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Changing Spark Plugs.. Input Please

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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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Default Changing Spark Plugs.. Input Please

i am wondering if there is a general concensus for plugs.
i would like to know if there is a particular brand, heat range and gap that most use. i am not looking for some silly claim of additional power but just a good solid plug to run with my upgrades.

i have ac delcos in there now and they are a nice light brown but some of the diodes seem to be wearing away which of course is changing the gap on those affected.

also very important.. are we supposed to use anti seize on the plugs?

tks, dal
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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I don't have a recommendation on plugs, but definately use some anti sieze on the threads before installing.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 03:37 PM
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NGK TR55 gap is .3X......................... cant remember exactly on the gap. Yes def use anti-seize.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 04:35 PM
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My tuner recomended TR6Ix..One heat range cooler..They come pre-gapped at .040 I believe. The car runs great, a little smoother idle..I would also consider changing wires to MSD superconductor..Good probability you will damage one of the stock ones getting them off..Use some dielectric grease on the plug boots to make them easier to get off next time..
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 04:44 PM
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second the MSD wires. I have them on my Firehawk and they are a nice wire that "snaps" on the plug nice. I used some other brands that basically just slide on the plug and one could never tell if they were on correctly. With those MSD's you will feel it "snap" on. I have also been using NGK plugs for awhile w/o any issues in my LS1.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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Be careful because some spark plugs will cause a service charging system error that will last for months and months and drive you completely insane!!! I would recommend getting new stock plugs.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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I can not believe people are recommending using Anti-sieze on spark plugs. That is a HUGE . I have seen countless instances where a misfire code can be traced back to anti-sieze on the plug. GM does not recommend using it and neither will any good shop. It not only effects the torque value on the plug, but also the grounding of the spark plug body. Never use anti sieze on spark plugs, simply clean the area with compressed air proir to removing the plug and torque the new plugs to 15 LBFT max.

Here is a little paragraph from GM's Service Info about similar chemicals:

Fastener Notice

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque, grounds and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RichieRichZ06
I can not believe people are recommending using Anti-sieze on spark plugs. That is a HUGE . I have seen countless instances where a misfire code can be traced back to anti-sieze on the plug. GM does not recommend using it and neither will any good shop. It not only effects the torque value on the plug, but also the grounding of the spark plug body. Never use anti sieze on spark plugs, simply clean the area with compressed air proir to removing the plug and torque the new plugs to 15 LBFT max.

Here is a little paragraph from GM's Service Info about similar chemicals:

Fastener Notice

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque, grounds and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
See ya learn something everyday.. I never knew that.. I just put new plugs in my bike...guess what I put on the threads.. I'll know better the next time , especially when the Vette is ready for plugs.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DAL01
i am wondering if there is a general concensus for plugs.
i would like to know if there is a particular brand, heat range and gap that most use. i am not looking for some silly claim of additional power but just a good solid plug to run with my upgrades.

i have ac delcos in there now and they are a nice light brown but some of the diodes seem to be wearing away which of course is changing the gap on those affected.

also very important.. are we supposed to use anti seize on the plugs?

tks, dal
If your engine is stock, stick with the correct AC Delco plugs. I assume you meant "electrodes" and not "diodes". Th gap is 0.040".

The AC Delco Iridium plugs are very good.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by nwc6
My tuner recomended TR6Ix..One heat range cooler..They come pre-gapped at .040 I believe. The car runs great, a little smoother idle..I would also consider changing wires to MSD superconductor..Good probability you will damage one of the stock ones getting them off..Use some dielectric grease on the plug boots to make them easier to get off next time..
with the MSD wire's the stock wire's are crap! car runs better than it ever had after the new wire's!
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RichieRichZ06
I can not believe people are recommending using Anti-seize on spark plugs. That is a HUGE . I have seen countless instances where a misfire code can be traced back to anti-seize on the plug. GM does not recommend using it and neither will any good shop. It not only effects the torque value on the plug, but also the grounding of the spark plug body. Never use anti seize on spark plugs, simply clean the area with compressed air prior to removing the plug and torque the new plugs to 15 LBFT max.

