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I have been trying to do some research on this and no one seems to have any real answers as to the pros and cons of it. The LS2 is a solid V shaped plastic guide that the chain rubs against the sides of it when the chain loses tension. The chain ONLY contacts on the out side of the guide/damper inside of the chain.
The new LS3 tensioner has a solid peice on the right (inside the chain) and on the left side is the spring loaded side (on the outside of the chain) and it pushes on the chain inward to keep tension on the chain.
The 64k question is this better or worse than the standard V shaped LS2 damper. LG says they prefer to stick with the LS2 style on their cam swaps but no real answer as to why. Does anyone have a good answer as to why? I know my eclipse and other ricers have this style of guide/tensioner. It seems to me to make sense to want pressure to keep the chain from moving around too much during a vibration condition or slack in the chain, am I wrong?
I have been trying to do some research on this and no one seems to have any real answers as to the pros and cons of it. The LS2 is a solid V shaped plastic guide that the chain rubs against the sides of it when the chain loses tension. The chain ONLY contacts on the out side of the guide/damper inside of the chain.
The new LS3 tensioner has a solid peice on the right (inside the chain) and on the left side is the spring loaded side (on the outside of the chain) and it pushes on the chain inward to keep tension on the chain.
The 64k question is this better or worse than the standard V shaped LS2 damper. LG says they prefer to stick with the LS2 style on their cam swaps but no real answer as to why. Does anyone have a good answer as to why? I know my eclipse and other ricers have this style of guide/tensioner. It seems to me to make sense to want pressure to keep the chain from moving around too much during a vibration condition or slack in the chain, am I wrong?
I have used the LS3 style tensioner/guide assembly on a couple cam swaps, and have not had any problems with it. To me it seems like the better mouse trap and takes up any chain slack.
^ I called them yesterday and asked the same question and the "round about" answer I got was if it ain't broke, don't fix it. They haven't seen much issue out of the LS2's setup and figured the more complicated setup of the LS3 may just cause more harm than good....hence the swap back to the LS2's damper.
I am not sure what to think as the LS3's setup does seem like the best chain damper available at the moment. Still didn't keep me from busting my timing chain though.
Yeah I agree it seems to make more sense having the spring tensioner over a v shaped piece of plastic. Anything that keeps the chain in place seems to be a better set up. I agree with Spin that more than likely it is just the weaker LS3 chain that caused your break, the high lift and steep ramp I am sure put a lot of stress on the chain. I was also told by a shop the LS3 wasn't as strong as the LS2 (don't know how they would know that) but take it for what its worth. Good luck with the rebuild, by the way did you examine the timing chain that broke?
Thats not good! Do you think it is a bad thing to have pressure on the timing chain like the LS3 does? So many other cars seem to have the same thing.
Good or bad, is hard to say, just because they dropped them does mean it didn't work. It's not a easy job to build the fastest for the dollar car in the world.
In 1997 they used the LS3 style dampener for a very short run. Then removed them.
Randy
I have been reading a lot about this, and they used the same style as the LS2 and they discontinued it, even though a lot of the blocks still had the holes to mount it, my 1999 did'nt. You cant even find one now, and the LS2 piece got different mounting holes. (same as LS3)
Right now I'm waiting to recieve a LS3 dampener to modify it to fit my LS1, I dont like how loose the chain rides.
I can tell you from experience on my camswap we also upgraded to a double roller timing chain using the stock ls3 timing tensioner it ran goodfor about 7k miles. But soon after I heard a squeeking sound coming from the engine we looked everywhere for the culprit finally after pulling the timing cover off and chain we noticed. That the chain was just barely rubbing against the back of the chain hence thesound well we changed the tensioner to the ls2 style and that fixed the clearance issue with the chain.. Just one of those things you learnthe hard way.. Hope this helps,,,
I can tell you from experience on my camswap we also upgraded to a double roller timing chain using the stock ls3 timing tensioner it ran goodfor about 7k miles. But soon after I heard a squeeking sound coming from the engine we looked everywhere for the culprit finally after pulling the timing cover off and chain we noticed. That the chain was just barely rubbing against the back of the chain hence thesound well we changed the tensioner to the ls2 style and that fixed the clearance issue with the chain.. Just one of those things you learnthe hard way.. Hope this helps,,,
The ZR1 uses the LS3 style guide, so take that for what its worth. However, there is also some rumors floating around that the leaf spring on the LS3 style guide has been prone to breaking in the past. More "there is no clear winner/answer" smoke when it comes to these engines.
I have not read anything over the last year about the LS3 guide being a problem, has anyone else? I would think having that little bit of tension would keep the chain from getting slack when you let off the gas real quick and then get back on it. Any thoughts?