Changing a thermostat.. Need help..
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
Changing a thermostat.. Need help..
I am going to get Chuck's (CoW) mail order tune but I need to change out the T-stat to a 160* one. What is the process to do this ? Do I need to drain the coolant first ? Any tips, tricks, or advice would be much appreciated. 
Thanks
Please try and be as detailed as possible. I looked up the DIY in FAQ's but it's too general.
ThanksPlease try and be as detailed as possible. I looked up the DIY in FAQ's but it's too general.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 1
From: Lake Delton (WI Dells) WI
there really isn't anything to it.
I just drained the radiator completely using the petcock valve (to keep antifreeze from spilling everywhere) and then loosen the two bolts holding the thermostat housing to the block. Remove the old one, put the new one back in taking note of the proper fitment of the rubber seal within the housing. Tighten back up and refill. I filled my reservoir very slowly to allow any air to escape.
I just drained the radiator completely using the petcock valve (to keep antifreeze from spilling everywhere) and then loosen the two bolts holding the thermostat housing to the block. Remove the old one, put the new one back in taking note of the proper fitment of the rubber seal within the housing. Tighten back up and refill. I filled my reservoir very slowly to allow any air to escape.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 781
Likes: 82
From: MA
A simple install.
1) Start with a cool engine, why do it hot?
2) Raise front end high enough to place a large drain pan beneath car, you can drain radiator or you can loosen t-stat housing (10mm IIRC) & enough coolant will drain out to do job. You do not have to remove any hoses. Remove pan when thru draining, lower car.
3) R&R t-stat with new 160 t-stat, be sure to orient the tab on rubber gasket properly w/housing - if not it will leak.
4) Tighten t-stat evenly, the housing does not need to be Gorilla tight but snug (a precise technical term).
5) Refill radiator expansion tank, don't tighten cap, start engine, let idle, watch expansion tank and refill as necessary. You can raise rpm to 2000 rpm to bring engine to operating temp sooner, checking coolant level a few times. Take a short ride to get temps up, then recheck coolant and you're good to go.
6) Enjoy your new Chuck CoW tune and t-stat.
Good luck, Joe
1) Start with a cool engine, why do it hot?
2) Raise front end high enough to place a large drain pan beneath car, you can drain radiator or you can loosen t-stat housing (10mm IIRC) & enough coolant will drain out to do job. You do not have to remove any hoses. Remove pan when thru draining, lower car.
3) R&R t-stat with new 160 t-stat, be sure to orient the tab on rubber gasket properly w/housing - if not it will leak.
4) Tighten t-stat evenly, the housing does not need to be Gorilla tight but snug (a precise technical term).
5) Refill radiator expansion tank, don't tighten cap, start engine, let idle, watch expansion tank and refill as necessary. You can raise rpm to 2000 rpm to bring engine to operating temp sooner, checking coolant level a few times. Take a short ride to get temps up, then recheck coolant and you're good to go.
6) Enjoy your new Chuck CoW tune and t-stat.
Good luck, Joe
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,017
Likes: 2
A simple install.
1) Start with a cool engine, why do it hot?
2) Raise front end high enough to place a large drain pan beneath car, you can drain radiator or you can loosen t-stat housing (10mm IIRC) & enough coolant will drain out to do job. You do not have to remove any hoses. Remove pan when thru draining, lower car.
3) R&R t-stat with new 160 t-stat, be sure to orient the tab on rubber gasket properly w/housing - if not it will leak.
4) Tighten t-stat evenly, the housing does not need to be Gorilla tight but snug (a precise technical term).
5) Refill radiator expansion tank, don't tighten cap, start engine, let idle, watch expansion tank and refill as necessary. You can raise rpm to 2000 rpm to bring engine to operating temp sooner, checking coolant level a few times. Take a short ride to get temps up, then recheck coolant and you're good to go.
6) Enjoy your new Chuck CoW tune and t-stat.
