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You would be amazed at how much difference not only un-sprung weight changes the way the car responds. Not only that you are talking rotational weight, and any one that has done a lightweight clutch can tell you, that will dramatically affect how quickly the car can accelerate.
The C6Z brakes do work very well for street use, but they are not in the same league as the StopTech or Brembo kits.
I probably wouldn't be amazed because I don't track my car, so I probably wouldn't tell enough of a difference to constitute spending $4k or more on brakes (i.e. Brembo would be a lot more).
On a side note, I have still YET to see any proof that the StopTech or Brembos are actually superior to anything else. See my thread above, how am I supposed to believe the manufacturer's word that their brakes are better, and fan boys for Brembo are always going to say anything less is crap. I haven't seen any videos or numbers where back to back runs on the same day/same car/same driver, with NEW stock brakes vs. brembo bbk vs. NEW z06 bbk vs. stoptech bbk have been done.
Anything anyone says, is speculation. Even if someone says "in their experience" the Stop Techs or Brembos "brake quicker", whos to say it didn't have anything to do with changing to SS lines? There are so many factors, and no hard proof that your money is even well spent.
Since there is no proof and evidence, at this point it's just what everyone believes. And just like a religion, people are willing to back up their Brake Beliefs to the death. So be it, but nobody has #s so I don't care.
Uh yeah, I do know about that haha. I went from a stock LS7 setup to a aluminum fly wheel McLeod RST setup...holy crap. When in or out of gear this car revs up SO much faster. I went from 67 lbs on the end of my crank down to 45 lbs. Also the diameter of the pressure plate is much smaller than that of the stocker so the centripetal force effect isnt as drastic as it was before. When im at 2k rpm and I lay in the gas, the rear tires are so much "more likely" to break loose as an effect of the motor reving up so much faster. Its almost TOO light for the street, but I enjoy the wildness of the light weight clutch. Makes me want to get light weight rims.
But to summarize, WAY noticeable, WAY lighter, HUGE improvement over stock. I personally hate the way the pedal feels in this RST but Im getting used to the fact it feels like a clutch out of a Civic (yes its that easy to push the pedal, lighter than stock i swear).
Do you have any timeslips with before and after runs with the new clutch? I know LW clutches and flywheels allow the vehicle to rev up faster but the qoute was..."DRAMATICALLY AFFECT ACCELERATION". A dramatic change in acceleration is proveable on paper with substancial # reductions.
You would be lucky to get a tenth or so in the 1/4 with the new clutch. They are a well worth while mod but not the "dramatic" magic bullet that was implied, thats all I was trying to say.
Do you have any timeslips with before and after runs with the new clutch? I know LW clutches and flywheels allow the vehicle to rev up faster but the qoute was..."DRAMATICALLY AFFECT ACCELERATION". A dramatic change in acceleration is proveable on paper with substancial # reductions.
You would be lucky to get a tenth or so in the 1/4 with the new clutch. They are a well worth while mod but not the "dramatic" magic bullet that was implied, thats all I was trying to say.
Ah I hear ya. Sadly, I don't, and I couldn't be more upset. I didn't get a dyno because I was under a time constraint because I wanted to go to the track, however I don't have a before time slip as the old clutch was acting up so I didn't go ahead of time haha. I have to say though, everyone who has been in the car, and of course myself included, its ssoo freaking noticeable. But yeah, in terms of et, of course you aren't losing a half of a second, I'd argue .1-.2 though. Thats assuming you can get a good launch out of the light weight one, because they sure don't have that nice launch feeling of the stocker.
Dont mean to Hijack but how did you get Zo6 brakes to fit behind those wheels? I have ZO6 repros with 57mm offset on 18x9.5 front and was told I would need a 1/4 spacer to make the Zo6 wheels fit. I want to switch to the 09 Zo6 spyder wheels in the same offset and still need the spacer. How is it that your wheels make it work?
It's been 3 years this month that I installed the Z06 brakes and wheels. They are 18x9.5 and 19x11's. I wish I could remember the correct offest, but, instead of guessing, and giving a wrong answer, call Corvette Garage, a forum vendor. They have the info, and the wheels to make this work. A great mod.
Fam
Hey, I dont need new brakes yet but I want to upgrade my 2008 C6 Z51 from its factory brakes to the WCC Z06 Big Brake upgrade kit and Im getting mixed messages. Some ppl say because of the Z51 package the kit can fit and I do not have to upgrade my tire size from 18x19 to 19x20. WCC said it wont fit and I have to buy tires and wheels in 19x20, 3000.00. I have friends and the local corvette club are telling me it can fit and that I have to find someone who can put it on. Has anyone done this or knows of anyone who can guide me in the right direction. How much of a role does the one inch in the front and the 2 iches in the rear play.
From my research these are the specs:
Front Wheels measure 18"x8.5" (for standard C6)
Rear Wheels measure 19"x10" (for standard C6
Front Wheels measure 18"x9.5" (for Z06)
Rear Wheels measure 19"x12" (for Z06)
My buddy has 2007 coupe with a wide body kit on it. He has the CCW505 wheels.
Specs--
18x10 front
19x13 rear
He has the z06 brake/rotors on it, but again he has the wide body to accommodate for the wider wheel.
BTW: Don’t do business with West Coast Corvettes. I've had below par service from them on several occasions and even after escalating, the management team just doesn't get it -- we are paying good money for their product, so would it hurt to be courteous to clients!!? Stay away---stay far away!
