***Please help with battery relocation***
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 7
***Please help with battery relocation***
I have read all the posts on this but felt it necessary to confirm 1 thing.
Would these be the correct steps to relocate the battery to the rear cargo area?
When removing the (+ /- harness), a positive wire is removed from the fuse box. When a new positive cable is run from the bat to the starter, am i to assume that a new positive must also connect to the fuse box as well?. The reason I ask is because i haven't read anyone mention it & it seems logical to do so.
If so, then would the cable go from the starter to the fuse box terminal or tap into the 1 gauge positive prior to the starter for convenience?
What gauge wire should be used for this connection?
__________________
Would these be the correct steps to relocate the battery to the rear cargo area?
When removing the (+ /- harness), a positive wire is removed from the fuse box. When a new positive cable is run from the bat to the starter, am i to assume that a new positive must also connect to the fuse box as well?. The reason I ask is because i haven't read anyone mention it & it seems logical to do so.
If so, then would the cable go from the starter to the fuse box terminal or tap into the 1 gauge positive prior to the starter for convenience?
What gauge wire should be used for this connection?
__________________
Last edited by vettemann62; May 3, 2009 at 09:29 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 887
Likes: 1
From: Dallas TX
Yes, you will need to run a battery cable from the Terminal on your Starter where you have your Battery cable from the rear of the car connected to, up to the same location on the fuse block.That is how power is distributed to the rest of the car. I would recommend you use the same size cable as you do for your +POS.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,155
Likes: 20
From: New Jersey
Probably a stupid question, but what will be the advantages of moving it to the trunk? I have though about doing it but never did. I always figured that GM put it where it was and had taken into account the weight distribution, and that moving it might mess that up.
Jeff
Jeff
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 6
From: Los Alamitos California
St. Jude Donor '09
I personally am replacing the stock battery with a lighter one and leaving it in the front. In my opinion, it isn't worth the added weight to run the cables to the rear, as they would weigh 1/3 or more the weight of my battery. I've wrapped the new battery with heat shielding. I'll post up my results soon.
San
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 7
How about this, it seems easier, but would it be as effective?
Run the positive from the battery directly to the fuse box & then one from the fuse box to the starter.
Both connectors would be overlapped at the fuse box & then only one cable would have to be sent to the starter.
What do you think?
Run the positive from the battery directly to the fuse box & then one from the fuse box to the starter.
Both connectors would be overlapped at the fuse box & then only one cable would have to be sent to the starter.
What do you think?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 6
From: Los Alamitos California
St. Jude Donor '09
How about this, it seems easier, but would it be as effective?
Run the positive from the battery directly to the fuse box & then one from the fuse box to the starter.
Both connectors would be overlapped at the fuse box & then only one cable would have to be sent to the starter.
What do you think?
Run the positive from the battery directly to the fuse box & then one from the fuse box to the starter.
Both connectors would be overlapped at the fuse box & then only one cable would have to be sent to the starter.
What do you think?
San
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 7
I've read that resistance has a lot to do with the fact that the electrons travel along the outside of the strands, so the more strands the better & that's why the welding cable is better than battery cable. Plus it's way more flexible.
If I were to connect the bat pos to the fuse box then the fuse box to the starter, I fear the overlap of the 2 connectors could cause a bottleneck to the starter or an imperfect connection over time, maybe not.
Also the post on the fusebox seems to be about 5/16" not even 3/8". I am using Heavy Duty Moroso cast copper compression connectors with 3/8" eyes. It would make the install easier if it could be done this way because only one - 1 gauge cable would have to connect to the starter instead of 2.
Is there an electrical engineer that could comment please
If I were to connect the bat pos to the fuse box then the fuse box to the starter, I fear the overlap of the 2 connectors could cause a bottleneck to the starter or an imperfect connection over time, maybe not.
Also the post on the fusebox seems to be about 5/16" not even 3/8". I am using Heavy Duty Moroso cast copper compression connectors with 3/8" eyes. It would make the install easier if it could be done this way because only one - 1 gauge cable would have to connect to the starter instead of 2.
Is there an electrical engineer that could comment please
Last edited by vettemann62; May 3, 2009 at 03:54 PM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 6
From: Los Alamitos California
St. Jude Donor '09
I like to do it right the first time, so I think you're smart to ascertain if there are any advantages in the way you've proposed to hook up the cable(s). Not an EE myself.
San
San
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 7
I am going to call an electrical supply store & see if they have a clean way of tapping off the 1 gauge so that the pos from the bat would go directly to the starter (uninterrupted) & the T-off could feed the fuse box.
