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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 07:51 PM
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Default FAST epoxy?

Buddy has a leak in the modded area in the back of his FAST 90. What epoxy is good to use to reseal this?

I was thinking he could use some sort of plastic epoxy to seal it. Let it dry. And then use epoxy putty (Quick Steel) over that so it is double sealed. Quick Steel says it can be used on intake manifolds.

Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks,
Andrew
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dsp300c
Buddy has a leak in the modded area in the back of his FAST 90. What epoxy is good to use to reseal this?

I was thinking he could use some sort of plastic epoxy to seal it. Let it dry. And then use epoxy putty (Quick Steel) over that so it is double sealed. Quick Steel says it can be used on intake manifolds.

Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks,
Andrew
There are lots out there but with metal I've always used JB Weld, works quite well. But there are many out there Im sure are just as good.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 08:02 PM
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FAST epoxies are usually not as strong as slower curing ones

For the BEST epoxies out there, I recommend McMaster-Carr; you can find the same type of epoxy material the manifold is made from there. I bought some of their fibreglass epoxy (3M Scotch-Weld 2-PART Epoxy Adhesive 1838 Green, 2-OZ Tube) for my railgun barrel, and it held together at 60,000PSI

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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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sorry...didn't mean fast curing...meant FAST epoxy as in epoxy to use on a FAST 90
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dsp300c
sorry...didn't mean fast curing...meant FAST epoxy as in epoxy to use on a FAST 90
I think Powerlabs knew that and was simply joking around with that first sentence, hence the wink smilie following it.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:13 PM
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If you are trying to repair Amodel polyphthalamide (PPA), the producer (Solvay Advanced Polymers) recommends using Lord 305-1/2 LP200.

http://www.ellsworth.com/display/pro...1&Tab=Products
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:44 PM
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i am sure everyone is going to choose a different epoxy...so use a slow curring epoxy that takes about 24 hrs...

so say if you put a good epoxy around the modded area to reseal it, will it be ok to put some epoxy putty on top of that to help create a 2nd layer/seal or is that overkill?


so will any kind of epoxy be able to stick and adhere to the Goop that is already on there to seal the back mod or will it not adhere to the Goop?

Last edited by dsp300c; Mar 16, 2009 at 09:56 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 10:20 PM
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Have you tried the Purple Goop that Spin uses? It can be had from Home Depot. I'd just use that and not put anything over it. It takes 24 hours to cure.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Buddy A
Have you tried the Purple Goop that Spin uses? It can be had from Home Depot. I'd just use that and not put anything over it. It takes 24 hours to cure.
That Household Purple Goop has a high temp rating of 150* and is a clone of Shoe Goo. I would think underhood temps could reach 200* on a hot day, since IAT's can easily hit 150. I would happily bet anyone that you would never see Goop or Goo used under the hood of any Pro Racing Team car.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by siffert
That Household Purple Goop has a high temp rating of 150* and is a clone of Shoe Goo. I would think underhood temps could reach 200* on a hot day, since IAT's can easily hit 150. I would happily bet anyone that you would never see Goop or Goo used under the hood of any Pro Racing Team car.
me and my buddy were thinking the same thing...especially down here in texas where his FAST is
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by dsp300c
me and my buddy were thinking the same thing...especially down here in texas where his FAST is
I found out that the people who make the material of the Fast said to use PC-7 (200* max temp) or 2 part Urethane (250* max temp). I suggest attempting to remove as much as that goop as possible before applying the correct stuff. Good luck.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by siffert
I found out that the people who make the material of the Fast said to use PC-7 (200* max temp) or 2 part Urethane (250* max temp). I suggest attempting to remove as much as that goop as possible before applying the correct stuff. Good luck.
I'm not sure what your motivation is but the last is going a bit far. I did nothing to you and after you got the prepped manifold from me you didnt install it and went on a long campain to bash me at every stop and this time saying I prep them wrong. I did nothing to you except disagree with your apparent lack of enthusiasm for the results people get with these manifolds. I offer the prep at a price no other vendor would even talk to you for and offer a service to mod it that few companies would even do. Now you take a shot like this which attacks the very center of the service I offer. I wonder how ethical it would be for me to find where you work and ruin your reputation there.

If its the wrong glue then why are there over a 100 of these in service for the last 4 years out there. The first one I ever did was on my car and the second was on Welcome2try's car. He sent his back to me to get refreshened and guess what.....nothing wrong at all with the back of the manifold where I glued on the graft.

I repair a number of manifolds that used 2 part epoxies that crack open at the rear after using the 'correct stuff' as you say.

I offered to fix the FAST in question for free once I heard it was one of mine. Now its a bash fest to say I use the wrong glue by all the pro's. If it was then where are all the failures? This is the second one I know of and both had oil (not heat) issues. I now seal the glue from being able to come in contact with the oil with an epoxy paint.

