Okay so ive had my car a week and have located this issue. Ive read the information in the FAQ section but am still a little confused as to the steps to take. Do I get all these parts and throw my car on a lift and get to work or will a dealer take care of this? Do i order and pay for all the parts?

 

Vin # 03508

 

I am sure you know what you are taking about, but what about your audience?

If you are talking about the loose crank shaft bolt, and failed serpentine belt, I would have the dealer do the repair.

Also when stating the VIN, you should state the last 8 digits of the VIN.



Service Information 2005 Chevrolet Corvette | Corvette (VIN Y) Service Manual | Document ID: 1770973
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

#05-06-01-001D: Check Gages Light, Battery Voltage Low, Accessory Drive Belt Slipping or Missing (Install New Crankshaft Balancer with POA Friction Washer) - (Feb 24, 2006)


Subject: Check Gages Light, Battery Voltage Low, Accessory Drive Belt Slipping or Missing (Install New Crankshaft Balancer with POA Friction Washer)


Models: 2005 Chevrolet Corvette

with 6.0L Engine (VIN U - RPO LS2)

Built Prior to VIN Breakpoint 55111039




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to update the Parts Information and include information on the new POA friction washer in the Service Procedure. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-01-001C(Section 6 -- Engine).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
Some customers may comment on the Check Gages Light or the Battery Voltage Low indicator coming on. Additionally, some customers may comment on the accessory drive belt either slipping or being missing.

Cause
The crankshaft balancer bolt may have become loose.

Correction
Install the new crankshaft balancer with POA friction washer and a new crankshaft balancer bolt using the following procedure:

Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.



Remove the air duct (6).



Remove the radiator support.



Remove the accessory drive belt.



Disconnect the generator.



Remove the generator bolts and generator.



Disconnect the steering intermediate shaft at the steering gear.
Install the engine support swivel brackets( J 42451-1). Two swivel brackets are needed OR install engine support swivel brackets (SPX 7100) which come as a set.
Hoist the vehicle.
Remove the front wheels.
Loosen the motor mounts.



Install the leaf spring fixture (J 33432-A).



Disconnect the tie rods (5) from the steering knuckle (4).
Disconnect the speed sensor.



Remove the lower ball joint nut and disconnect the lower control arm from the knuckle.
Disconnect the bottom shock absorber bolts.
Disconnect the ABS module bracket bolts.



Disconnect the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp bracket bolts and shaft.
Disconnect the cooler line bolts to the engine cradle.
Install a suitable jack under the cradle.
Remove the cradle nuts.
Lower the cradle.



Remove the A/C belt.



Disconnect and remove the starter.



Install the flywheel holding fixture J 42386-A.



Remove the cooling fan bolts and fan assembly.



Scribe or mark balancer orientation.



Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt (139). Do not discard the crankshaft balancer bolt. The balancer bolt will be used during the balancer installation procedure.



Use the J 41816 (1) and the J 41816-2 (2) in order to remove the crankshaft balancer.
Place the old and new balancers on the bench and orient them the same way (i.e. face up with a weight balance hole at 12 o'clock). Scribe/mark the new balancer in the same location as the old balancer. Do not transfer weight pins on manual transmission equipped vehicles. Most vehicles will be balanced without the use of any additional weight pins. Because some balancers may have spun on the crankshaft, transferring weight pins to the same position would produce a random imbalance.
Inspect for the following conditions:
• Metal transfer to the crank post. Replace the crankshaft if metal has been transferred to it or it is damaged.

• Metal transfer or damage to the timing chain sprocket face. Replace the sprocket if either condition is present.

• Verify that the bolt does not bottom out in the crank post.





Install the new POA friction washer onto the back of the new crankshaft balancer by hand. Refer to the illustration, item 1, for proper installation.
Install the new balancer paying attention to line up the scribe mark.



Use the J 41665 and the J 41478 in order to install the balancer. Note that the threaded rod in the illustration above is from J 41478, Front Oil Seal Installer.
34.1. Assemble the J 41478 threaded rod, nut, washer and installer. Insert the smaller end of the J 41665 installer into the front of the balancer.

34.2. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.

34.3. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft.

34.4. Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool. Position the larger end of the installer against the front of the balancer.

34.5. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.

34.6. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is installed onto the crankshaft.

34.7. Remove the balancer installation tool.

Notice: Failure to apply proper torque to the old balancer bolt may result in the balancer not being fully seated. This could lead to failure of this joint in the future.

Install the old balancer bolt and tighten.
Tighten
Tighten the old balancer bolt to 330N·m(240 ft. lb).

Important: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore.





