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Which is the more dangerous option for vette owners? Which is the safer choice?
What do I need to worry about with Slicks?
What do I need to worry about with Drag Radials?
For those who go to the track often, which do you use and why?
Which is the best option and why? I would like to hear from those who have run both. I want to know what is the safest route to go for at the track. I plan on keeping my launchs relatively safe and low. Not more than 3k. But, I want to know what to be cautionary with.
Depends on power levels, transmission type, gearing and even which DRs or which slicks (DOT legal slicks I assume) you'll be using and which rims they'll be mounted on.
In most (say, under 500rwhp) applications I still think that a Mickey Thompson drag radial is the way to go.
if you want the best 60, in general a full slick is always going to be your best bet, especially if the track isn't prepper perfectly
if you could squeeze a 15" wheel with a big fat drag radial, that may not be too bad though, but i'm not sure what size wheels work on these cars as i haven't attempted slicks with them as of yet
For a "daily driver",,,Drag radials such as Nitto's 555r are pretty good{that's what I just put on}.
It just depends if Your going to drive it to the track,or "bring" the slicks with You!
The softer sidewall tires are always a little harder,and not as safe to drive.
Good luck!!
There really is no "perfect" street/drag strip tire!
if you're speaking strictly of a track tire...the slick is gonna be your best bet b/c it actually absorbs some of the driveline shock...be sure to run skinnies up front as it gets a little wobbly on the big end w/o them, they're good for about a .1 and 1mph too...most breakage occurs from wheel hop and I've never had my ET streets (cheater slicks) do it, they're also taller which helps again to absorb the launch...at your power levels you don't need a slick and shoudn't break anything even if it dead hooks b/c your stock clutch will slip first, but you can up the air pressure so the slick doesn't hook as hard...you also say you won't be launching over 3krpm(you can get away w/ that on street tires)...I'd consider ~4krpm, right where the torque curve really comes in, it'll keep you from bogging or having to feather the clutch(more wear and tear)
if you're speaking strictly of a track tire...the slick is gonna be your best bet b/c it actually absorbs some of the driveline shock...be sure to run skinnies up front as it gets a little wobbly on the big end w/o them, they're good for about a .1 and 1mph too...most breakage occurs from wheel hop and I've never had my ET streets (cheater slicks) do it, they're also taller which helps again to absorb the launch...at your power levels you don't need a slick and shoudn't break anything even if it dead hooks b/c your stock clutch will slip first, but you can up the air pressure so the slick doesn't hook as hard...you also say you won't be launching over 3krpm(you can get away w/ that on street tires)...I'd consider ~4krpm, right where the torque curve really comes in, it'll keep you from bogging or having to feather the clutch(more wear and tear)
I'd agree with all this. Good post.
I went from the bias ply ET streets to M/T drag radials as I got tired of trailering up the bias ply tires all the time. I drive up on the drag radials. And, as I didn't have skinnys up front, the wobbly feeling at the big end got a little scary - I realized if someone came at me from the other lane, my handling was compromised. Forget that.
Plus the 17" M/T dr's are over an inch shorter which gave me .1 to .2 consistently due to the gearing advantage.
Wheel hop is your enemy...I don't get it with the drag radials at 18 to 20 psi. I've seen several rears break at the track....most on street tires wheel hopping.
if you want the best 60, in general a full slick is always going to be your best bet, especially if the track isn't prepper perfectly
if you could squeeze a 15" wheel with a big fat drag radial, that may not be too bad though, but i'm not sure what size wheels work on these cars as i haven't attempted slicks with them as of yet
I did this research 16 inch hits the caliper Will work with some modification 17 or 18 work best
Mike
if you're speaking strictly of a track tire...the slick is gonna be your best bet b/c it actually absorbs some of the driveline shock...be sure to run skinnies up front as it gets a little wobbly on the big end w/o them, they're good for about a .1 and 1mph too...most breakage occurs from wheel hop and I've never had my ET streets (cheater slicks) do it, they're also taller which helps again to absorb the launch...at your power levels you don't need a slick and shoudn't break anything even if it dead hooks b/c your stock clutch will slip first, but you can up the air pressure so the slick doesn't hook as hard...you also say you won't be launching over 3krpm(you can get away w/ that on street tires)...I'd consider ~4krpm, right where the torque curve really comes in, it'll keep you from bogging or having to feather the clutch(more wear and tear)
I went from the bias ply ET streets to M/T drag radials as I got tired of trailering up the bias ply tires all the time. I drive up on the drag radials. And, as I didn't have skinnys up front, the wobbly feeling at the big end got a little scary - I realized if someone came at me from the other lane, my handling was compromised. Forget that.
Plus the 17" M/T dr's are over an inch shorter which gave me .1 to .2 consistently due to the gearing advantage.
Wheel hop is your enemy...I don't get it with the drag radials at 18 to 20 psi. I've seen several rears break at the track....most on street tires wheel hopping.
Good info Joe!!
This Is a good guy to listen to. Hes very fast and know his stuff!
I agree 100%
Mike
Joe,I'll be using Nitto 555r's{335/30/18} with Nitto 555 {255/35/18}front,,how's that set-up?
Thanks
First, Mike, thanks for the compliment! I give what I get from this forum. It's a great forum.
Radials to radials is great - bias to radial is a little scary (but lots of guys do it, just not me anymore).
The 555's, in my OPINION (I've never had them but my buddy has), are great for a car driven on the street mostly. They are better than street tires by a mile on the track....but they're not nearly as good as a M/T drag radial on the strip. The M/T's on the other hand, are drivable on the street, but they wear out FAST on the street and they are a little wobbly for my taste. Lane changes are sometimes fun if there's ruts in the road...two hands on the wheel is sometimes called for.
If street is your priority, they are a great choice. I'd choose them for that if I ever decide to run DR's all the time. If you want to work your way down the c6 drag racing fast list, they are not the best choice.
I had Nitto 555r's on my C5. They are the best solution if you drive to the track. If you want to haul tires, then get a set of Mickey Tees & put them on there. If you have more than 500 hp, then get slicks. That's my expirence & opinion.
I "do" have a set of M/T 345/35/18's on order from Summit since 4 months now!
I am mostly on the street,but would rather not "trailer" tires to the track,but I think M/T's should be fine to drive on the highway at 70mph or so to the track!
I "do" have a set of M/T 345/35/18's on order from Summit since 4 months now!
I am mostly on the street,but would rather not "trailer" tires to the track,but I think M/T's should be fine to drive on the highway at 70mph or so to the track!
70 LOL try 170 I have been 180+ with 295 35 18 and 265 40 18 BFGs at ~30psi heck the fast guys hit 160+ in the 1/4 with DR's and slicks all the time.
I drove with my DR's for 4,000 miles with 30psi it feels like any other NON runflat.
I went from the bias ply ET streets to M/T drag radials as I got tired of trailering up the bias ply tires all the time. I drive up on the drag radials. And, as I didn't have skinnys up front, the wobbly feeling at the big end got a little scary - I realized if someone came at me from the other lane, my handling was compromised. Forget that.
Plus the 17" M/T dr's are over an inch shorter which gave me .1 to .2 consistently due to the gearing advantage.
Wheel hop is your enemy...I don't get it with the drag radials at 18 to 20 psi. I've seen several rears break at the track....most on street tires wheel hopping.
Are you running MT ET Street treaded Drag Radials, Yes? I dont see on the MT site a true drag radial slick (no tread) in 17" size.