Ok so I got some good brand advice but I have some questions on how it actually works. So please can somebody educate me on how a torque converter works and what the difference in the sizes are like the difference between a 2400 and a 3200. Thanks for the help.

 

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm

The major difference in a 2400 and 3200 stall is its ability to keep the engine in the higher rpm ranges during shifts. The TC will be looser with a higher stall but, will perform better. I used a 3000, 3600 and 4000 stall converters in my 1998 TA. I would go no less than a 3000 stall and those are bad at all. With the 3000 stall and Nitto DR's, I knocked 0.98 seconds off of my 1/4 mile time and daily drove perfect.

 

The only car for which a 2400 might make sense is one equiped with a maggie. Otherwise move up to a minimum 2800 - 3000.

 

That's Me,,,,,,with My Maggie,,,it's just too much tq for any higher of a stall than My 2800!!

 

well I am going with a 3200 but I was just curious as to how they actually worked. Do they drop the rpm on the motor or just keep it from hooking up all the way? I dont know anything about stall's so any info is helpful. Thanks.

 

The higher stall converter is like a slipping clutch. For instance, I had a 1998 TA with a Yank SS4000/2.60 Torque Converter. The 4000 is what the converter flashes to and the 2.60 is the STR (Stall Torque Ratio). What STR means is the torque multiplication off idle and the car not moving. The higher the STR, the harder the converter hits on launches and will require better tires. The stock converter is ~1600/1.8 for comparison. The higher the stall the more it slips. With the 4000, you have to give the car more gas to get it moving. Sometimes, on a slight incline the car could sit without and brake applied. At WOT, the stock converter would drop to 4000 rpm after shifting from 1st to 2nd gears. With the 4000 stall, the car would drop to 5000 rpm after the 1-2 shift. As you can see, the converter allows the engine to stay in the power band where it makes power. If you have aftermarket exhaust, it will seem louder since you will be using more rpm. For a good street and occassional strip converter. The 3000/2.2 stall would really be nice. I will say all torque converters are not the same. I have used a couple of manufacturers and you get what you pay for. I will only use 2 converter companies. Those are Yank and Precision Industries (Vigilante). Out of those, I was using Yank and always was happy and never had a issue with the converter. They are a work of art and perform as described. Check them out and make sure you look into getting a aftermaket transmission cooler like the B&M 24,000 GVW Cooler for ~$50. The key to avoiding transmission damage is keeping it cool. The higher stall TC will heat up the fluid faster since it slips more. The coolers are a cinch to install and a must have. Any other questions, just ask Too bad you not in my area. I would take for a ride in the TA to give you feel of what the high stall TC's can do.

 

also the lower the gears the easier to get going, and stock like feel, until you step on it

 

Yup. Raising the shift points makes a difference too. On the A4s just bumping them up a few miles per hour makes a noticable improvement with a high stall. I'd guess the same on the A6.

 

I really hope it's the same for the A6 as I just received a Yank 3600 today for my 07 C6.

I also found out that I'll be the first person with a 3600 converter in an A6 which is kinda cool and kinda scary at the same time. Dave (from Yank) is going to hook me up with a tuner who's already done several 3200 converters in G8s (which also have the same A6 transmission) so I'm pretty confident that I'll be able to get it dialed in properly.

 

i would greatly appreciate it if you let me know of the results. this is the exact set up i asked about awhile back 3.42s and a 3600 stall, can hardly wait for the results.

thanks
dicky

 

I definitely will and can also PM you too if you'd like once I have some numbers to post.

In an earlier post I theorized that the 3.42 gears didn't really help me all that much since my times were comparable to when I only had the 3.15's installed. As another person pointed out, comparing my times from a very hot June evening (with the 3.42s) to a somewhat cool March afternoon (with the 3.15s) wasn’t really comparing apples to apples.

I believe I experienced that first hand last night as I was able to pull off my fastest time ever (the third picture in the first post):

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2080562

The thing that’s even more interesting is that I ran that time with a stock torque converter. Dave from Yank seems to think that once I get it dialed in correctly it should be good for another 3-4 tenths which could take me very close to high 10’s.

 

 

Well thanks for the info I kinda see how it works now. My shift points are already raised on my first tune after my headers. They will be kept up on the next tune. Now Im looking forward to seeing what it can really do.

 

I can't imagine what a C6 A6 with 3.42s and a 3600 stall (and tires and proper tuning) will feel like, also very much looking forward to subfloor's results as well.

 

I have a 3800 stallie in my A6 Ve/G8 here in Australia with 3.45's. Your cars being lighter will go even harder
The tuning is a bit of an isssue but it's pretty well spot on now just trying to keep it off the 7k limiter when it shifts now. So far have managed a 1.62 60' and hoping for a 1.55 shortly.

Mine is a Circle D Billet Stallie so far it's seems to be a very good thing.

cheers

 

What specific issues did you have with getting it tuned properly? I'm literally in the middle of installing a Yank 3600 in my 07 Corvette so any info/advice you have would greatly appreciated.

If by some chance you tuned it with HP Tuners, is there any chance of having you email me your tune or at least the transmission part of it?

Thanks,
Christopher

 

Waiting patiently for your street and track results with the new 'verter Christopher.

 

Jeez, I'm working as fast as I can ya know! :-)

My trans and diff are on the garage floor as we speak so I'm still aiming to make it to the track on Wednesday. Plan B will be the Test and Tone on Friday night.

 

 

Only problem we are having is we are just touching the rev limiter before it shifts even though the commanded shift point is way lower than the limiter. MPH has also been adjusted so it isn't that we think it may be shift speed or line pressure related so am trying a few things to sort it.

Tuned using Efilive not Hpt sry mate, my car is making good power high 400's but weight 3900 lbs. We ran 11.83 last out with a 1.64 60' but lost a few tenths due to hitting limiter twice during run.

Your Vettes are going to fly with a similar setup.

cheers