Okay, so ever since I got the new headers on I have noticed a reoccuring issue.

I know what is causing the issue, it is the heat from the headers, but...

Every time I get into spirited driving, or I do a run on the track... My clutch gets very stiff, directly afterwards... and it stays stiff for about a minute or less... than goes back to normal.

I know that the heat from the headers is causing the clutch fluid to overheat... my question is: is this a precursor to a future problem? Should I be worried about this?

I just don't want to blow up my clutch... I realize that I am probably going to have to replace the clutch in the future, but the later, the better... as I do not have the money for it.

 

You could wrap the clutch line if you believe the heat is causing the issue, but most of my customers do not seem to have this issue.

Normally when the fluid heats up, the expansion of the line, brings the clutch pedal engagement higher because you now are using more fluid to engage the release bearing due to the strech in the line.

 

Well, maybe it is not caused by the headers... But, that seems to be the most obvious culprit of the problem.

What else could it be? Is this an issue I should be worried about? I mean, the clutch goes right back to normal after about a minute, give or take.... I just want to make sure I am not damaging anything.

 

anyone?!

 

just sell the car

 

Go get another mod... and spend more money noob.

 

i will...gotta put a roll bar in since my car will be in the very low 11's to maybe even a random high 10...haha

go break another rear part, buy some crappy kooks headers that used to rattle, and have your iat's and knock retart mess up again

 

Did you do anything else besides the headers? The stock Y-Body clutches (Luk units) are cause for much debate as to why they act like they do, particularly when you start to add power. I've had the stock clutch in my old C5 and my C6 do everything from stick to the floor to get super mushy to have dramatically increased pedal pressure after flogging it. Some say heat boiling the fluid, some say pressure plate design, some say sun spots. I do know of instances where people changed just the slave and still had the issue or upgraded to an (at the time) LS6 clutch and still had problems. All that seems to solve it is to go with another clutch manufacturer. You can change fluid often, that I highly recommend. I blame the fluid getting hot as well as the "self asjusting" pressure plate design. After I added a lot of power to both cars I can actually feel the clutch pedal raise on me as RPMs come up which I attribute to the fingers extending out due to centrifugal force. Like I said, there are a lot of theories but only one real solution but on the bright side I have never heard of someone blowing up one after it acted up on them. It will just continue to annoy you and eventually you will start missing shifts and have to get out of it in-between gears while at the track until you get sick of it and put another one in.

 

I have full bolt ons... making close to 400rwhp. Yeah, it is annoying more than anything... But, if it is not something to really worry about then thats good. I guess I will just change it out this summer when I get some extra cash.

 

you need a cam or nitrous before a clutch

 

I'll have a blower cam and boost next summer before I buy a clutch... go troll around on someone elses threads.

 

haha...i can't...you always troll on mine...

 

I had a stock clutch and had 684rwhp with headers and boost but what I learnt was to change the clutch fluid to dot4, I know some people will say there's no way to change it without pulling the tranny out , but thats not true, I will explain how to do it without a lift or going under the car.
Now go to the drug store and get yourself a suringe (A big injection niddle)now get your dot4 fluid and a ugly empty bottle.Start by pulling out the dirty fuild from your clutch reservour as much as you can, pour some dot4 and pump clutch, repeat this about 5 times and the complete res will get clear with new fluid.
Now you are completed go and try it, from my experience the clutch pedal will improve and the boiling point will no longer be that low to cause any futher problems.

 

he does that to his car already...he uses dot4...i taught him how to do it a couple of months ago...

 

what do you recommend to wrap the clutch line with, a nomex style boot or will some foil tape do the trick?

 

So basically just use the DOT 4 fluid instead of the DOT 3 fluid then? I know the standard procedure for changing the fluid. Is there anything special for the DOT4? I'm guessing not right?

 

Know, you do the dot4 the same way. Just suck out the bad fluid, fill in some dot4, pump the clutch 25-30 times, change the fluid again until it stays clear.

This is a solution and seems to help.... but, it has to be done ALL the time. By all the time, I mean after every spirited driving on the street or track run.

But, its not that big of a deal... I know how to fix it... my point of this thread was to know if my clutch woes will lead to any kind of future problem, and if there is anything I need to be worried about.