This writeup is for a C6 vette.. I acquired a used bap from a cobra friend that is converting over to a vette. It is the 40 amp version. I purchased a Racetronix harness for around $75.00 shipped to my door. The Racetronix harness is BAP ready but comes with no instructions. When I looked for instructions on hooking this stuff up I found drawings that were not very helpful so I decided to do this write-up.
Heres the Bap

Racetronix harness (says its made for C5 but works fine with C6)

First you want to remove the safety clip to allow the connector to be unplugged

Next, I cut the ground, red, red with fuse to approx 15 inches long
The fused Red wire on the bap needed to be prepped by sliding the blue watertight seal on it, then strip the insulation a ½ inch or so. Then look on the harness for the larger red wire with the plug you disconnected. (relay side) Match up the center connector (male/female), then crimp and solder the connector on. Then slide the crimped and soldered wire into the plastic connector. Connect this side of the BAP to the harness. If everything connects smooth, slide the green locking clip in to lock in the connection.

Repeat the above step for the last connection. It should be the red wire on the BAP that does not have a fuse on it. It should go on the connector side (fuel pump side) on the harness.
Your harness should now look like this

Install a Ring terminal on the end of the ground wire. I crimped and soldered mine. I also passed it into the loom and cut it to length with the other relay ground to make it look better
Disconnect your battery leads before starting this project.
Next, jack your car up on driver side and secure the car. Remove the wheel. Next you will need a small socket set and a clip removal tool. Remove all small screws holding the inner fender well in. Unclip the few clips and everything falls into place. Remove the foam insulation back (mine fell out when fender was removed). Your car should look like this.

Locate the plugs for the fuel pump that look like this

Remove the two gray safety clips with a small screwdriver.
Plug the harness plugs into your factory wire harness and it should look like this.

I used a wire wheel on a drill to get a good ground. I then installed the ground for the BAP and relay (harness). I used a self tapping screw (not included with kit) to secure the ground. I then sprayed the metal to treat it from rusting later on.

I removed the factory ground above the one I just made and screwed the relay down. Tbe relay does not need to be grounded. The ground looking strap is only to attach it to something.
Next I took (4) stainless steel self taping screws (not included in kit) and I screwed the BAP to the car. I put it in a spot that had dynomat like coating to help with vibration. You should never need to access the BAP. They last a long time.
I then started tie wrapping wires back to clean up the install. I decided the run the controller wire and hobbs (pressure switch) inside the car. For you guys with blowers, you will want to run the pressure switch to a vacuum line. (I will show where to run it when we run the alt wire for the harness) I am running mine off the main nitrous switch for my car. That way when I stage I enable the nitrous and the BAP kicks on. After I make a pass, I flip the main switch off. The BAP will only run for around a minute or so.


I opened the hatch and removed the roof holder bracket from the driver side. It pops off with no tools. I then pulled the carpet back.

From inside the fender well, I drilled a ½ hole under the grommet that was already there for the gas tank cable. I installed a 5/8 rubber grommet and sealed it with silicone. I then ran my pressure wire and BAP controller wire thru it. If you have a blower, only run the controller wire thru this grommet.

Tie wrap the wires to the gas lid cable.

I then took a 6 foot glow rod that is used to run cable into walls and ran it thru the opening at the bottom of the side skirt. Tape the alt wire (and pressure wire if you are going FI).

Catch the glow rod in the front and give it a tug. It should come out in front by the front skirt. Take the glow rod and pass it into the engine bay. I then took a small drillbit and drilled two small holes in the front skirt and tie wrapped the wire to hold it in place. Do not tighten the tire wraps all the way yet. You will need to secure the slack in the side skirt.

Disconnect the lead from your alternator. Connect the harness O-ring and the O-ring you removed and secure them back down.


Put battery terminals back on battery and your are ready to go

 

Great write-up and great pics. Lets keep the DIY stuff coming.

The racetronics harness alone makes things a bit better in that the heavy guage direct from the battery avoids voltage drop and adds a bit more to the stock set-up. People with high HP applications should consider the harness a must.

 

I forgot to ask....does this void the warranty

 

Lol, yes.

Nice write up. Did the same thing except I left my controller in the rear compartment in the hatch. I figure once its set I don't need to mess with it.

 

Not at all

 

Thanks. I will probably leave mine in the hatch too.