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I just have a quick question for you guys... I have my converter tuned to not lock up in paddle mode, but it seems like the converter will never flash . Just curious, because this could fry a single disc converter at WOT... Anyone else notice this. I'm going to revisit my tune again tonight, but I could have sworn I set all the values for apply to 158....
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Originally Posted by xstang
I just have a quick question for you guys... I have my converter tuned to not lock up in paddle mode, but it seems like the converter will never flash . Just curious, because this could fry a single disc converter at WOT... Anyone else notice this. I'm going to revisit my tune again tonight, but I could have sworn I set all the values for apply to 158....
If I put it in paddle mode and travel at a low mph and nail it, I'm not seeing the same rpm flash that I do in normal S or D mode when punching it from the same speed.
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Originally Posted by xstang
Chirs,
If I put it in paddle mode and travel at a low mph and nail it, I'm not seeing the same rpm flash that I do in normal S or D mode when punching it from the same speed.
If you’re in paddle mode and punch it, the car isn’t supposed to downshift or upshift on its own.
Probably best not to go WOT in paddle until you get the TUTD unlocking. My 98 Camaro would not hold on the dyno at WOT with the PI converter. Don't want to boil it!
Probably best not to go WOT in paddle until you get the TUTD unlocking. My 98 Camaro would not hold on the dyno at WOT with the PI converter. Don't want to boil it!
Exactly.... I hit it once just to see how it was acting. I bet alot of people forget TUTD when they do the tuning....
I just took a look at some of my scans and even with my 3600 the car starts moving well before it hits the rated stall speed.
Chris.... I guess what I'm trying to say if you drive your car with a stall at 5 mph and floor it in S or D, it will flash then catch at 3000+rpms before throwing you back. Now... do the same 5mph roll and floor it in paddle mode /watch the tach... It's not jumping the same way... That's how my car is currently working. I'm thinking the paddles are locking the converter.
Chris, but it should flash to the given stall speed if it's not locked... right????
Meaning if you have a 3200+ converter and you nail it, it shouldn't grab until the rpm... When I hit it, it was grabbing at 1500-1800 rpms ....
No, the converter will start to grab well before stall speed. The only way to get it to flash to stall is to have resistance or initeria to overcome. Once you're rolling, whether you'll see stall speed is a function of how fast the output shaft is rotating. In fact it should jump to above stall speed if the converter output shaft is already turning 2800 rpms to use your example.
Can you take off in 2nd or 3rd gear? If you have decent tires and start in a high enough gear with no spin, you should see pretty close to the true stall speed if you mash it.
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Originally Posted by 8850
You should be able to footbrake to almost 3000 with a 3200 stall. Converter is locked if you only see 1500-1800 and moving.
No, that's not how it works.
I just got off the phone with Dave from Yank Performance (to double-check my facts before posting) and here’s how it works:
The rated stall speed of a converter is known as the flash stall
As a general rule of thumb, you should only be able to footbrake the car up to around 1000 RPM less than the advertised flash stall.
How high you can footbrake the car may be slighly higher or lower depending on your tires, track prep and how good your brakes are.
When the car starts moving the converter isn’t locked, but rather it’s “coupled up” which means that the internals of the converter have reached a point where the fluid will start turning the input shaft of the transmission and in turn, the wheels
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Originally Posted by xstang
Chris.... I guess what I'm trying to say if you drive your car with a stall at 5 mph and floor it in S or D, it will flash then catch at 3000+rpms before throwing you back. Now... do the same 5mph roll and floor it in paddle mode /watch the tach... It's not jumping the same way... That's how my car is currently working. I'm thinking the paddles are locking the converter.
If you punch it from a 5 mph roll, you're probably in 2nd or 3rd gear by that point so what you're actually feeling is the car downshifting first before throwing you back in the seat. If you're in paddle mode however and punch it, the transmission won't downshift and will take off in whatever gear you're in at the time.
Does that sound like what might be happening?
If it's not, I just helped a guy with his tune earlier today and found out that it was set up all wrong so that might be the case with yours too.
If you want to e-mail me your tune I can take a look if you'd like.
Yes, that's how it worked for me and multiple PI converters over the past years. Obviously you do have to be able to hold traction, have brakes that hold just as Yank told you, etc. The torque your particular engine produces varies this rpm as well.
This is a PI converter and not a Yank. PI converters typically have a stall rpm more than a Yank rated the same. I've owned multiple PI concerters including a 3200. I could brake stall mine to over 2500 rpm on a good concrete surface.
Ok, I went home and changed my apply settings to 158 for apply and left all the release speeds stock... It feels like it's flashing now. The only thing is, it feels like the paddle mode hits way too hard when you nail it. I might stay out of paddle mode all together. Has anyone figured out how to add in some torque management without the car acting too sluggish? Right now with TM removed /looser converter, it feels like it's going to snap my tranny in half every time I nail it!
Ok, I went home and changed my apply settings to 158 for apply and left all the release speeds stock... It feels like it's flashing now. The only thing is, it feels like the paddle mode hits way too hard when you nail it. I might stay out of paddle mode all together. Has anyone figured out how to add in some torque management without the car acting too sluggish? Right now with TM removed /looser converter, it feels like it's going to snap my tranny in half every time I nail it!
That may not be the actual converter. That my be your shift pressure. If it is too high when the conveter engages it will give you a very firm shift. Basically feels like you got kicked in the pants.