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A6 and Gear Ratio

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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 01:26 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by siffert
I never had a problem admittied being wrong, have you? In this instance, Drag Times DA has given correct DA info for every track
folks have run (save for some minor varience with altitude vs Google Earth). Except, quite oddly, for your deep negative DA track called Atco.

You cannot put a handheld weather station directly in the sun and/or clouds on the track surface, you will get incorrect readings all the time. For measuring track surface temp, you use an infra red temperature sensor. Every handheld weather station instruction manual will tell you to use that instrument in the shade ONLY.

For further details on how to use a handhled weather station correctly at the track, do contact Ranger. Basically he puts his Kestrel in an upside down 5 gallon bucket with the top cut off and out of direct sun shining down on it. Thus, it is now quite apparent why those Atco DA readings of yours are so out of whack with the rest of the world!
were did i say we put it in the sun, and as far as putting it in an upside down bucket if there is a little wind or 12 noon its still wrong the heat will be genarated in the bucket, its best in the open but of course shaded by a pole
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 01:27 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by HITMAN99
OK, it should be pretty easy to launch the A6 in second gear. Next time I am at the track (my once a year excursion) I will give it a try.

Equivalent of a 'Glide. That's what I had in my '59.
that wont work
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 09:41 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by thesubfloor
Been there, done that with running a 4000 stall in my A6 and definitely wouldn't recommend it.

My 3600 drives fantastic but the 4000 was very slushy during normal driving and got me absolutely nothing at the track. I made a grand total of 7 passes over the course of two trips before finally going "uhh...that's enough for me" and pulled it out to put a 3600 back in.
I just want to say that I've run anywhere from 3200 to 5500 stalls and I can see where a lot of folks might not like the looseness of a 4000, but that for a car that shifts at 6500 or higher, a 4000 stall for strong 60 ft times is a no brainer. A few of the guys on here have pulled high 1.5's which is awesome, but for drag racing, 1.3's are where it's at. I know someone on here pulled a 1.48 or so with a LS7 swap and like a 3600 stall, which is awesome. To hit a 1.42 will require playing with it some more and finding some more STR.
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
Okie, I have 50 or so PM's from people seeking free info and 4 free e-mail tunes (friendship seeking gestures involving no money for me) to get to, including Siffert's tune above who is looking to discredit my intake manifold mods and porting. Feel the love.
Hi...no need for a free tune from you, I got a more agressive new paid tune (from my past tune from Larry's House of Tuning) last week from José at The Bone Yard. Went to the track today, set a new PB. From my new tune, 19 mph tailwind and your SpinFast 90, I figure I picked up around .05 and 1 mph from your SpinFast (this was after getting nada from a ported stock intake). This was with no cam added so I would think .10-.15 and 2-3 mph would be good for a cam car with a SpinFast. Thus I now proclaim to all here the credit due you for your intake manifold mods and porting. Thanks!

Last edited by siffert; Apr 12, 2009 at 04:29 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 10:07 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
I just want to say that I've run anywhere from 3200 to 5500 stalls and I can see where a lot of folks might not like the looseness of a 4000, but that for a car that shifts at 6500 or higher, a 4000 stall for strong 60 ft times is a no brainer. A few of the guys on here have pulled high 1.5's which is awesome, but for drag racing, 1.3's are where it's at. I know someone on here pulled a 1.48 or so with a LS7 swap and like a 3600 stall, which is awesome. To hit a 1.42 will require playing with it some more and finding some more STR.
That would be me who did the LS7 swap and as it turns out, those 1.4x 60fts have been with my Traction Control on fulltime!

After doing the engine swap I figure I must have pinched a wire or something as I was getting the trio of service lights (ABS,TC & AH) on my dash and mistakenly assumed that the TC simply wasn't working as a result. After looking over my scans the other night I realized that it wasn't a case of it not working, but rather it was on all the time and I wasn't able to turn it off.

As a result of my little "discovery" I'm hoping to improve on my ETs and 60ft even more.
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 10:10 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by thesubfloor
That would be me who did the LS7 swap and as it turns out, those 1.4x 60fts have been with my Traction Control on fulltime!

