What preferences do you guys have in choosing between a pressure bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, and which is easiest to use? Also is there a preferred sequence of which wheel to start with and the order of the others?

 

I plan on changing my calipers and pads this weekend and bought a motive power bleeder, so I'm curious abt this also.

 

Rule of thumb is to start with the longest line, and work your way to the shortest. Since the ABS module is on the drivers side, that makes the order right rear, left rear, right front, left front. That's what I do, but I don't think it really matters.

Don't know about vacuum vs pressure though since I use neither.

 

I have a Motive Power Bleeder and like it very much - it makes flushing/bleeding a simple procedure. I also have speed bleeders, which is overkill because, with the Motive, one man bleeding is very simple.

I use it like I think most forum members use it - i.e., the common wisdom is that you simply use it as a pressure source, and you do not put fluid in the Motive unit.

When flushing, I suck out most of the old fluid from the master cylinder with my turkey baster (same one I use for changing clutch fluid using the "Ranger" method). Don't suck the m/c dry! I fill the m/c with new fluid, hook up the Motive, and pressurize with about 7 or 8 psi - that's all you need to get a good bleed.

Make sure you check fairly often, especially if flushing instead of just bleeding - you want to make sure you DO NOT RUN THE M/C DRY!!!

You're not going to bleed/flush the ABS circuit with a Motive (although I've read from a couple of guys that 15 psi will open that circuit and get new fluid into it as well, but I'm not sure of that). I've never worried about it when I flush when prepping for track events. You really need a Tech 2 at the dealership to do a proper ABS flush. Although, a couple times, after flushing and bleeding I have gone out on either wet pavement or grass and exercised the ABS a couple times with hard braking to get some new fluid in that circuit - at least I think it works, but I'm not sure.

The Service Manual says to bleed the LR, the RF, the RR, then the LF. The reason seems to be that for safey reasons the brake system is divided into 2 sections, with the LR and RF on one circuit, and the RR and LF on another.

I just bleed LR, RR, RF, LF and have never had any problems.

Good luck!!

Bob

 

The 2005 service manual says to use the following order when doing pressure bleeding: Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, and Right Front.

Don't ask me why. I was all set to do the same order as I had done on my 1994 which was furthest away from reservoir to closest (RR, LR, RF, LF) until I checked the official service manual. That is what is says, so that is what I do....

I use a Motive pressure bleeder and LOVE it.

 

That's the order I meant to say in my post above!!

As I mentioned, apparently there are 2 circuits for safety - the RR and LF, and the other circuit for the LR and RF. Maybe with a Tech 2 it's more important to do it in that sequence.

But, like you, I just bleed the old fashioned order that you listed above.

Bob

 

I use a cool device called a "Gravity Bleeder". I like it best because it works perfectly, hasn't failed in billions of years, and it cheap (free). Works for me!

 

I fill it with fluid and pump it up to 30psi. No reason not to.

 

I only bleed my brakes probably 5 or 6 times per year. Once a bottle of fluid is opened it starts absorbing water and isn't much good after a few weeks.

If I fill the Motive jug it takes much more fluid than if I just fill the m/c as necessary during the flush/bleed process. Because I only bleed infrequently all the fluid in the Motive jug would not be something I want to use in my brakes after several weeks.

Also, I've had the Motive connector pop off the m/c if I put in more than about 15 psi. If the jug and the line going to the m/c were full of fluid it may spray all over the place if the connector pops loose.

Even with speed bleeders I don't need more than about 6-8 psi to get a good bleed.

Bob

 

thats cool. I install my calipers for local people and I just use a fresh quart of fluid every time, flush their system and throw away the rest.

 

Thanks for the very helpful info here guys, very much appreciated.

Mike, I'm changing out the calipers and the pads you sent me this weekend. I do have to admit they are absolutely beautiful, fantastic work. I am soooo glad I didn't just paint them myself as I had planned to do. The calipers are literally works of art, love the metal flake in them also. Once I'm done with the job I will post pictures.

Dave

 

I use a vacuum bleeder. There was some discussion in the AutoX/RR forum a while back about pressure bleeders emulsifying air into the brake fluid. I got the mity-vac bleeder from Tool-Topia for around $100. It works great, but you do have to have an air compressor. (operates off vacuum venturi principle)

 

Thanks to all who responded to my questions. Those with the Motive power bleeder, Where did you buy it?

 

I bought mine at Zip Corvettes as recommended by another member here.

 

I have used both the Motive Bleeder (pressure system) and a vaccum bleeder (Mityvac with hand pump), and I prefer the vacuum system. I always had troubler making sure there was a good seal between the motive bleeder and the reservoir cap, and I always worried about a loss of seal resulting in brake fluid spraying all over the place (although that never happened). Plus, I like to be able to see the amount of fluid as it comes out of the reservoir because it helps me be sure I have pulled enough fluid through the caliper to replace the fluid in a line, and a motive bleeder makes that hard to do. Also, with a motive bleeder, you need different attachments for different cars, while a vacuum one will work on any car because the bleed screws are of similar size. Finallly, the vacuum units can also be used to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir when you begin, so you don't need a baster to do that and don't run the risk of dripping fluid like you might with a baster.

So my opinion is that the Motive Bleeder is good, but I like the vacuum method better. Both are an improvement over the conventional two-man process of pumping the fluid.

Chris

 

Get the Motive with the GM cap, not the generic cap.

I made my own cap.

 

I changed the calipers out yesterday, and used the Motive bleeder. Worked perfectly (I used it as a pressure source only). Got a nice firm peddle, wow so much easier than the old 2 person method of pumping the brake peddle!!

 

Thanks for the feedback. Looks like the Motive is the way to go.