Anyone who got a fast prepped recently will find the glue is sealed against oil. The glue used needs to be able to flex to handle the constant vibrations on an engine. It cant be a rock hard epoxy. Lots of vendors/tuners use that type of adhesive and they crack and thats when they get sent to me.

All FAST's prepped by me have a lifetime garantee as I wouldnt leave anyone out in the cold with an issue even years after buying one. Not a sinlge part on your car has a garantee that good. I even extend the fix to people who buy them second hand. I've done so many for free for people who tried it themselves and it came out bad. I'm a nice guy and definitely didnt deserve what happened in this thread. I offered to the frined of the OP to fix it for free and instead what I got was a thread to bash the mod.

Whats the goal Siffert? To stop all FAST sales and make me look bad? Let me know what I have to do to be forgiven for my sins.

Last edited by SpinMonster; Mar 17, 2009 at 08:13 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:14 PM
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Spin,
I wouldn't lose any sleep over this. I wouldn't hesitate for a second to have you prep a FAST (if I had one). Online forums are notorious for "expert" opinions. I wish you were closer, as I'd have you install one for me.

San
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:22 PM
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i didn't want this to get out of hand...just wanted to see if there was something else besides goop to seal it since me and a buddy were going to try and do it ourselves...

i wanted to keep the details of who did the FAST out of respect...

so please no arguing...

my buddy and i don't think it is an oil issue...last time we had it off of his car the intake looked good and it looks good now...

i have a few resolutions so this thread is over...thanks everyone for their input...
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dsp300c
i didn't want this to get out of hand...just wanted to see if there was something else besides goop to seal it since me and a buddy were going to try and do it ourselves...

i wanted to keep the details of who did the FAST out of respect...

so please no arguing...

my buddy and i don't think it is an oil issue...last time we had it off of his car the intake looked good and it looks good now...

i have a few resolutions so this thread is over...thanks everyone for their input...

I have no resistence to making a better way to hold on a graft but I know hard 2 part epoxies will crack. The twin says to stop relying on the glue to hold the graft in place so all future grafts will be over engineered and held on with two screws to an internal plastic brace made from the same plastic and will use a soft pliable silicone to prevent the leaks.

Send the manifold to me and it will be repaired with an internal brace to bolt the graft in place and the sealant will simply act as a gasket and not a fastener. Problem solved. It will take another 15-20 minutes but its secure.

Anyone else wanting this update will be able to send the manifold to me for the update for free......even if its a manifold prepped by another vendor. The later case can simply make a donation to St Judes Hospital.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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Let me see what my buddies wants to do...I'll let him know what you have said and get back to you...

Thread is no longer needed...Please close the thread...
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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Update:

Siffert will be sending his FAST 90 for updating to both the rear graft and to update the porting to current levels.

After speaking on the phone, it appears we had a prior miscommunication and both of us were appologetic and willing to work together to solve any remaining issues including tuning.

As a side note, its important to realize that written communications are always second best to speaking on the phone. When there there is an issue, go to the source before it gets bigger.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
Update:

Siffert will be sending his FAST 90 for updating to both the rear graft and to update the porting to current levels.

After speaking on the phone, it appears we had a prior miscommunication and both of us were appologetic and willing to work together to solve any remaining issues including tuning.

As a side note, its important to realize that written communications are always second best to speaking on the phone. When there there is an issue, go to the source before it gets bigger.
Good to hear! You and Gary are two of the 'good guys' (No pun intended )
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 10:15 PM
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An note about the rear graft install: Some manifolds were done using Automotive Goop in the red bottle. I dont know which customers had this type used. It apparently has a different temp threshold than the normally used purple Goop. The issue has raised some questions and has led me to realize that since I have seen and repaired manifolds that had 2 part epoxies crack due to different thermal expansions, that I dont feel comfortable relying on any adhesive to hold the graft in place. All manifolds done now will have an internal brace that uses screws to hold the graft in place and an epoxy only to fill in for an air seal. Its overkill but I dont want any room for doubt from now on. Anyone wanting this new fix can send me the manifold for a free update at my expense. There wasnt much by way of profit with donations in the equation but I dont feel its right to have a doubt even if its a loss financially so I have to do this and make it available to anyone who feels they may have been affected. Affected manifolds would have the glue bulging in the back of the manifold in the graft area and it can be seen if the throttle body is off. Scans of the car would show big positive short term fuel trends. I'm sorry to those affected but I will do whatever it takes to make it right. Newer manifolds will be immune to this issue.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 10:18 PM
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All goops have the same 150* max temp range. In addiiton, there is no Goop Adhesive that is impervious to motor oil. I think post #12 should be removed, since events have proved me correct regarding the incorrect use of goop adhesive in the Spin Fast and apparently never checking to see if goop was impervious to oil before its use as an adhesive on the modded SpinFast.

To the OP who started this thread-I hope you got whatever you needed here and good luck getting your Fast going again.

Last edited by siffert; Apr 30, 2009 at 12:16 AM.
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