super charger

Just kidding. My first bit of advice would be to locate the forced induction section of this forum, make a cup of coffe, and start reading. There's a lot to be learned. If you are genuinely that unfamiliar with forced induction, or superchargers in specific, I'm curious if it's really suited for you just yet.
If you are going Turbo, the TTi kits seem to have the best rep. STS is also a turbo system, but the turbos are rear mounted. Some feel that is a plus, while others feel it is a minus.
Before you make your decision, be sure to do plenty of research as noted above. Doing your homework up front will save you a great of time, effort and money. (Take it from someone who made many mistakes along the way, and wound up paying dearly.)
Last edited by thomas walters; Nov 18, 2008 at 11:06 PM.


People are going to come here, and they are going to tell you that whatever happens to be in their car is the best. Then a shop or two is going to show up and post that their kit is the best, and they might say a thing or two about why. Then maybe someone will disagree and a pissing match will start; finally the thread will fizzle out or the pissing match will get interesting and it will be blocked.
How do I know this? Well, a search for "Supercharger" on this very forum will yield at least two dozen similar threads to this one you just started... I read most of them when I was looking for my own kit. By the way, this isn't the best forum to ask questions on forced induction... There is an FI/Nitrous forum here where members tend to have more first hand experience with the kits.
First things first. STS does not make a supercharger kit, they make a rear mounted twin turbo kit. Lingenfelter offers two supercharger kits which are essentially the same kit you would get from Callaway, which is also not a Callaway kit; it is an Eaton Roots M112 or M122 blower mounted atop the engine. The M112 costs $12,995.00 and the M122 costs $13,995.00 (both prices installed), with the main difference being that the larger blower provides some additional top end power at the expense of some less torque down low. Lingenfelter's dyno has the M122 making 440RWTQ and 512RWHP with the M112 making a bit less. A stock LS2 dynoes 350whp on their dyno.
The STS Kit costs $7999, or about $10,000 installed.
Between the two I would pick the Lingenfelter; STS spools their turbos at the end of a 12 foot long pipe and then plumbs the air 12feet back up to the intercooler up front. They make some pretty quick drag cars, but on the street you can expect substantial lag before the turbos begin making meaningful boost... In contrast. the belt driven blower on the Lingenfelter kit will produce boost and start making torque right away, resulting in a vehicle that is more fun to drive all around.
So you have looked at turbos and one kind of supercharger, but what are you looking for? Until you figure out what exactly you want from your car, no one can really help you chose what kit is right for you... Do you just want a little extra power? Are you drag racing, track racing, or is this a street car? What kind of tires do you plan on running to hook up the power? Those things all matter when it comes to deciding on a power adder.
There are a few other options you may want to consider... If you like turbos, APS and TTI make much better kits with the turbos mounted up front where lag is minimal... Expect to pay a lot and possibly deal with heat issues, but it will make power....
If you want instant boost and tons of low end torque, you will want a positive displacement blower... You've seen Lingenfelter's kit, but if you buy it directly from Magnuson and install it yourself, or have a different shop do the install, it will be considerably cheaper... No Lingenfelter warranty though.
Finally, depending on your goals, you may want to look at centrifugals as well... They are more efficient than roots blowers, so you can make more power more easily; the low end torque won't be quite as impressive at the very beginning of the RPM range, but you get to keep your stock hood, and the kits are also considerably cheaper...
The options there are Vortech, ATI Procharger or Paxton Novi. Centrifugals had a bad rep in the C5 days because of numerous issues with belts that slipped or broke, cars that overheated, and blowers that sounded anywhere from a can full of marbles to a power steering pump gone bad. While kits have gotten considerably better, the general consensus is that you are better off buying them from a shop that also installs them themselves, as those kits tend to go through more revisions and thus have fewer issues... The two more popular kits right now are ECS (East Coast Supercharging) and A&A. ECS uses Paxton Novi blowers whereas A&A uses Vortech. Both are virtually identical but Vortech blowers are CARB certified, and also somewhat quieter if you get the "SQ" (Super Quiet) variant.
I ended up going with A&As kit for my car because it was considerably cheaper (they are on sale now for $4500 for a base kit, $5200 for the higher end kit I got using a polished blower and A&A's new Ram-Air intercooler) and because I felt it had te better belt tensioner and intercooler design. That's less than half what you would spend at Lingenfelter; you can have the complete kit installed right now for less than $7K at Vette Doctors.
But again, the reason there are so many options is because different buyers are looking for different things. For me, personally, I am really happy with my A&A kit; my car looks and sounds stock and I can still daily drive it to work in the rain, yet it makes 597WHP / 518ft-lbs torque and is unbelievably fast on boost... I could make much more with a bigger blower for instance, but at those power levels you start to run into some traction issues on the street, so, again, you have to make some decisions regarding tire choice and intended usage before you decide what is best for you...
Good luck
Last edited by PowerLabs; Nov 16, 2008 at 11:00 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
(Maybe no in this exact order: Check out the forced induction section)
Step 1: Contact Lingenfelter, STS, ProCharger and A&A. Ask them to send you their literature.
Step 2: Decide why you want one. (street or track or both)
Step 3: Ask your wife if you can spend the money.
Step 4: Verify that emissions police won't come a knockin'
Step 5: Find a shop in your location who can install and tune the blower you decide on.
Step 6: Start out slow with no less 91-93 Octane
Step 7: Get ready to modify your auto trans (of clutch) and buy new tires.
Step 8: Buy a radar detector.
STS spools their turbos at the end of a 12 foot long pipe and then plumbs the air 12feet back up to the intercooler up front. They make some pretty quick drag cars, but on the street you can expect substantial lag before the turbos begin making meaningful boost...
Don't take me the wrong way, but to my knowledge, you don't have any real experience with the STS system. Intercooler intake pipe length has proven to have little to no effect on lag. Diameter, and constriction at bend radii are substantial factors, length is not. This is the same argument posed by many for larger vs. smaller intercoolers that has had holes poked in it numerous times.
Dig around for reviews by reputable shops who've installed the STS system, and none have reported substantial lag, or lag noticably exceeding that of manifold-mounted or other turbo kits.


