Wheel Hop
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 82
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From: Pennington NJ
Wheel Hop
2008 C6 Convertable Procharger Cooks 1-7/8 LT Headers Hi Flo Cats.
Having Problems With Wheel Hop 1st & 2nd Gear From 30 MPH In 1st And 40 MPH in 2nd. Any Sugestions Would Help.
Thanks for all the sugestions
Having Problems With Wheel Hop 1st & 2nd Gear From 30 MPH In 1st And 40 MPH in 2nd. Any Sugestions Would Help.
Thanks for all the sugestions
Last edited by Ron Cannella; Oct 18, 2008 at 06:59 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 11
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
What tires and at what pressure?
I'm making 597whp/518wtq so wheelspin is guaranteed in 1st and 2nd and some times 3rd if the tires are cold (PS2 tires). Wheelhop, however, only happens sometimes and also seems to depend on tire temps as well. I am starting to wonder if some of what I think is wheelhop is actually the drivetrain bouncing on it's soft rubber mounts?
I'm making 597whp/518wtq so wheelspin is guaranteed in 1st and 2nd and some times 3rd if the tires are cold (PS2 tires). Wheelhop, however, only happens sometimes and also seems to depend on tire temps as well. I am starting to wonder if some of what I think is wheelhop is actually the drivetrain bouncing on it's soft rubber mounts?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,891
Likes: 1
From: NJ..."the way I saw it, everyone takes a beating sometimes."
What tires and at what pressure?
I'm making 597whp/518wtq so wheelspin is guaranteed in 1st and 2nd and some times 3rd if the tires are cold (PS2 tires). Wheelhop, however, only happens sometimes and also seems to depend on tire temps as well. I am starting to wonder if some of what I think is wheelhop is actually the drivetrain bouncing on it's soft rubber mounts?
I'm making 597whp/518wtq so wheelspin is guaranteed in 1st and 2nd and some times 3rd if the tires are cold (PS2 tires). Wheelhop, however, only happens sometimes and also seems to depend on tire temps as well. I am starting to wonder if some of what I think is wheelhop is actually the drivetrain bouncing on it's soft rubber mounts?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,891
Likes: 1
From: NJ..."the way I saw it, everyone takes a beating sometimes."
I don't know if this was the exact post I was looking for but it contains good information non-the-less.
Originally Posted by DynoTech Engineering
The DTE Differential Strut was *never* designed to correct a axle-tramp condition, as that is a function of suspension/driveline wind-up and deflection, which entirely different altogether... The differential strut was however, designed to provide structural strength to a few targeted areas of the driveline, for which it does exceptionally well.
We've been preaching this before in *many* threads in the past- there is no silver-bullet, one-part-fixes-all component that will correct wheel hop, but rather a combination of a number of small, but critical upgrades that will eliminate it entirely....every time.
1. Coil over shocks with adjustable rebound/compression
2. Correct ride height
3. Correct dynamically adjusted wheel alignment
4. Correct tires (and no...."20's" will not cut it with that thin tire side wall...)
5. Correct tire pressure
6. Polyurethane suspension bushings
We've done all of the above to quite a few of the cars we build here that frequent the drag strips and not a single one of them ever has wheel hop again...ever. It takes a lot of work to perform all of this and it's not as glamorous as adding power, but fixing broken driveline parts over-and-over-and-over again due to wheel hop isn't fun/cheap either. Pick your poison..
Most folks never do all of the above at once, but rather try to cheap-out and only just do a couple of them to "save money" or because they "don't think they need to do anymore" than what they've done. Then those folks are always scratching their heads later when their car still wheel-hops anyway, or they say, "it only wheel-hops a little bit". *Any* car that wheel-hops, even a "little bit" is far too much, as it *will* fracture the driveline eventually...
The only way to secure driveline durability over time is to *completely* eliminate wheel-hop altogether. There are no "gray areas" and even a "little" is too much.....
HTH's
Best Regards,
DTE
We've been preaching this before in *many* threads in the past- there is no silver-bullet, one-part-fixes-all component that will correct wheel hop, but rather a combination of a number of small, but critical upgrades that will eliminate it entirely....every time.
1. Coil over shocks with adjustable rebound/compression
2. Correct ride height
3. Correct dynamically adjusted wheel alignment
4. Correct tires (and no...."20's" will not cut it with that thin tire side wall...)
5. Correct tire pressure
6. Polyurethane suspension bushings
We've done all of the above to quite a few of the cars we build here that frequent the drag strips and not a single one of them ever has wheel hop again...ever. It takes a lot of work to perform all of this and it's not as glamorous as adding power, but fixing broken driveline parts over-and-over-and-over again due to wheel hop isn't fun/cheap either. Pick your poison..
Most folks never do all of the above at once, but rather try to cheap-out and only just do a couple of them to "save money" or because they "don't think they need to do anymore" than what they've done. Then those folks are always scratching their heads later when their car still wheel-hops anyway, or they say, "it only wheel-hops a little bit". *Any* car that wheel-hops, even a "little bit" is far too much, as it *will* fracture the driveline eventually...
The only way to secure driveline durability over time is to *completely* eliminate wheel-hop altogether. There are no "gray areas" and even a "little" is too much.....
HTH's
Best Regards,
DTE
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 23
In the ZR1 GM installed different diameter axles for the left and right sides to eliminate wheel hop. I guess the jury is still out on that but I'm sure it worked.
This is a thread that I started in the C6Z section about the Zr1 shafts before I knew about the differences. I just wanted to see if they were the same size as the z06 but stronger so I could swap them out if I wanted to. Some posts in it explain the reason for the different diameters.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...978&highlight=
It doesn't help you out much but I think the repost of the Dynotech Engineering post by k0bun has some good advice and not terribly expensive.
This is a thread that I started in the C6Z section about the Zr1 shafts before I knew about the differences. I just wanted to see if they were the same size as the z06 but stronger so I could swap them out if I wanted to. Some posts in it explain the reason for the different diameters.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...978&highlight=
It doesn't help you out much but I think the repost of the Dynotech Engineering post by k0bun has some good advice and not terribly expensive.
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Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 190
Likes: 1
From: NJ
This may be a cheap way out When was the last time your car had
a 4 wheel alignment???
alot of times even from the factory they are way off.
Mine was a complete disaster. Zero wheel hop after the alignment.
I lowered the the car too. With the power you have you should be driving around with DRs all the time. That alone will cure wheel hop
Mike
a 4 wheel alignment???
alot of times even from the factory they are way off.
Mine was a complete disaster. Zero wheel hop after the alignment.
I lowered the the car too. With the power you have you should be driving around with DRs all the time. That alone will cure wheel hop
Mike
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,642
Likes: 9
From: Dalllas/Ft Worth Area TX
ZR1 "squats" on WOT!
[QUOTE=walterm32;1567515418]In the ZR1 GM installed different diameter axles for the left and right sides to eliminate wheel hop. ...QUOTE]Yes, BUT they ALSO wrote a program for the rear end to "squat" on WOT with the magnetic shocks.
