Engine removal
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,097
Likes: 5
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Now I'm intimidated. I just wanted to pull the motor out and send the heads out to be ported and throw a cam in it, & upgrade the clutch. Pulling the driveline out from the bottom looks like a chore! Is there a book availible for C6's on w/ procedures, etc on some of this? I'm gonna feel so alone out there 
Christopher
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Jacksonville Florida BWO Dayton, Cincinnati, Bloomsbury NJ, Cincinnati
2015 C7 of the Year Finalist
Question?
If you pull it out the top, does that save a front end alignment?
Dropping it out the bottom is a sure thing for a front end alignment.
Elmer
If you pull it out the top, does that save a front end alignment?
Dropping it out the bottom is a sure thing for a front end alignment.
Elmer
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,835
Likes: 5
From: Avon Park FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
when you pull from the top you are not changing or removing anything that would alter your aligment!!!!!
the frame stays in the car bolted up, you simply remove the mounts from the subframe
the frame stays in the car bolted up, you simply remove the mounts from the subframe
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,097
Likes: 5
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Since you still need to lower the front cradle even while taking it out from the top, my guess is that you probably will need an alignment.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,097
Likes: 5
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
You must have done it slightly differently than I did as I dropped the cradle in order to have the harmonic balancer clear everything.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,835
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From: Avon Park FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
I had no problem at all clearing the rack or radiator, I did remove water pump and all acc's
and removed the A/C compressor bolts and stud just prior to rotating for clearance.
and went back the same, I did remove the engine mounts from the engine and subframe.
and removed the A/C compressor bolts and stud just prior to rotating for clearance.
and went back the same, I did remove the engine mounts from the engine and subframe.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,097
Likes: 5
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Six of one I guess...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,835
Likes: 5
From: Avon Park FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
it's just what I was used to, I'm oldschool!!!! don't know the ways of the worldTime wise it took me 2 hrs out and 3 back, doing things in order and taking my time.
Last edited by pmj341; Mar 18, 2009 at 05:58 PM.
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Anytime you drop the cradle you need to get an alignment. I thought I had all my ducks in order by marking the position of the bolts on the suspension (mark the adjustment bolt/washer and the suspension and make sure you place the front suspension spacers in the same place)....... and yet it still needed to be adjusted on the alignment rack......go figure 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Racer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 321
Likes: 2
From: Southern NH
We'll, here we go. I pulled the driveline out from the bottom. Now just have to do the upgrades and put it all back together. One thing that slowed us down a little is the wiring harness. We started disconnecting all the fuel injectors and component wire plugs. Once it really started to get tideous and had to pull headers and starters and still wasn't sure how to get the harness through the drivers side of the engine. We stopped and thought about a different approach. I ended up tracing the engine harness down to the computer in the fender behind the passenger side front tire. Marked and disconnected the 2 connectors and traced one other harness to the fuse box on top of the pass wheel well and removed it. After that all the engine wire harnesses came out with the engine assembly. Here's a pic of the hardware out the bottom. Thanks for the above pictures, they provided a great reference (and moral support, lol)
http://videos.streetfire.net/photo/906JPG_1657630.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/photo/906JPG_1657630.htm
Racer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 321
Likes: 2
From: Southern NH
Thanks all for the excellent thoughts and info posted here a couple months back. My buds, Ian, Julian (2Lane Performance who did the engine work) and I just finished putting the driveline back in the car and I took it for a quick ride. 
Just making sure the new clutch is working, gauges look good, and nothing is leaking. The thing sounds pretty sweet. 
I'll post the video tomorrow. The engine now has some seriously good flowing 243 heads ported by Total Airflow and a Vengence VRX5 cam. Vengence also supplied the FAst 92 intake.
The combo won't idle yet and it's either running very lean or very retarded.. the headers started to glow holding the rpm's at 2500. It's going to J&M Motorsports in CT on Thursday to dial in the tune for all the new inurds. Can't wait to drive it "for real" when everything is running smooth.
Just making sure the new clutch is working, gauges look good, and nothing is leaking. The thing sounds pretty sweet. I'll post the video tomorrow. The engine now has some seriously good flowing 243 heads ported by Total Airflow and a Vengence VRX5 cam. Vengence also supplied the FAst 92 intake.
The combo won't idle yet and it's either running very lean or very retarded.. the headers started to glow holding the rpm's at 2500. It's going to J&M Motorsports in CT on Thursday to dial in the tune for all the new inurds. Can't wait to drive it "for real" when everything is running smooth.
