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i was going to post some pictures of the issue for others to see and still will but it was the roll pin, it's about 3/4's of the way out. Just chalk this up to another issue I've had with this car, that makes around 20 in 50,000 miles... I'm going to upgrade the rear, trans and clutch while I'm at it.
Hey, that's good news!!
What gear set are you going with?
Here's a lousy iPhone pic of the shift rod coming out of the trans, where the pin goes. Too bad you have to take the entire torque tube out to get at it!
What became of the non-start issue? Ever figure out what it was? I'm having a similar problem, but in 2nd gear. Although, the shifter still has what feels to be an identical amount of spring-tension as it always has.
I as well cannot get the car to re-start now after disconnecting the battery and not having the car in Reverse. It has thrown a code as well, as the check engine light is on.
What became of the non-start issue? Ever figure out what it was? I'm having a similar problem, but in 2nd gear. Although, the shifter still has what feels to be an identical amount of spring-tension as it always has.
I as well cannot get the car to re-start now after disconnecting the battery and not having the car in Reverse. It has thrown a code as well, as the check engine light is on.
I forgot to go back and update this thread after I fixed the problem, sorry guys...
My issue was that the roll pin had worked it's way out causing it to be locked in third and thus wouldn't allow the computer to cycle off and restart. I ended up upgrading my whole drivetrain with a RPM Level V Zo6 Trans, an RPM Stage III rear with 3:90's and a Zoom 900# Dual disk unit with an aluminum fywheel... When I put it all back together it started right up and shifted more precisely and faster than ever before.
Thanks for the update, man. At least I know now that the two are related, and that the car *should* start back up once I can get the damn thing out of 2nd gear.