Don't take me the wrong way, but to my knowledge, you don't have any real experience with the STS system. Intercooler intake pipe length has proven to have little to no effect on lag. Diameter, and constriction at bend radii are substantial factors, length is not. This is the same argument posed by many for larger vs. smaller intercoolers that has had holes poked in it numerous times.
Dig around for reviews by reputable shops who've installed the STS system, and none have reported substantial lag, or lag noticably exceeding that of manifold-mounted or other turbo kits.
But the intake pipe comment is really a moot point when you are trying to feed the turbine with exhaust gas energy that needs to travel 12 feet to the back of the vehicle, losing heat and speed in the process. I don't want to be rude, but honestly, rear mounted turbos are the WORSE possible way you can turbo a car, and a quick look at Corky Bell's "Maximum Boost" will echo the sentiment: having the turbos on the back goes against every single principle of trying to conserve exhaust gas energy, trying to minimise heat losses, trying to reduce lag, etc. You simply could not make a laggier turbo system for ANY car short of maybe purposely throwing in another exhaust restriction in there.
And that's before we even get into the fact that the intake sits in the worse possible place to ingest dirt and water (STS tells you to put a "sock" over your air filter when it rains and drill a little hole in your intercooler for water to blow out for christ's sake!) and has an oil scavenge pump to get the oil all the way back to the engine up front that likes to go out from time to time and make the turbos consume quarts of oil and leave behind trails of smoke as you try to limp home and hopefully not ruin the turbo seals..
Oh yeah, and even though you really don't need much Experience to Speculate that turbo systems with 30 feet of plumbing are going to lag more than one mounted next to the engine, like *every single manufacturer, race team and aftermarket turbo kit does*, I actually happen to have ridden in an STS-Equipped C6; it was a black 2007 A6, and it did lag, CONSIDERABLY. I believe the owner said he could never really make full boost in 1st gear. So I'll stick by my original comments.
I think its a great system for someone looking for a cheaper way to turbo their car, and it performs pretty well on the drag strip where even 2L Mitsubishis can be made to spool up a 1200CFM+ turbo off the line and keep it spooled during flat shifts (the record right now is a 7 second pass on a 2L block by John Shepard. Laggy cars are not slow; they just suck to drive outside of a drag strip), and makes for a pretty good street car too since even the stock engine, naturally aspirated makes enough horsepower for most people, but for me, IN MY PERSONAL OPINION, it is not the way to go when I can pay $5000 to make more power with a supercharger that will have zero lag... You can get anything you want for your own car of course
Last edited by PowerLabs; Nov 17, 2008 at 06:01 PM.




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C5/C6 and C7 Supercharging Specialist
ECS Supercharger Kits / Mantic Clutches
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Step 1: Contact Lingenfelter, STS, ProCharger and A&A. Ask them to send you their literature.
Step 2: Decide why you want one. (street or track or both)
Step 3: Ask your wife if you can spend the money.
Step 4: Verify that emissions police won't come a knockin'
Step 5: Find a shop in your location who can install and tune the blower you decide on.
Step 6: Start out slow with no less 91-93 Octane
Step 7: Get ready to modify your auto trans (of clutch) and buy new tires.
Step 8: Buy a radar detector.
I run a Procharger F1A and I TOO would go with a A&A system if I was starting out stock again and looking for 500-600 RWHP.
Andy's set-up can get you the RWHP that you are looking for and with NO PROBLEMS!!
Last edited by C6 ROLLER; Nov 18, 2008 at 08:49 AM.










