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For now, we are going to keep the LS3 heads and intake, as they seem to flow really well.
Shop is guessing that I jammed a piston into the cylinder wall pretty good. Rod is definitely bent. Once they get the short block in, they will pull apart the old motor to see how many rods were bent.
Joe...good point. Going to start a new thread for the cam now.
A question: What are you calling bottom feeders? Are these systems suck from the actual bottom or through the openings just inboard of the parking lights (C5) or the grill(C6)?
I was caught in a rainstorm in Fla. a few years ago in an area I was not familiar with. Luckily I was in an SUV and made it through an area of deep water that could not be identified by looking. Sometimes there are low areas in a street that just don't look low when dry but have very deep water after a downpour. Also all the talk about the depth of the water is BS. You must realize that the front of the Vette in fairly shallow water will act like a blade pushing up a wave of water that will get deeper and deeper at the front of the car even at a slow speed. Any intake open in the grill area is subject to inhaling this wave. You can't always say it's driver error or that is ok to drive in a certain depth of water-the front or bottom feeders put you at risk unless you never drive in the rain OR know the roads your driving very well.
A question: What are you calling bottom feeders? Are these systems suck from the actual bottom or through the openings just inboard of the parking lights (C5) or the grill(C6)?
A bottom feeder (C6) is like the Vararam or Vette Air, which sucks air (and bugs, leaves, even sometimes water-see post above) just inboard of the grill. A back feeder (Callaway Honker) has its opening though the radiator shroud placed on the opposite side of the radiator and about 6-8" higher than a bottom feeder.
Thanks! Great diagrams!
I drove a 5.0 Mustang for 20 years and it had a Kenne Bell ram air kit where the "scoop" mounted under the front fascia.
It sat about 6" off the pavement. I never had an issue but was VERY careful where I drove it. I think what makes a difference is how it is ducted and the placement of the filter. For me to suck water it would have had to make a 90 degree turn up and then a couple of 45 turns through the fender and another 90 into the air box that housed the filter.
Obviously, a straight shot to the filter and you have more of a chance of sucking water.
Speaking of water, when I was a kid and was trying to make an old car that had been sitting run better was take some water in a bottle and dribble it down the throat of the carb. Clouds of steam out the back and eventually the idle would smooth out and the car would run pretty decently. Before you start flaming, no, I'd never do that to a Vette or any newer car. But it did work on those older cars and they never hydrolocked.
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Originally Posted by Whisky
Speaking of water, when I was a kid and was trying to make an old car that had been sitting run better was take some water in a bottle and dribble it down the throat of the carb. Clouds of steam out the back and eventually the idle would smooth out and the car would run pretty decently. Before you start flaming, no, I'd never do that to a Vette or any newer car. But it did work on those older cars and they never hydrolocked.
No one is going to flame you on that one. Old school …….We utilized an IV bag filled with water and attached it to a vacuum line just below the carb.
Set the idle to 2000 and set the drip. The steam cleaned the intake, valves, piston tops and etc. We found it very useful with cams that had a lot of overlap and had exhaust revision. :thumbs
No one is going to flame you on that one. Old school …….We utilized an IV bag filled with water and attached it to a vacuum line just below the carb.
Set the idle to 2000 and set the drip. The steam cleaned the intake, valves, piston tops and etc. We found it very useful with cams that had a lot of overlap and had exhaust revision. :thumbs
That is a good "old school" way to de-carbon the engine. The theory I subscribe to is that when the water contacts hot carbon the water instantly vaporizing and that "micro explosion" blows the carbon or coke off or alternatively the local vaporizing of the water causes the coke to contract suddenly because it is cooled by vaporizing water and cracks and breaks. Both mechanisms are possible and may work together. So it is the steam as stated above does the good but it is really is the conversion of water to steam that does the job.
No problem with an engine ingesting water drops or mist and it actually can improve the engine efficiency. A number of fighter aircraft in WWII used water injection for a short term boost in HP. The dangers are using too much, which is actually pretty hard to do at mid to high rpms and used continuously, the water gets in the oil and it causes the oil to loose its lubrication properties and the water causes internal corrosion.
The big problem is too much water where it becomes the dominate component in the intake and ultimately cause hydraulic lock where it breaks things.
Thanks! Great diagrams!
I drove a 5.0 Mustang for 20 years and it had a Kenne Bell ram air kit where the "scoop" mounted under the front fascia.
It sat about 6" off the pavement. I never had an issue but was VERY careful where I drove it. I think what makes a difference is how it is ducted and the placement of the filter. For me to suck water it would have had to make a 90 degree turn up and then a couple of 45 turns through the fender and another 90 into the air box that housed the filter.
Obviously, a straight shot to the filter and you have more of a chance of sucking water. ...
Frankly, if you think about it your example above may have a little to do about the twists and turns of the intake, much more to do tho in how and where you drove your car. The intake for a car is a large vacuum "cleaner", so to speak. It sucks up everything and without a bypass valve, shutoff, cutout, or some other method of diverting or taking in an alternate source of air, it will take in the water with the air. To my way of thinking there's just no way a 45 or 90 degree angle will hold water and keep it from getting ingested into an engine. Your cautious driving had far more to do with it than the design and length of tubes, imo.
About six years ago, K&N designed a quik-release for a major portion of their intake for another car (G35 Infin) which required you get out and pop the hood, but at least it worked easily. AEM had already designed a valve that sensed water and diverted to an in-engine air source. The fact that there is nothing yet like those for Vettes is kind of amazing, esp. since the "cold air intakes" cost about double what those other intakes cost
No one is going to flame you on that one. Old school …….We utilized an IV bag filled with water and attached it to a vacuum line just below the carb.
:thumbs
Now that was high tech! I used a Coke bottle....LOL
I hydro-locked a new 1987 vette back in the day. Did absolutely no damage. Removed the plugs, cranking over the motor to get the water out, sprayed some oil back in the cylinders, blew it out again & changed the oil 3 times.