical next step would be to add a cam to the car (another 30rwhp) or do cams+heads (+60rwhp) or cams, heads, intake manifold. The cam choice you make will vastly affect horsepower and driveability, but any mod you make will benefit from having headers and an intake, so those are a very good starting point....


--Sam.

 

This is what I did:

LG Long Tube Headers
Xcelerator (Honker knock-off) Cold Air Inlet
160 thermostat
Ported stock intake
HPTuners Tune

Puts down 365 rwhp for an Automatic, but runs 12.03 at 118.4 mph in the quarter mile (and this is at 1240 foot of altitude in Phoenix, not mineshaft air in New Jersey )

The next step would be to do high stall converter, heads, and a cam, but I didn't want to affect the driveability one bit.

 

YEA We work on muscle cars and when i say tuner shop we we install parts on them -_- would it be hard to help?!

 

thanks to the guys that did help btw !

 

Just curious....to the two guys that did answer, what was the approximate cost of those mods?

 

2500 dollars including the tune. The hard parts I installed myself and ported my own intake. Most charge around 300 for a pro port I beleive.

 

My breakdown was roughly as follows (numbers from memory, rounded):

$280 for a used low mileage Vararam CAI
$1500 for the JetHot coated, 1 3/4" Kooks headers with dual catted X pipe
$30 for the 160F Thermostat
$550 for the professional dyno tune at RPM Motors in Valencia, CA.
Installation was free because I always do my own work.

Also, add
$1100 for the GHL exhaust (that's what I think it costs; it came with the car so I paid nothing). Changing the exhaust will net you maybe 5hp, btw; this is mainly for sound only.

 

LG Long Tube Headers $1800 (installed myself)
Xcelerator (Honker knock-off) Cold Air Inlet $300 (installed myself)
160 thermostat $25 (installed myself)
Ported stock intake $200 (installed myself)
HPTuners Tune $500 (includes buying HPtuners, selling some credits and paying for a local tuner & dyno time)

TOTAL: $2825

 

ANYONE HAVE A HEAD AND CAM PACKAGE? THATS WHAT IM MAINLY AIMING FOR , I just dont want to try to do new research and buy 4 different cams and 4different heads if the research is probably done by someone else but all the headers / intake/ thermostat/ and all the other good stuff seem to be very HELPFUL THANKS FOR THE HELP GUYS!!!

 

I ran a Cartek head and cam combo for a while, very nice results. New motor makes north of 500rwhp through 4:10s.

 

It kind of depends what your ultimate goal is.

I put CNC ported heads, a Lingenfelter GT11 cam, ported intake and throttle body from LS2 Works, and a tune from Tom Wong.

I now have a very well behaved car around town that turns into a monster when I put my foot into it. 440 RWHP.

Not a radical package compared to many on the forum, but a tried and true combo that satisfies me.

 

That sounds a lot like what I am looking for! Care to share some prices with us?

I think Charlie at RPM motors charges around $900 for CNC porting heads... I wish I still lived in California so I could give him my business... Seems like most head work (say, AFR 205 heads) costs a lot more than that...