PFADT competition bar: please help
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 26
From: Miami
PFADT competition bar: please help
Hi all,
Im getting a deal on a set of PFADT competition sway bars. I've heard about noise issues associated with sway bars. Should I worry about this issue or am I paranoid?
Do the bars come with all nessecary "silencing parts" or is changing sway bars opening a can of worms? I also want to lower it with the aftermarket lowering bolts. Do these bars come with what is considered a anti bump steer kit??
Im am in no way a mechanic so sorry if this sounds crazy. I would apreciate any info.
Thanks fellas!!
Rod
Im getting a deal on a set of PFADT competition sway bars. I've heard about noise issues associated with sway bars. Should I worry about this issue or am I paranoid?
Do the bars come with all nessecary "silencing parts" or is changing sway bars opening a can of worms? I also want to lower it with the aftermarket lowering bolts. Do these bars come with what is considered a anti bump steer kit??
Im am in no way a mechanic so sorry if this sounds crazy. I would apreciate any info.
Thanks fellas!!
Rod
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,345
Likes: 2
From: Houston 06 C6 Ysi SC 402 fgd TX
I know it may seem like a good deal. Pfat can chime in but those are really stiff and for COMPETITION. I know they adjustable...but look at the chart on their web page
I suppose you have gone for a ride in a car with them?
I suppose you have gone for a ride in a car with them?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 26
From: Miami
I would like to drop my car (all the way in the front) with the lowering bolts and make sure its stiff to keep the car more leveled and less preasure on the shock.
I might be way off but thats what I was thinking.
End result: PDAFT comp bar, lowering bolts, nitto invos, and MAYBE bilstein shocks later on.
Thanks for the feeed back!
Rod
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,345
Likes: 2
From: Houston 06 C6 Ysi SC 402 fgd TX
You can get new bilsteins for $300, used for $200. If the adjustment in the Pdfats are okay for you then great.
I would lower it on aftermarket bolts and do bilsteins first though..I have a used set of 2 aftermarket bolts for $10. A brand new set for $40 + shipping. Thats what I did first.. big improvement!!!
course best improvement is replace the run flats. they are okay if you get them heated up. but on the street they never get hot enough to grip
I would lower it on aftermarket bolts and do bilsteins first though..I have a used set of 2 aftermarket bolts for $10. A brand new set for $40 + shipping. Thats what I did first.. big improvement!!!
course best improvement is replace the run flats. they are okay if you get them heated up. but on the street they never get hot enough to grip
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City
The other source of noise on a PFADT set-up can come from the end links.
The PFADT links are are adjustable. You have to be very careful to set the links to the same height as your original links. If you don't there will be a knocking sound underneath the car.
They are 10 times better than the stock links, you just have to be careful to size them on install.
By the way, the swap is a two hour job with mostly simple tools.
The PFADT links are are adjustable. You have to be very careful to set the links to the same height as your original links. If you don't there will be a knocking sound underneath the car.
They are 10 times better than the stock links, you just have to be careful to size them on install.
By the way, the swap is a two hour job with mostly simple tools.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Waterfall, PA
Note to Pfadt: You should put this tidbit in your instructions, at least as a starting point. Step 4 of the instructions says to keep them as short as possible.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City
it also helps to have the receiver on the top and the bolt on the bottom.
Last edited by Leprkon; Apr 26, 2009 at 04:49 PM.
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Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Waterfall, PA
The rest of the story. It started when I had the car in the shop for an oil change. I work there part time so I can walk through the shop. I was looking over the car while it was on the lift. I noticed the passenger side end link was disconnected. By the time the mechanic was done with it, the end link as unusable. I called and got a new hardware kit and have been trying to get it right since.
Based on this thread, I checked the length that worked on the drivers side. It was right on. The passenger side was about 3/4 inch longer. It turns out that the end arm on the passenger side was offset significantly...
I found out you can take the end bar off while the sway bar is on the car but you can't put it back on. I set the end links to match the OEM bar, reinstalled the sway bar and it bolted right up. I still have to test drive it but I think this will solve my problem.
Based on this thread, I checked the length that worked on the drivers side. It was right on. The passenger side was about 3/4 inch longer. It turns out that the end arm on the passenger side was offset significantly...
I found out you can take the end bar off while the sway bar is on the car but you can't put it back on. I set the end links to match the OEM bar, reinstalled the sway bar and it bolted right up. I still have to test drive it but I think this will solve my problem.