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@^%@#$ Crank bolt snapped: now what?

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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 04:53 PM
  #61  
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Use old bolt and torque on the Crankshaft balancer bolt to 240 lb ft.

Next, Install new bolt and first pass 37 lb ft.

Last pass tighten bolt 140 degrees.



All of that taken straight from the Helms Vol 2 9-809 Engine Mechanical 6.0L




Elmer
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 05:38 PM
  #62  
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I ordered an ARP Balancer bolt that should fix the issue. The only good thing to come out of all the work is I definately would not be scared to pull engine in the future if needed.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 05:42 PM
  #63  
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well ya got a good attitude about it...you will be running fine shortly
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 06:24 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by N2O4YOU
No locktite as I was just seating the pully on the crank with old bolt. Unsure why it snapped so easy and back in the crank. This looks like I am in for a long weekend
Hello,

Just a note to why the bolt may have broken. If oil was left on the bolt before it was installed a 240 ft/lb torque reading would actually be over 300 ft/lbs. Not sure if this happened in your case but always make sure you have the threads clean (I usually use carb cleaner or break cleaner).

Hopefully you can get a left handed drill bit in there and then pound the "square easy out" in and remove. I personally don't like the spiral easy outs.

Good Luck from Green Bay
Douglas
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:58 PM
  #65  
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AND, while you're there you might as well put a clutch bleeder kit in there.....
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 03:04 AM
  #66  
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To burn out the bolt with typical EDM equipment (e.g.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:29 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by sheesnaz
This is the tool I use to install the Balancer to the crank.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/tools-...tool-pics.html

cheap, and works great.
I just went to a good hardware store and bought a three foot section of all-thread rod and a couple of nuts/washers...it cost all of $15 and worked like a charm.
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