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I have a 2007 C6 automatic, 2.56 gears, K&N, polished throttle body, throttle body spacer, ported intake, ZO6 headers, cats, "H" pipe, NPP mufflers and it's been tuned.
Here are my best times:
60' = 2.193
330'=5.811
1/8th = 8.671
MPH= 86.32
1000'= 11.164
1/4 = 13.213
MPH=110.26
With just the K&N, polished throttle body, spacer, NPP mufflers and the tune, I did:
60' = 2.115
330'=5.690
1/8th = 8.527
MPH= 86.54
Adding the exhaust and porting the intake slowed me down. However, it was tuned by a very reputable tuner! The exhaust added about 28% more exhaust volume to the system and the the inlet side should be very efficient.
I'm in southern California where there are not really wide swings in weather. The 1/4 times were at 70 degrees at mid day; the 1/8th times were at 60 degrees and early evening. Relative humidity and barometric pressures would have been very close.
Stick it back on the dyno and see if you're getting alot of timing pulled. Maybe they can do a street tune? Bad tank of gas? Your 1/4 trap is 6-7 mph low.
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Originally Posted by seevi
I'm in southern California where there are not really wide swings in weather. The 1/4 times were at 70 degrees at mid day; the 1/8th times were at 60 degrees and early evening. Relative humidity and barometric pressures would have been very close.
Post the exact dates and times for each run as well as what track you were at and I can look up the DA to see how different it was.
Also, as someone already mentioned having more power can increase wheelspin off the line resulting in you actually running slower.
The worse ET is stricktly b/c of your worse 60' time on the second run. You 60'ed 2.11 in your first run, and then w/more mods, you 60'ed basically 2.2. Take that diff off your 1/8 ET and you're at about a wash.
HOWEVER, your MPH AND ET's are WAY off, IMO for even a stock car. Car should run mid 12's and even I have run 12.89/111 at 4500' elevation with muff's only. I agree that it needs to go on a dyno w/a WBO2. You're trapping only 110 at or near sea level. If the car was bone stock, I would not be happy w/that.
FYI, the ported TB and TB spacer probably aren't doing anything for you. Just saying so when you're "adding up hp" in your head, those things really aren't going to make a diff. I would guess that you SHOULD BE up ~30-40 hp over stock from the ported intake, exhaust and tune though.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; May 13, 2009 at 11:20 AM.
I agree with the rest of the guys. I would take it possibly to another tuner maybe a shop that is a vendor on here to know for sure you are getting a top notch tune. My Car is a 08 LS3 A6 with NPP which with your mods and tune you should be about the same hp as me being bone stock without a tune and I consistantly run 7.9-8.0 @ 91-92mph in the 1/8th I have not taken the car to the 1/4 track yet but plan on it tomorrow. I am at 500ft above sea level so not far off from where you would be.
Something is not right. Could be Torque Management was not disabled or tuned down a little atleast.
It's not TM. TM would not have that dramatic of an effect by any means. He's missing HP, for some reason. My guess would be the tune also. There is nothing wrong w/the hardware. My times posted above, were w/a stock tune.
Where are you running? I'm guessing the 1/4 track is Fontana and the 1/8 track is Irwindale. Fontana sucks, I've been there twice and DA was 3600' each time. Plus there's always a 10+ mph head wind or cross wind and I've been told the track is 12 feet higher at the finish line. I've not run at Irwindale, so I can't comment on that track.
Two thoughts occur to me. One is that the tuner may have optimized the A/F mix and the timing, but didn't take out the torque management. A 2.2 short time is pretty anemic. I pulled a 2.02 or so my very first pass, without heating the tires.
Second thing I would look at is heat soak. Your coolant temps can creep up when sitting in a staging lane, and if the temps get much over 200, the ECM will pull timing.
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Why is everybody ignoring how much the weather becomes a factor?
Shown below are three runs from last year made at the same track on the same day with the same tires and same tune, with the only difference being that it got colder as the night went on.
Why is everybody ignoring how much the weather becomes a factor?
Because YOU'RE talking about gaining 1 mph and .3. The OP's results are off by 3-5 mph, and his E.T.'s are off my .7 or more. The weather MAY play a factor, but it ain't responsible for 3-5 mph.
Again, my MUFF's ONLY LS2 went 12.8@111 at 4500' elevation w/a 7000' DA. How can I be driving faster at "7000'", stock, then the OP is at sea level with intake, tune, and exhaust? The OP is missing horsepower.
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Because YOU'RE talking about gaining 1 mph and .3. The OP's results are off by 3-5 mph, and his E.T.'s are off my .7 or more. The weather MAY play a factor, but it ain't responsible for 3-5 mph.
Again, my MUFF's ONLY LS2 went 12.8@111 at 4500' elevation w/a 7000' DA. How can I be driving faster at "7000'", stock, then the OP is at sea level with intake, tune, and exhaust? The OP is missing horsepower.
You can be driving faster at 7000’ than the OP is for the same reason that I regularly beat cars with nitrous, blowers and turbos making a whole lot more horsepower than I was at the time with my LS2 – it’s not about how much you make but what you can effectively get to the ground.
In addition to the DA being a factor, I raced a guy on New Year’s Day who had very similar 1/8th mile times to the OP and despite having a blower his times were rather underwhelming because he simply wasn’t hooking when he launched the car.
I scan 99% of my runs at the track with HP Tuners and when I go back through them later to see how the car did, if I don’t hook properly I can pretty much discount that particular run as being an indicator of the car’s overall performance.
Unless the OP has a scan to accompany his time or several witnesses who swear up and down that he hooked properly you’re not really making an apples to apples comparison.
You can be driving faster at 7000’ than the OP is for the same reason that I regularly beat cars with nitrous, blowers and turbos making a whole lot more horsepower than I was at the time with my LS2 – it’s not about how much you make but what you can effectively get to the ground.
In addition to the DA being a factor, I raced a guy on New Year’s Day who had very similar 1/8th mile times to the OP and despite having a blower his times were rather underwhelming because he simply wasn’t hooking when he launched the car.
I scan 99% of my runs at the track with HP Tuners and when I go back through them later to see how the car did, if I don’t hook properly I can pretty much discount that particular run as being an indicator of the car’s overall performance.
Unless the OP has a scan to accompany his time or several witnesses who swear up and down that he hooked properly you’re not really making an apples to apples comparison.
I know. You're talking about "hook" though, which = ET. If he said that he ran a 13.xx at 115, I'd say that he needs to learn how to drive his car. But he's trapping 110, with mods. I'm trapping 110 w/o mods, and with a 50+ hp MINIMUM (more like 100 hp if you use the DA) deficit from stock. Regardless of driving (his car is an auto to boot), he ought to be trapping at least 113, but more like 115, IMO no matter HOW he comes out of the hole.
Well that's pretty conclusive. Put 'er on a dyno. You should be trapping 5 mph faster, regardless of driving or "weather", at your elevation, w/your mods.