After doing the engine swap I figure I must have pinched a wire or something as I was getting the trio of service lights (ABS,TC & AH) on my dash and mistakenly assumed that the TC simply wasn't working as a result. After looking over my scans the other night I realized that it wasn't a case of it not working, but rather it was on all the time and I wasn't able to turn it off.

As a result of my little "discovery" I'm hoping to improve on my ETs and 60ft even more.
Is it showing in your logs with everything off? The reason I ask is, its showing the samething in mine with everything off.
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by siffert
Hi...no need for a free tune from you, I got a more agressive new paid tune (from my past tune from Larry's House of Tuning) last week from Jose at The Bone Yard. Went to the track today, set a new PB. From my new tune, skinnies and your SpinFast 90, I figure I picked up around .10 and 2 mph from your SpinFast (this was after getting nada from a ported stock intake). This was with no cam added so I would think .20 and 3 mph would be good for a cam car with a SpinFast. Thus I now proclaim to all here the credit due you for your intake manifold mods and porting. Thanks!
Congrats and very cool to give Spin some of that credit.
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 10:13 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Tony B4
Is it showing in your logs with everything off? The reason I ask is, its showing the samething in mine with everything off.
If you still have my cell phone number Tony give me a call but if you don't, let me know and I'll PM it to you.

Christopher
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 10:48 PM
  #89  
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I gained 2 tenths with the 3.15 diff over the 2.56. Looking to trade down for a stock one and cash. It has both z06 shafts and has 4000 miles on it. It is a best RPM offers. PM me for details
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 12:16 AM
  #90  
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Wow, what did I start

I think you guys are on topic, with the suggestions, information and combo experiences. I'm basically driving the street. Perhaps a trip to the track a couple times a year for kicks.

Now a few questions...I am new to the automatic and wanted to know what is meant by "sloppy" or "loose" when referring to a converter?

Can that be tuned out as mentioned?

Does the trans feel like its slips them bam, it lock up?

Please excuse my ignorance
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 03:27 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by siffert
Drag Times DA does not make predictions. It takes the weather data for
a given track and a given date/time and applies the 4 components that make up DA (temp, altitude, barometer and humidity) and gives a scientific number for what has already occured. The fact that Drag Times DA (along with every other online web site and cable/TV broadcast weather) does not match to your "Atco Boys weather station" does not mean it is inaccurate.
True...nor does it mean that it's 100% accurate either.






Originally Posted by siffert
For further details on how to use a handhled weather station correctly at the track, do contact Ranger. Basically he puts his Kestrel in an upside down 5 gallon bucket with the top cut off and out of direct sun shining down on it. Thus, it is now quite apparent why those Atco DA readings of yours are so out of whack with the rest of the world!
He may be doing that now/recently but he certainly wasn't doing that during any of the 4 track rentals that I'd attended with him there in the past.
Makes sense though, maybe our guys should try it that way next time.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 08:28 AM
  #92  
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my best with the stock gear was a 1.76,

hoping the 3.42 will get me into the 10.4's from the 10.8's, but who knows
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 08:57 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by siffert
For further details on how to use a handhled weather station correctly at the track, do contact Ranger. Basically he puts his Kestrel in an upside down 5 gallon bucket with the top cut off and out of direct sun shining down on it.
could you explain this a little better, i dont understand, you take a 5 gallon bucket upside down with the top cut off, isn't the top of a bucket open already, now wouldn't that change one of the 4 elements like the temp, it could actually stop any heat from the track radiating into the bucket,the bucket is insulating the surface heat of the track from the weather station thus giving a false reading of the real da at the track, the surface area, the actual track itself. and that could be a big difference in the real da when racing know wonder your da never matches
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by takeman
Wow, what did I start

I think you guys are on topic, with the suggestions, information and combo experiences. I'm basically driving the street. Perhaps a trip to the track a couple times a year for kicks.

Now a few questions...I am new to the automatic and wanted to know what is meant by "sloppy" or "loose" when referring to a converter?

Can that be tuned out as mentioned?

Does the trans feel like its slips them bam, it lock up?

Please excuse my ignorance
A high stall speed converter is typically smaller, and allows the engine to rev to a higher RPM before the converter grabs and starts turning the wheels. One way to test this at a standstill is to apply the brakes, then apply the throttle. A stock converter will grab around 1800 RPMs and start spinning the wheels. A 3600 converter will allow the engine to rev up to 3600 RPMs or more before the wheels start to spin. The engine makes much more power at 3600 RPMs, so you launch better.