Here is a little paragraph from GM's Service Info about similar chemicals:

Fastener Notice

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque, grounds and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
First time I heard that. Without ant-seize how do you keep the plugs from fusing with the head? I have always heard that you need anti-seize especially with dis similar metals like steel and aluminum. Was that information incorrect? I could have sworn that the service manual for my 2002 Z28 LS1 said to put anti-seize on the plug threads before installing. I guess GM found that caused an issue later? Thanks for the updated information.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by CMY SIX
with the MSD wire's the stock wire's are crap!
Really? Everything I've seen and read says the stock wires are excellent, just as good if not better.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike02Z
First time I heard that. Without ant-seize how do you keep the plugs from fusing with the head? I have always heard that you need anti-seize especially with dis similar metals like steel and aluminum. :
That's what anit-seize was made for, and used by mechanics for a jillion years.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 03:19 PM
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I just spoke with my buddy who is an ASE certified tech for GM and he said you do want to use anti-seize on the threads of your spark plugs, just don't go crazy and get the product near the tip.

I always have and will continue to do so. NGK TR-55's gapped at .045

Last edited by Neumonic2002; Aug 8, 2009 at 04:01 PM.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 03:55 PM
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I can tell you I used anti-seize it on my 2002 LS1 Z28 and put a lot of miles on that car after I put plugs in and never had an issue. I did only put a dab on and only on the threads. I also went with the NKG TR55's and probably will when the vettes plugs need changing.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 04:03 PM
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same here, a dab will do!

Getting ready to do plugs and wires just for the hell of it. MSD wires and the NGK's..
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike02Z
First time I heard that. Without ant-seize how do you keep the plugs from fusing with the head? I have always heard that you need anti-seize especially with dis similar metals like steel and aluminum. Was that information incorrect? I could have sworn that the service manual for my 2002 Z28 LS1 said to put anti-seize on the plug threads before installing. I guess GM found that caused an issue later? Thanks for the updated information.
Most plugs today are plated and/or have dry film lubricants applied to the threads to prevent corrosion between an aluminum head and spark plugs. Adding anti-seize (i) increases electrical resistance between the head and spark plug, (ii) lowers thermal conductivity between the head and plug (effectively changing the heat range of the plug) and (iii) makes it easier to over torque the plug and damage aluminum threads.

Also, plugs are cheap. Don't leave them in the head for 100,000 miles and you will not have a problem if they were installed correctly.

EDIT: For everyone using anti-seize on spark plugs (living in the 1960s? ), you might consider the recommendations of spark plug manufacturers. For example:

"Champion recommends that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory. Next, install the spark plugs finger tight and, it using a taper seat spark plug, use a ratchet to rotate 1/16 of a turn. If using a gasket seat type spark plug, after installing finger tight, turn 1/4 to 5/8 of a turn. If this procedure is followed, spark plugs will not back out nor will they seize in the cylinder head."

"NGK specifically states do not use anti-seize."

"Autolite -We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Anti seize compounds have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing.

Anti-seize on the threads of your spark plugs will slow down the rate of heat transfer from the plug to the head. The worst place to use it is on the tapered seat, which is where the most heat transfer occurs between the spark plug and the cylinder head. Even just a small amount of anti-seize is the equivalent of using a hotter heat range spark plug."

"AC Delco - Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. This will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal."

Last edited by WHT; Aug 9, 2009 at 10:08 AM.
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To Changing Spark Plugs.. Input Please

Old Aug 8, 2009 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by chsmith112
Be careful because some spark plugs will cause a service charging system error that will last for months and months and drive you completely insane!!! I would recommend getting new stock plugs.
I agree totally... just went through that myself. Noise gets induced into the systems by NGK's for sure and causes charge system fault issues. It was hard for me to believe it, but it was true.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike02Z
First time I heard that. Without ant-seize how do you keep the plugs from fusing with the head? I have always heard that you need anti-seize especially with dis similar metals like steel and aluminum. Was that information incorrect? I could have sworn that the service manual for my 2002 Z28 LS1 said to put anti-seize on the plug threads before installing. I guess GM found that caused an issue later? Thanks for the updated information.
Originally Posted by Wayne88
That's what anit-seize was made for, and used by mechanics for a jillion years.
Originally Posted by Neumonic2002
I just spoke with my buddy who is an ASE certified tech for GM and he said you do want to use anti-seize on the threads of your spark plugs, just don't go crazy and get the product near the tip.

I always have and will continue to do so. NGK TR-55's gapped at .045


Read that other post and dont think that applies to Spark Plugs. Never heard the word "fastener" in relation to plugs.

Whenever to have disimilar metals in contact with each other, the less noble metal will be sacraficial and corrode. Many times I have seen aluminum head threads come out with plugs. USE ANTI SEIZE
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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Default There I went and wasted my money again!

Like a dummy I went and bought the shop manuals shortly after buying my new C6 Z as I have done for the 7 perviously owned Vettes.

I like to read and/or review procedures that I do to my toys so that they will last and perform for a long long time.
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