Remove the old bolt and measure the hub to crankshaft distance.
Coat the three to five threads of the new bolt with thread locker (LOCKTITE™ 272) P/N 12345493 (in Canada, 10953488) before installation.
Notice: Be sure to follow the torque procedure for installing the new crankshaft bolt. Use of impact tools, or not using torque and angle method will result in joint failure.

Install and tighten the new crankshaft bolt.
• Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass.

Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50N·m (37 lb ft).

• Put a paint stripe on the bolt running from the 12 o'clock to the 6 o'clock position in order to verify the correct torque requested in the next step.


Important: When tightening for the second pass, a minimum torque of 320 N·m (236 lb ft) should be observed. If this torque is not achieved, the bolt should be replaced.


• Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass.

Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 45059.


Important: Recheck the position of the previously painted stripe to assure 140 degree rotation. Achieving the correct torque angle is critical to the success of this repair. Over-torquing or under-torquing the joint will result in an unsatisfactory repair.


Remove the J 42386-A Flywheel Holding Tool.
Install the starter and bolts. Tighten the starter bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the starter bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

Important: Orient the purple lead wire to the 10 o'clock position when installing.





Connect the starter wiring.
Install the starter motor S terminal washer and purple lead wire (1).
Install the S terminal nut (2) and tighten.
Tighten
Tighten the S terminal nut to 4 N·m (35 lb in).

Important: Orient the gray and rust harness leads to the 6 o'clock and 7 o'clock position.

Install the gray and rust harness leads to the solenoid.
Raise and align the cradle.
Install and tighten the cradle nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts, using hand tools only, to 110 N·m(81 lb ft).

Install and tighten the engine mount nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 65 N·m(48 lb ft).

Install the A/C belt.
Install the cooler line bolts.
Install the fan shroud assembly and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 5 N·m(44 lb in).

Position the stabilizer shaft and install insulator clamps and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp bolts to 58N·m (43 lb ft).

Install the tie rod to the steering knuckle.
Install the outer tie rod end stud nut to the outer tie rod end stud and tighten .
Tighten
Tighten the outer tie rod end stud nut to 20 N·m(15 lb ft) to seat the stud.

53.1. Turn the nut an additional 160 degrees.

53.2. Check for the outer tie rod end stud nut for a minimum final torque of 45 N·m(33 lb ft).

Install the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle.
54.1. Tighten the lower control arm ball joint stud nut.

Tighten
Tighten the nut to 20 N·m (15 lb ft) to seat the ball joint stud.

54.2. Turn the ball joint stud nut an additional 210 degrees.

54.3. Check the ball joint stud nut for a minimum final torque of 55 N·m (41 lb ft).

Install the shock bolts and tighten.
Tighten
Tighten the shock absorber lower mounting nuts to 28 N·m (21 lb ft).

Repeat tie rod, lower ball joint and shock for the other side.
Install the tires and lug nuts.



Important: Tighten the nuts evenly and alternately in order to avoid excessive run out of the tire and wheel assembly.

Using the J 39544-KIT , tighten the wheel nuts in the appropriate sequence shown.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts in sequence to 140 N·m(100 lb ft).

Remove the support jack.
Remove the Leaf Spring Compressor (J 33432-A).
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the engine support swivel brackets.
Install the upper radiator support and tighten the bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 9 N·m (80 lb in).

Install the coolant and EVAP lines to the fan shroud.
Install the engine cover and oil fill cap.
Install the intermediate shaft.
LOCTITE™ the steering intermediate shaft bolts and install.
Tighten
Tighten the lower coupling retaining bolt to 34 N·m (25 lb ft).

Install the generator and tighten the bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the generator bolts to 50 N·m(37 lb ft).

Connect the generator wiring.
Tighten
Tighten the battery feed cable nut to 13 N·m(10 lb ft).

Install the new accessory belt.
Install the air duct and box.
Connect the battery cable to the battery.
Perform a crankshaft variation relearn procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

12557840
Bolt, Crankshaft Balancer
1

12598831
Balancer, Crankshaft w/ POA Friction Washer
1

12579229
Belt, Water Pump, Power Steering and Generator
1 as req'd

12579228
Belt, Air Conditioning Compressor
1 as req'd


Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

J0720
Pulley, Crankshaft Balancer - Replace
4.6 hrs

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© 2008 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.

 

The first 11,039 cars produced in 2005 did not have a Diamond Embedded Washer fit to the crank pulley bolt. There was apparently an alignment error in one of the torque machines used to assemble the bolt, so an unknown quantity of LS2 motors left the Canadian assembly plant without the crank pulley bolt being properly torqued. GM does not know how many motors were affected, nor can they tell which cars got those motors.

The majority of motors were fine, but enough had the bolts loosen that GM had to issue a TSB which called for the installation of the DEW. Some dealers were willing to do this as a preventative measure, simply noting that "customer complains of belt noise" on the work order, while others refused to do it unless the bolt actually backed out causing a catastrophic failure.

