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They dont make a 170. Your choice is 160 or 180. Stock is 187.
Since you're in southern oh, you probably should go 160. Up north, my
160 hits about 165 in 20-30 degree weather, though the heater still
kicks up heat. I have been thinking of trying the LPE 180 I bought off fleabay.
and wanted to see what temps people were getting with those stats?
the goal is to run cooler, period, was just debating what temp to run at
Hey, Beef --- long time no hear!
The 160 is what you need. The temp rating is misleading. I've tested some 180's, and there is not really a 20 degree difference, they actually start to open at almost the same temp, but then open more slowly. Adjusting the fan settings will also help to keep the coolant temps under control in stop & go traffic, and under heavy loads.
They dont make a 170. Your choice is 160 or 180. Stock is 187.
Since you're in southern oh, you probably should go 160. Up north, my
160 hits about 165 in 20-30 degree weather, though the heater still
kicks up heat. I have been thinking of trying the LPE 180 I bought off fleabay.
Actually they do make a 170- although it looks to me to be a modified OEM. I have one for sale if anyone is interested. Check the Ecklers catalog.
The 160 is what you need. The temp rating is misleading. I've tested some 180's, and there is not really a 20 degree difference, they actually start to open at almost the same temp, but then open more slowly. Adjusting the fan settings will also help to keep the coolant temps under control in stop & go traffic, and under heavy loads.
I repeated this several times. As soon as I would downshift to 4th, temps would immediately fall, shift back to 6th and they rise right back up.
I'm guessing the water pump isn't that efficient at low rpm (?). I was expecting a rise in temp at the higher rpm, but it was the opposite. Something to think about maybe if you have an underdrive pulley and plan on supercharging your car.
Those using a 160*F thermostat give this same experiment a try and see what you get.
and wanted to see what temps people were getting with those stats?
the goal is to run cooler, period, was just debating what temp to run at
I, like most that have replaced the TStat, am running a 160* Stat on a 415ci motor. My cruise temps are in the mid 180s with my fan scheduled to start to run at 190*. (The Stock setting for the fan is 204* and fully on at 238*) The highest temp I have seen was in 95* mid-day heat sitting at a stoplight - 207* - This is actually pretty cool for a modern car (my CTS cruise temp is 210*). My temps are essentially the same for a stock radiator and my new DeWitts unit.
I repeated this several times. As soon as I would downshift to 4th, temps would immediately fall, shift back to 6th and they rise right back up.
I'm guessing the water pump isn't that efficient at low rpm (?). I was expecting a rise in temp at the higher rpm, but it was the opposite. Something to think about maybe if you have an underdrive pulley and plan on supercharging your car.
Those using a 160*F thermostat give this same experiment a try and see what you get.
Well known phenomenon --- saw the same thing on my C5.
Dropping to 4th gear got the RPMs up over 2K RPMs in my A6, coolant temps dropped 6 degrees, to 175, within 10 seconds.
IMHO, guys running 3.90 of 4.10 gears on the street should probably not run a 160 thermo, 180 would probably work better. On the other hand, as AirBus has pointed out, guys running underdrive pulleys should probably consider swapping out their thermo for a lower temp model.
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
I run a 160F thermostat on my daily driven supercharged C6; it was fine in winter; the car warmed up just fine even in temperatures down in the 20s. In the summer I see cruising temps approaching 200, going up as high as 210 - 216 if I am driving very agressively (long high boost full throttle runs).
Back when my car had bolt ons only I saw 236F in Philadelphia driving in stop and go traffic with the A/C on
I have an LPE 180 stat sitting around to test out with the stock fan settings.
I think getting the motor to simply stay below 212deg (the point where the ECU starts pulling timing) regardless of conditions would be ideal as far as ensuring good heater operation/unaffected fuel economy.
I might try the 180 stat but it seems like the 160 with stock fan settings might be a good choice for the warranty conscious (like me) who aren't willing to flash the ECU but want to assure that their cars stay in the sweet spot of the timing map. I'm somewhat concerned about Coolant Temp enrichment being an issue with a stock tune when running below 190degrees though.
I have an LPE 180 stat sitting around to test out with the stock fan settings.
I think getting the motor to simply stay below 212deg (the point where the ECU starts pulling timing) regardless of conditions would be ideal as far as ensuring good heater operation/unaffected fuel economy.
I might try the 180 stat but it seems like the 160 with stock fan settings might be a good choice for the warranty conscious (like me) who aren't willing to flash the ECU but want to assure that their cars stay in the sweet spot of the timing map. I'm somewhat concerned about Coolant Temp enrichment being an issue with a stock tune when running below 190degrees though.
I thought you went into closed loop well below 190 degrees. Anyone know for sure?
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