Good luck, Joe
1) Start with a cool engine, why do it hot?
2) Raise front end high enough to place a large drain pan beneath car, you can drain radiator or you can loosen t-stat housing (10mm IIRC) & enough coolant will drain out to do job. You do not have to remove any hoses. Remove pan when thru draining, lower car.
3) R&R t-stat with new 160 t-stat, be sure to orient the tab on rubber gasket properly w/housing - if not it will leak.
4) Tighten t-stat evenly, the housing does not need to be Gorilla tight but snug (a precise technical term).
5) Refill radiator expansion tank, don't tighten cap, start engine, let idle, watch expansion tank and refill as necessary. You can raise rpm to 2000 rpm to bring engine to operating temp sooner, checking coolant level a few times. Take a short ride to get temps up, then recheck coolant and you're good to go.
6) Enjoy your new Chuck CoW tune and t-stat.
Good luck, Joe
4) Tighten t-stat evenly, the housing does not need to be Gorilla tight but snug (a precise technical term). Torgue value for housing: Water Inlet hsng Bolts 15 N·m or 11 lb ft
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 491
Likes: 0
From: Ossining "Routine to Extreme"
First of all make sure you have the right application thermostat.
You got some pretty good advice here (racerx8)
It's always good to have a gallon of coolant handy, just in case you loose any.
When in doubt, you can always call Chuck CoW to help.
914-332-0049
FireEyes
You got some pretty good advice here (racerx8)
It's always good to have a gallon of coolant handy, just in case you loose any.
When in doubt, you can always call Chuck CoW to help.
914-332-0049
FireEyes
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 357
Likes: 2
From: San Diego ,CA, USA
Bleeding the system is simple. Shucks, hardest part was adding the coolant back in, the system bleed itself.
I'm not trying to mislead anyone. It's just that this is as simple as it gets. Much easier than changing my oil. Do you change your own oil? If you do then surely this is a walk in the park. (half the time I torque my oil drain plug as well, 18 ft lbs per spec).
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 13,007
Likes: 0
From: Happiness is Busch in Victory Lane!
St. Jude Donor '09 & '12, '14
I've done it maybe 5 times without a hint of trouble. Once was for a water pump change. Drained the whole thing and never a problem. Simple, easy, piece of cake.
Bleeding the system is simple. Shucks, hardest part was adding the coolant back in, the system bleed itself.
I'm not trying to mislead anyone. It's just that this is as simple as it gets. Much easier than changing my oil. Do you change your own oil? If you do then surely this is a walk in the park. (half the time I torque my oil drain plug as well, 18 ft lbs per spec).
Bleeding the system is simple. Shucks, hardest part was adding the coolant back in, the system bleed itself.
I'm not trying to mislead anyone. It's just that this is as simple as it gets. Much easier than changing my oil. Do you change your own oil? If you do then surely this is a walk in the park. (half the time I torque my oil drain plug as well, 18 ft lbs per spec).
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,939
Likes: 448
From: CHOCOWINITY NC
At some point you may want to acquire a selection of torque wrences. I have a 1/4 drive for small stuff like TPMS tightening, a 3/8th drive for most small activities, and a 1/2 drive strictly for lug nuts...My wrist is pretty well calibrated so I really don't use them much, but occasionally each is handy..
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 165
Likes: 4
A simple install.
1) Start with a cool engine, why do it hot?
2) Raise front end high enough to place a large drain pan beneath car, you can drain radiator or you can loosen t-stat housing (10mm IIRC) & enough coolant will drain out to do job. You do not have to remove any hoses. Remove pan when thru draining, lower car.
3) R&R t-stat with new 160 t-stat, be sure to orient the tab on rubber gasket properly w/housing - if not it will leak.
4) Tighten t-stat evenly, the housing does not need to be Gorilla tight but snug (a precise technical term).