Your car appears to be in the affected range, if it is in fact a 2005 build. You might want to mark the position of the bolt with a dab of paint so that, if it starts to move, you might be able to see it before it backs out. You might also try to find a dealer you is willing to perform the TSB under warranty. On my 2005, I had my dealer perform the TSB before any sign of failure.

GM claims that almost all failures on early build 2005 cars occurred before 2,000 miles, and that if you have more than 2,000 miles on your car you should be safe. Unfortunately, cases of failures on higher mileage cars have been reported on this board, so that's not a guarantee.

 

If your VIN is in the affected range, I would contact your dealership and see what they say. Not all vehicles in affected range suffered from this problem and I'm not sure this was ever elevated to a full blown recall. Is your 2005 still under warranty? More importantly, is your harmonic balancer walking?

Why GM went to the press-fit damper I'll never know. IMO GM should have stuck with the tried and true keyed approach used successfully on about 100 million small block Chevy engines since 1955. There was never a problem.

All of the Gen III and Gen IV V8 engines use a press-fit damper with no keyway. This has been the case since the LS1 was introduced in 1997.

GM's 'fix' for the 2005 Corvette was the diamond embedded friction washer which became a production part in the 2006 LS2 and LS7 (and I suspect in late model 2005 C6's as well). If you have an early 2005 crank pulley you may need to replace the entire pulley. You will also need two torque-to-yield bolts...I believe the first bolt is torqued to 240 lbs, backed-out and the second bolt is then used at a lesser torque value (which I don't recall without checking the service manual). If you pull your harmonic balancer you cannot re-use the special torque-to-yield bolt(s)...always use new ones.

Even if you're not having a problem with your early 2005 I feel it would be wise to make sure you have the post 2005 crank-pulley and see that everything is torqued to specs. A gram of prevention is worth a kilo of cure (go metric).

 

My car has 43k on the clock, the harmonic balancer is walking, im throwing the a/c belt because the balancer is out of line. My car has this problem and it hasnt been addressed properly. I can do this myself with a friend who has had many vettes, two lifts and all necessary equipment, the question is do i need to do it or is it possible a dealer would help out such a high mileage car bought used. Also who do I contact about parts ill need, any dealer...

 

Go to the "Search" bar at the top of this menu (In red) and copy then paste this number: #05-06-01-001D There is plenty of info out there on this issue for early production 05' C6's. IMHO this fix should be done by a qualified Corvette tech with a 4 wheel alignment to follow, which is not addressed in the bulletin. Negotiate a price with a GM Service Rep, it may even be still covered, in full, regardless of age and/or mileage, Good Luck!

 

I wouldn't try this job by myself, unless I had the help of a very experienced and competent mechanic. BTW, the car has to be aligned after the fix.

Before you do anything, check with GM to see if they'll still do the work under the TSB.

 

Thanks guys, any reputable dealer in the houston area off hand?

 

And if the Dealership Service Rep does not give you satisfaction, keep going up the GM food chain. The dealership should be able to give you contact numbers. You could even call Bowling Green Plant. Believe me this issue has had top level attention by GM.

 

I know this threads almost a year old but what came of this? My car has 46,000 and the balancer has a noticable "wobble" I plan to perform this TSB, (replace the balancer and bolt) but I was curious if the dealer helped you out any with an out-of-warranty car. My VIN is after the one listed in the TSB.

55124338

 

I have a '07 and my balancer was wobbling a lot causing loud squeeking noises. GM finally decided to replace it along with new bolts. My question is, should they have done a alignment on my car because it certainly has not been indicated on my invoice. My car has always had a steering wheel that needs to be turned a little to the left in order for the car to drive straight. When I asked if this could be fixed, they said I needed a alignment and it would cost $100 or something. Since I now had my balancer replaced under warranty, should I expect the alignment to be done under warranty for free now?

 

There could well be a hidden extended warranty per GM on this. Be real nice, do a favor or pay off someone down at your dealer, and it might just happen.
I just had mine done a short time ago on my extended warranty at 21K miles.

 

Yes, the alignment is part of the fix since the front end is dropped during the procedure. I don't think they could have done the TSB without doing an alignment though.

 

Well my steering wheel still points to the left a little while going straight. If they did do an alignment, they didn't care about straightening that out. Do you think I should bring this up to be fixed? They're probably going to say you should have told us about this before but I had no idea they would do an alignment for the balancer fix. I would imagine they will still make me pay especially for a "cosmetic" fix such as making the steering wheel appear straight while going straight.

 

If it's off just slightly, I'd leave it alone. It's not uncommon for the wheel to be off a bit. If it's off enough to be a problem, then just have it taken care. You could always tell your dealer that the wheel was off center when you got it back.