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I have a 2005,Z51,mn6. I have had it for 16 mos and put 600 mi on it . I bought it used. The shifting was always a little sticky. I cleaned the brake fluid as per Ranger. This seemed to help.First drive this year seemed OK. Yesterday shifting got harder and harder. With the car off I can go through the shifts with out problem. Fire up the engine and the shifts are very difficult or impossible. Dealer says they have to pull the tranny and replace the clutch, probably a broken spring.
what does the brake fluid have to do with the clutch! SECOND you should be shot! you put 600 miles on in 16 months! I think your driving the car too hard! now if it's still under warranty let the dealer put a new clutch in it! they will put an 07 Z06 clutch in it, thats SOP now! thats the clutch they use for all vette's now. at 8000 on my 06 they replaced the tranny because it would not go in reverse, I was'nt happy at the time, but they put in the updated 07 in, if it's not under warr. find a good shop with experience with vette's and have them put the Z06 clutch in you will get a better price on the job IMHO
Yikes!!! I miss printed. Brain f&#T. I changed the clutch fluid as per ranger. Yeah, I should be shot. 600 mi isn't alot but they were enjoyable up to now. Weddings graduations travel and oh yeah day job along with crappy NE weather get in the way. Once I get this glitch out of the way I expect a significant increase in milage.
check the extendsion policy tho since the clutch is a wear item. if it's not, go independent shop that really knows Corvettes. probably be less expensive.
I'd suggest not leaping to replacing the clutch before you do the free and low-cost alternatives first. Dealers love to R&R the clutch, particularly these days. It's a big-ticket job.
First, is the clutch fluid pristinely clean after the clutch pedal is cycled full-top to full-bottom 20 times? If it's not, make it that way.
Next, if that brings no relief, then you want to replace the master cylinder. That's part fails when the seals in it are attacked by accumulated clutch dust (which contains shards of copper and iron). Think of what happens to the function of your eyelid when you get sawdust in your eye. An irritant can become a laceration. Same situation with clutch dust on the hydraulic seals. That's why it's wise to keep the clutch fluid clean.
The master cylinder swap usually solves the problem where a fluid clean-up didn't and saves about $1000 compared to a full R&R of the clutch.
I second the suggestion of checking master & slave cylinders first. In my C5 I had slave cylinder problem at about 40 K mikes that also caused hard shifting.
Extended warranty doesn't cover clutch or pressure plate but does on the flywheel.
Service mngr promises me they will go thru the car from stem to stern and will not stop at a seemingly plausable explanation and not check out other possible causes of my problem and potentially miss something. Reassuring, but I'm starting to get stomach cramps.
I got back from weekend trip and stopped by my dealers shop to get the skinny on my shifting problem. He had the car apart and the drive train apart. Clutch, slave and master all out on the bench to look at. The clutch, pressure plate, fly wheel look almost new. The slave is toast. I don't know the names of the specific parts but a flexible diaphram was all knarly and "scored" (from dirty fluid?). Another area that looked like someone had held it to 60 grit sand paper and spun it around was the larger center area that interfaces with the clutch (please forgive my mechanical ignorance).
Anyhow, my inclination at this point is to replace master and slave.
Oh yeah, I'm also having them install my new BB Fusion exhaust since they already have everything apart.
I played with the idea of getting a new clutch. I don't drive it hard and don't do autocross or track.
Also RP Syncromax going in the tranny.
Dave
Last edited by lapdoc2000; Apr 21, 2009 at 09:25 AM.
Reason: misspell
The clutch, pressure plate, fly wheel look almost new. ...I played with the idea of getting a new clutch. I don't drive it hard and don't do autocross or track.
I'd leave the clutch in there if it looks almost new unless you are changing out to lightweight flywheel. At that point I would consider going to the LS7 clutch and knowing everything was pristine.
Also RP Syncromax going in the tranny.
I've been following some of the tranny fluid threads. RP seems to have a mixed reputation. Many swear by it, some swear there is no difference noted, and a few swear at it.
Update #3
Life is full of compromises.
The good news: car is back together minus new exhaust. The primary failure was the slave. The clutch on furthur review had some "scoring". Anyways since it would not be clear if this would be a problem until the car was put back together and run I replaced it with a C7 unit. I skipped the RP syncromax since it may effect the warranty on the newly installed parts.ie Master, slave clutch.
The bad: New BB Fusion wont't be in until4/30. Although I must say the car sounds badass now w/o any mufflers.
I got the car back last night. Clutch fix working great. Shifter still notchy. There could be a MGW in my future.
The BB Fusion exhaust is great. Sounds awsome open and nice and quiet closed when cruising. When I got home I spent another 10 min playing with and listening to the sweet exhaust note. I also programmed the fob into the homelink, neat.
Things took a while but turned out well.
Now let's see....should I go for the Firestones RF or Michelins or bag RFs completely...Hummmm those chrome Z06 rims look nice. I wonder why Gerado hasn't called me back? Could these be signs of philvetticus megalomodicus?
I've put acouple hundred miles on the C6 since new clutch/BB Fusion install.
Although the service manager said they would not put the RP in the tranny they did. Shifts OK. I can't say I notice a night/day difference with RP vs pre RP.
I truly do like the BB Fusions. Yes there is drone at 1500 or so rpm with them open but it goes away with them closed.