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get her to about 150, that way by the time you do your burnout your around 160-170 perfect for a run
Yea well tell that to my buddy I was racing...he'd left his fan on for about 15 minutes in the lanes with the car not running. It started for the first time we moved up in the lanes, then he shut it off, then it wouldn't start when it was time to run! Luckily the track starter gave him a pop start and we made our run!
The fan in our C6 draws so much power that my car with underdrive pulley cannot get the voltage above 12 unless I rev the car to 1000 rpm. After my buddy had the no-start scenario I decided to not run the fan in the lanes.
It's still a good mod, as the C6 tune will not let you turn on the fan at all until 192, which means I was making the runs at 200+ here in the FL heat. So running 185 or so is just right for me. Frankly I don't do runs any cooler, I like to have normal operating temp before I make a run.
When the battery died, was it because the fan was left on HIGH? That speed can cool a nuclear tower...Low speed is about half fan speed, uses much less power...maybe the thing to do is run it on low to achieve cool-down.
When the battery died, was it because the fan was left on HIGH? That speed can cool a nuclear tower...Low speed is about half fan speed, uses much less power...maybe the thing to do is run it on low to achieve cool-down.
I imagine it was on high...but it's not as strong as you think - if my car is idling it cannot get it cooler than 185 and if I rev it to 1000 to get my volts up to 14 it'll get up to 195. ON the highway it'll go down to 178 so the thermo isn't the factor, it's the wind.
I just got done installing mine, REALLY easy. Works great! Definately cools the car down quicker. Here is where I installed the switch.
I cant put it there as my car has a factory light that will tell you if the passenger air bag is off, & I also have my "Line-Loc" button exactly where your fan switch is... I'm thinking of mounting it IN the console but it gets awful HOT in there.. I hate to drill into the dash, my next choice might be someplace under the hood...
Me too! Great mod since our Ls2 computer will not turn on the fans below 192 even with HP tuners.
Are you aware you can manually turn on you fan at any temp using the HP Tuner VCM Scanning program. Open VCM Fan Control Display, Select "Fans", and turn Fan Speed ON and then select the fan speed you want. This works good for the track when you normally would have your laptop in the car.
Are you aware you can manually turn on you fan at any temp using the HP Tuner VCM Scanning program. Open VCM Fan Control Display, Select "Fans", and turn Fan Speed ON and then select the fan speed you want. This works good for the track when you normally would have your laptop in the car.
Honestly I have never seen my fan blow as fast as it does with the new hi/lo switch.
Are you aware you can manually turn on you fan at any temp using the HP Tuner VCM Scanning program. Open VCM Fan Control Display, Select "Fans", and turn Fan Speed ON and then select the fan speed you want. This works good for the track when you normally would have your laptop in the car.
Can you scan when you run the VCM controls on the LS2? I've never had any luck doing both but truth is I've only tried a couple of times.
Reason I say is I run the fan when going down the track with the switch - it really helps keep the temps steady at 185 if whom I'm racing burns down the tree or takes a long time fooling around with a burnout. If I used VCM controls I thought I'd have to turn them off to scan which is a hassle with a helmet on. The switch is easy.
Can you scan when you run the VCM controls on the LS2? I've never had any luck doing both but truth is I've only tried a couple of times.
Reason I say is I run the fan when going down the track with the switch - it really helps keep the temps steady at 185 if whom I'm racing burns down the tree or takes a long time fooling around with a burnout. If I used VCM controls I thought I'd have to turn them off to scan which is a hassle with a helmet on. The switch is easy.
Like Ob says, YES YOU CAN! I "connect", then "start scanning" (and use Gauge Display) and then mouse to the (display) VCM controls and turn on the fan (speed depends on ambient and water temp for me-usually 45% or 75%). You will get a Green light in the display when the fan is ON. DO NOT CLOSE the VCM window (otherwise it turns off the fan), rather, just click on the Gauge Display for it to become the main display and when you want to change fan speed or whatever, click on the VCM control display to make that the main/current display.
When you are done with the run, I just hit the spacebar to stop the log and then export it. Of course, you dont have to bother with the Gauge Display, you can just use the VCM display. The VCM fan control wont work on accessory mode, only ignition mode or with the engine running.
Also I wonder if a small light can be wired into it so when the fan is running the "little RED" light will be ON .. it will help us "Old Timers" to remember the fan is on in the staging lanes
Easily done. You need one resistor, 10K, and two LED's. You ground the resistor to the dash steel, put both LED's "cathodes" on the free end of the resistor.
Then simply wire both LED "anodes" to the outer ends of the switch. These terminals go to 12 volts when you select the switch position. When they go to 12 volts, the LED will light. You can probably put them wherever you want.
Easily done. You need one resistor, 10K, and two LED's. You ground the resistor to the dash steel, put both LED's "cathodes" on the free end of the resistor.
Then simply wire both LED "anodes" to the outer ends of the switch. These terminals go to 12 volts when you select the switch position. When they go to 12 volts, the LED will light. You can probably put them wherever you want.
GREAT thanks... I had a small light on my 96 but that was straight forward, didn't have to go through the computer etc.. just wired a relay to the hot wore from the battery directly to the fan..
Doh! I screwed up, said "10K" resistor, I meant 1K resistor. That will make the LED's real bright and easy to see in the daylight. 10K won't be very bright.