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Hi all,
There seems to be a lot of threads on rotors and calipers from sizes to cross drilled and slotted, stock to aftermarket. The question I have is this; If you just use your car for touring, no autocross or track use. In day to day driving can you really feel the difference if you upgrade your rotors and or calipers?
thanks,
Mike
Last edited by mikeci; May 22, 2008 at 07:56 AM.
Reason: spelling
The stock brakes are very impressive, read any car magazine test on dtopping distance. The Z51 brakes seem to be the only ones tested but either brakes can lock up the tires. Track brakes are more about fade resistance and pad life, very different from street brakes.
For sreet driving the TIRES have more to do with stopping distance than the stock brakes (thats why we have ABS).
Last edited by haljensen; May 22, 2008 at 10:45 AM.
Go to ebay, buy rotors from R1 Concepts. Zinc coated and slap 2 Wagner Thermoquiets fromAUtozone.... both fronts done for about 200 dollars... oh and remember to bleed the brake lines.... BIG difference...
results,
NO SQUEAK,
NO DUST,
and green in the pocket.
Follow the above if you're a street driver and not a racing maniac.
I too went down the ridiculous HPS Hawk brake pad route and was extremely disappointed with the school bus sqeuaky stops.
that is after I burnished and bedded the brakes after 5 diff occasions hoping that the damn squeal would go away.
Go to ebay, buy rotors from R1 Concepts. Zinc coated and slap 2 Wagner Thermoquiets fromAUtozone.... both fronts done for about 200 dollars... oh and remember to bleed the brake lines.... BIG difference...
results,
NO SQUEAK,
NO DUST,
and green in the pocket.
Follow the above if you're a street driver and not a racing maniac.
I too went down the ridiculous HPS Hawk brake pad route and was extremely disappointed with the school bus sqeuaky stops.
that is after I burnished and bedded the brakes after 5 diff occasions hoping that the damn squeal would go away.
Good luck.
If you don't "enter" the system there is no need to bleed your brakes. You'll likely do more harm than good unless you know what you are doing.
90% of people who buy aftermarket brake upgrade kits, do so for appearance.
Most race ready brake pads need heat to work well.
So real improvements will be see only in extreme conditions.
Anytime calipers are changed it is recommended that the brakes are bled.
To bleed brakes begin with the right rear then left rear proceed to the front right and front left.
Make sure that silicone brake fluid is added to master cylinder.
Always be careful to make sure that there is brake fluid in the master cylinder. And have someone help by pressing on the brake pedal and holding the brake pedal down until the bleeder screws are retightened.
90% of people who buy aftermarket brake upgrade kits, do so for appearance.
Most race ready brake pads need heat to work well.
So real improvements will be see only in extreme conditions.
Anytime calipers are changed it is recommended that the brakes are bled.
To bleed brakes begin with the right rear then left rear proceed to the front right and front left.
Make sure that silicone brake fluid is added to master cylinder.
Always be careful to make sure that there is brake fluid in the master cylinder. And have someone help by pressing on the brake pedal and holding the brake pedal down until the bleeder screws are retightened.
Don't you mean "non" silicone fluid?
Be careful whos advice you take on this Forum.
Hi all,
There seems to be a lot of threads on rotors and calipers from sizes to cross drilled and slotted, stock to aftermarket. The question I have is this; If you just use your car for touring, no autocross or track use. In day to day driving can you really feel the difference if you upgrade your rotors and or calipers?
An inexpensive upgrade for better pedal feel for street brakes is to change the brake lines to Stainless Steel. I have the Stoptech lines and they are great.