Ace Alloy makes a wheel series called Slick. The 18x9.5/19x11 with 57/73mm offsets will clear Z brakes with 0 spacers and no use for longer wheels studs. They will also stay in or at the stock base fender line.
I got heat from people cause I didnt spend 5-6k on a Brembo/Stoptech kit. Going from driving and getting used to the base size calipers and ebc pads and slotted/drilled rotors to the Z brakes, stainless lines, and motul oil I have to press the pedal in a mere fraction which is a helllll of a difference over stock. I guess you can say its also my contribution to try and keep chevy alive.
I installed Z06 Brakes and the only thing I would add to the discussion is, use the OEM Calipers but go with aftermarket rotors that are plated. You will eliminate the rust problem and you have options on cross drilled, slotted or both, types of rotors. Contact Forum Vendor Jimmy P, at AtomicAutoStore for details/prices.
Fitting wheels/tires that stay inside the stock C6 fenders and don't rub, requires the absolutely correct offset. 18's and 19's will work, you do not have to go to 19/20's.
Corvette Garage sells the Ace Slick wheel that is similar to the OEM Z06 (they call it Z07) but if you want a better forged wheel, CCW is the way to go.
Just my $.02.
Last edited by Knob Jockey; May 16, 2009 at 04:53 AM.
What are the plus and minus of drilled vs. slotted rotors?
I have an 09 C6 with Z51 brakes, one downside of drilled that I notice has nothing to do with stopping. The drilled holes retain brake dust and when the vehicle is washed the brake dust drips out and lands on the wheel. Requires extra effort to make sure you wash out the dust with some pressure. I assume slots would not have this same cosmetic issue.
Really looking for the technical issues of drilled vs slots.
What are the plus and minus of drilled vs. slotted rotors?
I have an 09 C6 with Z51 brakes, one downside of drilled that I notice has nothing to do with stopping. The drilled holes retain brake dust and when the vehicle is washed the brake dust drips out and lands on the wheel. Requires extra effort to make sure you wash out the dust with some pressure. I assume slots would not have this same cosmetic issue.
Really looking for the technical issues of drilled vs slots.
Drilled rotors are more susceptible to cracking and theoretically will run a bit cooler (due to the "vents" the holes provide). Another downside is that you effectively lose surface area.
Slotted rotors were originally a remedy to brake pad "gassing" issues. Modern pads don't have this issue. Slotted rotors also have some ability to "clean" the pads to some extent, although I don't know how effective they are.
If you're tracking the car, blanks or slotted is the way to go. There is another alternative that is kind of in between drilled and slotted, dimpled. This is where there is an indentation, but the lack of an actual hole means the rotor won't develop cracks (or shouldn't). Personally, I run slotted on my other car and I stay away from drilled rotors.
I would go as far to say, that unless you are SERIOUSLY tracking the car, there's no point in going with Brembo or Stop Tech. Those are VERY expensive, and you're basically paying for 22lb less unsprung weight and a little bit better stopping. It just does not make sense to me, if it's just a street driven car. That said, I am going with Z06 brakes for the looks.
The difference between Brembo and OEM is very noticable - not just "a little bit". All one need do is run your car extremely hard focusing on braking whenever possible, similar to a comp RR event and one will quickly realize the difference. Cannot speak for Stop Tech but would assume similar results. The pad of course would make a difference but I no longer experience fading as I did with Z06 OEM versus Brembo's. However, they are expensive. If you race comp , appreciate the best, or have the extra $$ defintely go with Brembo or alike.
Hard #'s - No. Very obvious feeling of quicker,even, smoother braking in the worst of conditions - definitely yes!
Contact Pfadt racing and ask. They are well known for RR competitively and (although I dont know for certain) I would bet my bottom $$ they are not running OEM. I would also give LG some credit.
I probably wouldn't be amazed because I don't track my car, so I probably wouldn't tell enough of a difference to constitute spending $4k or more on brakes (i.e. Brembo would be a lot more).
On a side note, I have still YET to see any proof that the StopTech or Brembos are actually superior to anything else. See my thread above, how am I supposed to believe the manufacturer's word that their brakes are better, and fan boys for Brembo are always going to say anything less is crap. I haven't seen any videos or numbers where back to back runs on the same day/same car/same driver, with NEW stock brakes vs. brembo bbk vs. NEW z06 bbk vs. stoptech bbk have been done.
Anything anyone says, is speculation. Even if someone says "in their experience" the Stop Techs or Brembos "brake quicker", whos to say it didn't have anything to do with changing to SS lines? There are so many factors, and no hard proof that your money is even well spent.
Since there is no proof and evidence, at this point it's just what everyone believes. And just like a religion, people are willing to back up their Brake Beliefs to the death. So be it, but nobody has #s so I don't care.
A tire's grip on the road surface is the first thing that determines stopping distance, suspension is second as all modern braking systems can lock up the tires. The StopTech web site will tell you how little difference a larger diameter rotor makes. A BBK provides the mass to handle the heat so you can have consistent braking, i.e. no fade, in a race track situation. It also does other things to mitigate what excess heat does to a braking system. (An aggressive pad can start brake torque quicker and is measurable, but most people don't run the pads on the street.)
Last edited by User 81424; May 17, 2009 at 08:05 AM.