The converter is "loose" in that it is not as directly connected to the drivetrain, and doesn't "lock up" immediately. In everyday street driving, you won't get as much instant throttle response. The engine will rev just as freely, but the car doesn't feel like it is as responsive.

If you've ever been in stop & go traffic, the feeling you get in first gear is that if you just touch the gas, the car will leap forward, and if you let off the gas, the car will instantly deccelerate. A "loose" converter gives you the opposite sensation. If you touch the gas, the revs might increase, but the car doesn't leap forward immediately. It feels disconnected, or sloppy.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 10:04 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by HITMAN99
One way to test this at a standstill is to apply the brakes, then apply the throttle. A stock converter will grab around 1800 RPMs and start spinning the wheels. A 3600 converter will allow the engine to rev up to 3600 RPMs or more before the wheels start to spin.
A 3600 stall will not brake stall to 3600. it will generate enough torque to overpower the brakes well before its rated stall speed. 2200 - 2400 rpm is about all it should do depending upon the brakes, converter STR, engine torque curve etc.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 10:29 AM
  #96  
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I "have" a 2800 stall "and" 3.15 gears and I can tell You that I would go with the 3.15's over the 3.42's!
I also have over 550 rwhp.

Good luck
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 12:33 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
A 3600 stall will not brake stall to 3600. it will generate enough torque to overpower the brakes well before its rated stall speed. 2200 - 2400 rpm is about all it should do depending upon the brakes, converter STR, engine torque curve etc.

Point well taken. So let's just say that it will flash to 3600 RPM almost immediately after launch, much more quickly than the OEM converter.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 12:40 PM
  #98  
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Well basically it's running as much converter and gear as you should with a given rear until (a) you can't hook it and you have to do something about that, or (b) you now run through your power band too fast.

We've been messing with Gen III and IV engines long enough to know that a 3600 stall is still very streetable and could get an engine like an LS3 into the low 1.7's maybe 1.6's. 1.5's might be hard maybe 1.58's etc. Great stuff.

Really the question is what is too much. If I had unlimited cash and time, I'd start with a 5200 stall and work my way down. I'm guessing a 4000-4200 would do good things. What does R-Edgar run or some of those other NJ NA C5's? Plus, the bigger the engine the less you would buzz it up do to piston speed etc., plus you'd have better torque due to the cubes. It's a bit of a matrix.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis50nj
could you explain this a little better, i dont understand, you take a 5 gallon bucket upside down with the top cut off, isn't the top of a bucket open already, now wouldn't that change one of the 4 elements like the temp, it could actually stop any heat from the track radiating into the bucket,the bucket is insulating the surface heat of the track from the weather station thus giving a false reading of the real da at the track, the surface area, the actual track itself. and that could be a big difference in the real da when racing know wonder your da never matches
Wait, while running at the track your car doesn't take it's air directly from a source that's shrouded in an upside down bucket with it's top cut off?
The air at the actual track, at roughly bumper/air filter inlet level is the air that a motor sees, NOT from inside a protected but slightly opened bucket. That air may be heated from the track, that air may be cooled from the wind, that air may be exposed to a dry or moist condition etc etc but that is that the air the car is receiving.
Now I'll be the first to admit that I'm in no position to question Ranger's expertise on anything, but until I see his Z06 rolling down the track with a very large plastic bucket surrounding around it entirely then I will still have to why his weather station is being utilized that way as well.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 04:33 PM
  #100  
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You can pretty much tell what car purchase I have been researching lately, so I found the gearing/ converter discussion interesting.

So the stock A6 transmssion gear is as follows right:

4.030:1 first gear ratio
2.360:1 second gear ratio
1.530:1 third gear ratio
1.150:1 fourth gear ratio
0.850:1 fifth gear ratio

Compare to a 2002 Corvette Automatic:

3.06
1.63
1.00
0.70

I'll look around for a online gear calc program, I'd like to see the difference.

But that 4.030 first gear for the A6 is very nice, and the spacings look pretty nice. Back in the day a concern was that 1-2 shift drop off, and it seems like the A6 would not have that issue.

Now if you are going through the traps in 3rd gear, you are not going thru at 1:1, you are going through at 1.53.
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