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I am doing a head swap this weekend and have a question about the head bolts. The torque specs are a bit different between using OEM bolts and ARP bolts.
I purchased the bolts I plan on using from a local auto parts store. I am assuming that these are ARP bolts because they are not from GM and there is no info on the boxes telling me if these are the type that "stretch" or not. Does anyone have any thoughts or advice on this issue before I do the job.
I am installing Patriot Performance cnc ported heads, Dynatech LT headers and X pipe.
Thanks for the info, this is my 1st time doing anything like this. The forums were a wealth of information, the search feature worked like a champ for all the questions I had and planning I had to do.
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
Originally Posted by creepyC6
Thanks for the info, this is my 1st time doing anything like this. The forums were a wealth of information, the search feature worked like a champ for all the questions I had and planning I had to do.
I am confused....did you buy ARP or not?
I thought the bolt manufacture gives the torque specs. Did the torque specs come with your head bolts?
Also, if my memory serves me correct, the bolt manufacture will tell you what needs be put on the threads before installation...oil or sealant because it will affect the torque readings.
Also, need to clean up the holes threads in the block. Any coolant or junk that gets in the hole may cause the bolt to bottom out and when you torque it, it may crack the block.
If they are TTY (Torque to Yield) bolts, they should instruct you to use a Torque Angle Gage. I have one if you want to borrow it. I used it once and it was a PITA. If you can avoid using TTY bolts, do it.
I thought the bolt manufacture gives the torque specs. Did the torque specs come with your head bolts?
Also, if my memory serves me correct, the bolt manufacture will tell you what needs be put on the threads before installation...oil or sealant because it will affect the torque readings.
Also, need to clean up the holes threads in the block. Any coolant or junk that gets in the hole may cause the bolt to bottom out and when you torque it, it may crack the block.
If they are TTY (Torque to Yield) bolts, they should instruct you to use a Torque Angle Gage. I have one if you want to borrow it. I used it once and it was a PITA. If you can avoid using TTY bolts, do it.
To answer your questions, the bolts I bought are ARP (stamped on the head)the bolts did not come with torque specs, I had to find this information myself. The got specs for the ARP bolts from posts in the forums and they match what I have found elsewhere as well as the spec that was sent with the heads.
Yes, I was planning to tap the threads and clean before installation.
Completed the install tonight and wanted to say thanks to those who answered a few questions for me. Total time was 22 hours of labor which I feel is not too bad for a 1st time. The heads were not quite as much trouble to install as I had assumed. The biggest pain in the neck was the alternator bracket/power steering reservoir. The rest of the job, including torquing the heads, went great.
The headers installed and fit like a champ. I have a good bit of clearance around the headers and X-pipe. the kit came with some really handy little clips to route the O2 sensor extensions away from the pipes. The car sounds amazing.
The car started right up after install and I added coolant as needed(and it needed a lot). Oil pressure is great. The idle is about 100RPM over what it was before install so I am not sure about that one.(was 600RPM now at 700RPM) Due to the heavier springs I can hear a little valve noise but that was expected, has a little more of a sewing machine kinda sound but not really noticeable.
Overall I am very happy with the results. I am getting it tuned tomorrow and I am looking forward to getting it out on the road a little.