What Next?


Of course, those setups make more power than you can put down at any legal speed via street tires, and are one bad tank of gas away from blown ringlands... But they exist... And we can't argue with results
Forum vendors will tell you that THEIR kit is the best.
Forum members will tell you that whatever they happen to have in their car is the best.
These questions get asked a few times a week; we even have a sub forum for them, the FI/Nitrous section, and a search for "Supercharger" will provide you with ENDLESS reading material to answer your own question from a much more educated perspective...
That said, I will be happy to give you my own personal opinion:
In reality what is "recommended" depends on what you want from the car, how you are going to drive it, and what your budget is...
There are currently two choices for Supercharger kits for the C6:
Roots, and Centrifugal, with a 3rd in the works; the Twin Screw. I won't discuss twin screws but suffice it to say that it is very similar to a roots blower in that it mounts on top of the engine, requires an aftermarket hood, and produces instant low end torque, but it is a lot more efficient than the roots and does not show much of a drop off in torque and power at the end of the powerband.
If you want instant boost and tons of low end torque, you will want a positive displacement blower I.E. roots... Magnuson is the manufacturer for this kit and you will find it in Lingenfelter and Callaway cars. Cost is around $7500 - $8000+ depending on options. Add another $2000 for the install. These blowers mount on top of the engine, requiring a raised hood, which is additional cost and looks that some don't like. They make boost right away, producing huge gains in low end torque, which is very good, if you are, say, in 5th gear cruising through traffic and want to pass someone without downshifting, but maybe not quite so good if you are, say, in 1st gear trying to launch the car on street tires and instead just spinning them. There is also an Eaton TVS blower which is more efficient and makes more power, but also costs about twice as much.
Centrifugal superchargers come in 3 flavours: ATI Procharger, Paxton Novi, and Vortech: all are much more efficient than roots blowers, so you can make more power more easily. They do not require an aftermarket hood, so the car's looks remain stock, and they are also cheaper than roots blowers. Driveability wise, the difference is in where the boost is made: low end torque from centrifugal superchargers won't be quite as impressive until about the middle of the RPM range, from where the centrifugal supercharger continues making boost efficiently and goes on to make more power and torque than a comparable roots blower. Centrifugal cars can be made into very fast drag cars since the top of the power band is all you ever use in drag racing; there are a number of 10,9, and 8 second cars on this forum running centrifugals, and even a basic kit can earn you a 10 second pass with the right tires under the right conditions.
Centrifugals had a bad rep in the C5 days because of numerous issues with belts that slipped or broke, cars that overheated, and blowers that sounded anywhere from a can full of marbles to a power steering pump gone bad. While kits have gotten considerably better, the general consensus is that you are better off buying them from a shop that also installs them themselves, as those kits tend to go through more revisions and thus have fewer issues... The two more popular kits right now are ECS (East Coast Supercharging) and A&A. ECS uses Paxton Novi blowers whereas A&A uses Vortech. Both are virtually identical but Vortech blowers are CARB certified, and also somewhat quieter if you get the "SQ" (Super Quiet) variant.
Maintenance wise, you are given the choice of either a self oiled or an engine oiled blower. With the engine oiled blower you continue to follow your engine's oil change interval and the blower oil gets changed along with it. With the self oiled blower you have to change the blower oil separately during your engine oil change. Belts need to be replaced every 30,000 or so miles depending on boost level and usage.
I personally ended up going with A&As kit for my car because it was considerably cheaper (they are on sale now for $4500 for a base kit, $5200 for the higher end kit I got using a polished blower and A&A's new Ram-Air intercooler) and because I felt it had te better belt tensioner and intercooler design. That's less than half what you would spend at Lingenfelter; you can have the complete kit installed right now for less than $7K at Vette Doctors.
Different drivers may look for different things from their car For me, personally, I am really happy with my A&A kit; my car looks and sounds stock and I can still daily drive it to work in the rain, yet it makes 597WHP / 518ft-lbs torque and is unbelievably fast on boost... I could make much more with a bigger blower for instance, but at those power levels you start to run into some traction issues on the street, so, again, you have to make some decisions regarding tire choice and intended usage before you decide what is best for you... Any supercharger kit will net you at least 600crank HP and be good for those 11.5 second passes you want on any weather... From there, the specifics are up to you...
Good luck and let us know if you have any specific questions
Anyway, what tires are you running with this combination. The Supercar F1's have 20k miles on them. Looks like I am about to switch to Nittos. But I value your opinion.
Thanks!


Anyway, what tires are you running with this combination. The Supercar F1's have 20k miles on them. Looks like I am about to switch to Nittos. But I value your opinion.
Thanks!

No issues driving them in the worse torrential rainstorms; the never hydroplane... Dry traction is surprizingly good when they are warm: I could hook up 1st gear no matter what back when I was making 395whp/387wtq... Now with 597/518, when warm the tires will hook up WOT in 2nd if I ease into it, and will hook up 3rd every time. 1st is hopeless though. When cold, they are quite bad... Violent wheelspin all the way into 3rd gear. I've got about 10K miles on them and they are not down to the wear bars yet...
I believe the PS2s are the lightest, best street tire there is. THAT SAID, they are also very expensive, and don't compare to a race compound tire. If you don't have to worry about driving in heavy rain, and don't care about low tire life, a set of Nitto 555R, or Toyo Proxes R888 will grip a lot more... That is what I am looking into for my next set, and I'd like them in 18" and at least 305 width...







But adding forged internals for 650rwhp is necessary.
Unless you like driving around with a time bomb.