5) Refill radiator expansion tank, don't tighten cap, start engine, let idle, watch expansion tank and refill as necessary. You can raise rpm to 2000 rpm to bring engine to operating temp sooner, checking coolant level a few times. Take a short ride to get temps up, then recheck coolant and you're good to go.
6) Enjoy your new Chuck CoW tune and t-stat.
Good luck, Joe
1) Start with a cool engine, why do it hot?
2) Raise front end high enough to place a large drain pan beneath car, you can drain radiator or you can loosen t-stat housing (10mm IIRC) & enough coolant will drain out to do job. You do not have to remove any hoses. Remove pan when thru draining, lower car.
3) R&R t-stat with new 160 t-stat, be sure to orient the tab on rubber gasket properly w/housing - if not it will leak.
4) Tighten t-stat evenly, the housing does not need to be Gorilla tight but snug (a precise technical term).
5) Refill radiator expansion tank, don't tighten cap, start engine, let idle, watch expansion tank and refill as necessary. You can raise rpm to 2000 rpm to bring engine to operating temp sooner, checking coolant level a few times. Take a short ride to get temps up, then recheck coolant and you're good to go.
6) Enjoy your new Chuck CoW tune and t-stat.
Good luck, Joe
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 10,399
Likes: 26
From: Austin Texas
Going to change out my Tstat this weekend and just wondering if just the coolant in the radiator needs to be emptied or does the coolant in the block need to be emptied also? last time i changed the coolant to wetter water and distilled water i let the car get up to operating temperature and then opened the valve and i got 12 quarts out. I would prefer not to have to take out all fluid if possible... any advice is greatly appreciated.
No need to drain the full system, 2 gallons out will get the coolant below the t'sat.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,762
Likes: 4
From: Chandler Arizona
I debated whether to post this for the 10th time. If you do a search you'll find all the excellent advice that people have given you on this thread. Plus you would have found one more useful tip. I learned a cool way of bleeding the system on this forum about 3 years ago. Maybe that's the problem, people do not search that far back.
To bleed the system, take off the small coolant line that comes off the driver's side head. Then take off the coolant reservoir cap and place your mouth over the opening and blow until coolant comes out of the line you removed. Top off the coolant and put the line back on. Make sure you get the line all the way back on or it might rub against the MAF like mine did. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK AS YOU DO NOT WANT TO SWALLOW ANY COOLANT.
One more thing that I did from advice here. If you are quick, you can remove the thermostat and install the new one without losing much coolant without draining the radiator first. It's a little messy but it saves you some time. I put in new coolant/water mix, I never reuse any old coolant anyway.
To bleed the system, take off the small coolant line that comes off the driver's side head. Then take off the coolant reservoir cap and place your mouth over the opening and blow until coolant comes out of the line you removed. Top off the coolant and put the line back on. Make sure you get the line all the way back on or it might rub against the MAF like mine did. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK AS YOU DO NOT WANT TO SWALLOW ANY COOLANT.
One more thing that I did from advice here. If you are quick, you can remove the thermostat and install the new one without losing much coolant without draining the radiator first. It's a little messy but it saves you some time. I put in new coolant/water mix, I never reuse any old coolant anyway.
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 11,792
Likes: 255
From: Ossining New York
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
CAll me today and I'll walk you through it...
Call me today and I'll walk you through it...
It's not hard, but you need a quick lesson to avoid stupid mistakes....
Call me and I'll help you!
Chuck CoW
It's not hard, but you need a quick lesson to avoid stupid mistakes....
Call me and I'll help you!
Chuck CoW
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 165
Likes: 4
Just want to thank everyone for your help! the tstat change out was easy... My cruising temp used to be 192, drove it around today and it stayed steady at 178. thats amazing! I let the car idle for a few minutes and it went up to 210, then i turned on the fans with my manual "ON" switch and the temps droped to 180 in less than 2 minutes. It was amazing! this will be perfect at the 1/4 mile staging lanes! 
