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If the shocks are on the car? Maybe I'm missing something.
Tell us how.
Lets do the front first. Jack up one corner, support the control arm with a different jack. Remove top nut with, then let the control arm down. Reach in there and pull off the cover and throw a zip tie on it. Line the shock back up in the hole and tighten nut. Make sure you take a good look at the bushings.
Now to the rear of the car. Everything is the same as the front, besides you will have two bolts holding the football shaped bracket.
One side of the car is a 15 minute and the other side should only take 10 more minutes.
Lets do the front first. Jack up one corner, support the control arm with a different jack. Remove top nut with, then let the control arm down. Reach in there and pull off the cover and throw a zip tie on it. Line the shock back up in the hole and tighten nut. Make sure you take a good look at the bushings.
Now to the rear of the car. Everything is the same as the front, besides you will have two bolts holding the football shaped bracket.
One side of the car is a 15 minute and the other side should only take 10 more minutes.
Randy
The gas pressure in the shock extends it when you lower the control arm. And on the rear you have to remove the football, right? I guess I'm still missing something. Or are you talking about a shock that is not gas pressurized?
Last edited by davekp78; Jun 22, 2008 at 07:56 AM.
I think you mean scrub radius, not scrub steer. Also, since both tires hit the transition joint, the net effect on the steering wheel would be zero. It is more likely that he is "jerking" the steering wheel himself as a response to the impact. In other words, when the car hits the "harsh transition joint", the vertical component of the cars' movement causes a human reaction at the steering wheel because the seat absorbs the "bump" and the relative relationship between the driver and steering wheel is changed. He might be holding the steering wheel with just one hand causing an unintended input to the steering wheel. I've had it happen to me and tested my theory by taking both hands off the steering wheel when I hit the transition...the car didn't jump to either side, just kept going straight. Problem solved, human induced error...again.
You're absolutely correct the distance I described is called the scrub radius, the force or feedback is known as scrub steer. I think we are on the same page as far as the C5 and C6 steering as having enough gain to take a steady hand in keeping the car steady.
The gas pressure in the shock extends it when you lower the control arm. And on the rear you have to remove the football, right? I guess I'm still missing something. Or are you talking about a shock that is not gas pressurized?
Dave,
The zip tie goes on the shock shaft that is exposed to the air. DON"T TRY TO TAKE APART THE SHOCK. The rear you have to remove the football shaped mount, in order to remove the top pin mount nut.
If the overpass is a turning one and he drops off the transition with the outside tire "loaded" the bump steer could be the culprit. The wheel will rapidly change angle on the outside and not as much on the inside since it is not compressed.
I would also suggest a looser grip on the wheel as it will center it self quickly and you may just make it worse with a jerk of the wheel.
If the overpass is a turning one and he drops off the transition with the outside tire "loaded" the bump steer could be the culprit. The wheel will rapidly change angle on the outside and not as much on the inside since it is not compressed.
See post #14 & 15...once again, it's not bump steer. The C6 has zero bump steer on the front suspension. The rear suspension has toe-in on compression and toe-out on rebound which is a good thing...enhances stability while cornering.
If we were talking about C3s, they had pretty bad bump steer in the front and the rear bump steer characteristics could induced frightening amounts of oversteer during transitions such as slaloms...one of the many unfortunate results of a 3-link de Dion independent rear suspension.
Dave,
The zip tie goes on the shock shaft that is exposed to the air. DON"T TRY TO TAKE APART THE SHOCK. The rear you have to remove the football shaped mount, in order to remove the top pin mount nut.
Randy
But the shock shaft has a COVER over it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You can't get at the shaft without removing the cover.
You just don't understand.
You have to REMOVE THE SHOCK to remove the cover. If you think not, you have NEVER ACTUALLY DONE IT!
YOU said it was a 15 minute job to apply the zip ties. It is not.
If you think you can do it in 15 minutes, YOU HAVE NEVER DONE IT!
You just don't understand.
You have to REMOVE THE SHOCK to remove the cover. If you think not, you have NEVER ACTUALLY DONE IT!
YOU said it was a 15 minute job to apply the zip ties. It is not.
If you think you can do it in 15 minutes, YOU HAVE NEVER DONE IT!
Now I quit this ridiculous discussion.
I'm sorry you feel this way. Book time on the front and rear shock R and R, is 1.4 hours. That includes removing the tie rod ends and extra to get the shock off the car.
If it were a 3 hour project, would that be ok to figure out your suspension a little bit more? IF not keep on driving the same car forever and never improve or go backwards.
I kinda figured it would be a little slow. I personal thought someone would have done this by now, concerning how many hours of typing have gone into suspension in the last month alone. I would be willing to guess over a million words have been typed about shocks in the past year. Not one person on the forum has posted lap times with changes, shock travel, tire wear differences in spring rates or anything else simular.
It's been all about the crappy feeling over bumps and it's too harsh. Now look at how many adjustable shocks are on the market, selling to customers that are willing to click away on the shock but never test anything, besides a feeling over bumps none the less.