header install on LS3
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 457
Likes: 1
From: Lawrenceville Georgia
header install on LS3
Is the header install the same on an LS3 as compared to an LS1/LS6? I installed headers on my C5Z previously and it was relatively easy. It was a lot of work however it was not difficult. I have a set of Kooks that should be at my doorstep today and plan on starting the install today. Is there anything I should be aware of before hand?
Thanks,
Shaun
Thanks,
Shaun
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 18
From: Montgomery Il.
i have a set ready to install but haven't had the time. two vendors have said the same thing and that is do not use the Kooks gaskets that came with the headers either reuse the stock gaskets or buy the GM OEM's.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 457
Likes: 1
From: Lawrenceville Georgia
Thats good info.. Thanks. Anyone else have tips, or info that would be useful to this installation. I am going to go by the C5 install how to guide on ls1howto.com unless anyone has a better suggestion. It worked fine on my LS6 however that engine is almost identical to the LS1 whereas the C6 LS3 is going to be different I am sure.
Thanks,
Shaun
Thanks,
Shaun
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 18
From: Montgomery Il.
the Kooks come with instructions. another thing that was recommended to me was to install MSD or the like spark plug wires b/c they have better heat insulation around the wires they also recommended new spark plugs.
Pro
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 610
Likes: 1
From: Midland Texas
St. Jude Donor '09-'11
Easiest header install there is. Should be the same as on the LS2. Clean the bolt threads really well and also the threads in the head and use some anti-seize on them. Use GM gaskets. Remove spark plugs if you are clumsy like me. Buy a slotted O2 sensor socket to remove the stock sensors if you don't have one, wrench alone won't do. Be very careful to get the O2 sensor extensions and connectors protected from the heat.
You don't have to remove anything but the stock exhaust system parts. Don't mess with the alternator, starter, nothing, except the spark plugs and maybe the dip stick, can't remember and too lazy to go look. Do a search in this forum, lots of threads about it, some even specific to the Kooks, I think. I've done several sets of LG on LS2 cars.
You don't have to remove anything but the stock exhaust system parts. Don't mess with the alternator, starter, nothing, except the spark plugs and maybe the dip stick, can't remember and too lazy to go look. Do a search in this forum, lots of threads about it, some even specific to the Kooks, I think. I've done several sets of LG on LS2 cars.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 457
Likes: 1
From: Lawrenceville Georgia
That is awesome to hear. I started the install last night. Just pulled the coils, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. I was planning on doing more but the girlfriend was ready to go to dinner so I got interrupted. I will probably do more tonight and finish on Friday. I am glad to hear the alternator doesn't need to be removed.. I did try to remove it last night however the belt tensioner is different than the C5 and I was curious how to unload the pressure off of it.
Thanks guys,
Shaun
Thanks guys,
Shaun
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,578
Likes: 61
From: Austin TX
Use PB Blaster on the O2 sensors for easy removal.
Just make sure you don't contaminate the O2 sensors or even touch the sensor. If necessary, spray the sensor with brake clean to clean any contamination.
Just make sure you don't contaminate the O2 sensors or even touch the sensor. If necessary, spray the sensor with brake clean to clean any contamination.
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Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 20,933
Likes: 906
From: salem OR
That is awesome to hear. I started the install last night. Just pulled the coils, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. I was planning on doing more but the girlfriend was ready to go to dinner so I got interrupted. I will probably do more tonight and finish on Friday. I am glad to hear the alternator doesn't need to be removed.. I did try to remove it last night however the belt tensioner is different than the C5 and I was curious how to unload the pressure off of it.
Thanks guys,
Shaun
Thanks guys,
Shaun
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 457
Likes: 1
From: Lawrenceville Georgia
OK.. I finished installing my headers this morning. Overall I consider this a fairly easy install. It was MUCH easier than the header install on my C5Z06. The engine did not have to be raised up at all.. and both headers installed through the bottom. One very useful tip was to clean the threads on the header bolts. That made the bolts much easier to thread into the head. I am very happy to have this complete.
Thanks guys.
Shaun
Thanks guys.
Shaun
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 457
Likes: 1
From: Lawrenceville Georgia
Nah, you definitely don't have to use the kooks bolts. The stock bolts are M8x1.25 though, so I just went and got a nut that I could use to clean the threads with. The stock bolts had some odd type of anti seize on them from the factory that kept them from threading into the head smoothly. So once I removed that with the nut, they threaded in very easily.
Thanks,
Shaun
Thanks,
Shaun
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 457
Likes: 1
From: Lawrenceville Georgia
The bottom of the car was about 14-18" off the ground. The front of the car was on jackstands and the rear was on floor ramps. It really was an easy installation. Like the above person mentioned, the coil packs did not even need to be removed. Here are the tools needed:
3/8" and 1/2" ratchet
10mm shallow socket
13mm deep and shallow sockets
15mm deep and shallow sockets
18mm socket (if you have to remove your rear sway bar for manipulating the over axle exhaust)
o2 sensor socket (this is a MUST have to get the O2 sensors out of the manifolds)
spark plug socket
various extensions, 2", 8", and at least a 14"
pair of floor ramps for the rear
pair of jack stands for the front
No, I did not install a thermal blanket or tunnel plate.
3/8" and 1/2" ratchet
10mm shallow socket
13mm deep and shallow sockets
15mm deep and shallow sockets
18mm socket (if you have to remove your rear sway bar for manipulating the over axle exhaust)
o2 sensor socket (this is a MUST have to get the O2 sensors out of the manifolds)
spark plug socket
various extensions, 2", 8", and at least a 14"
pair of floor ramps for the rear
pair of jack stands for the front
No, I did not install a thermal blanket or tunnel plate.
