Changing Spark Plugs.. Input Please
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Mississippi
I have driven LS1's for the last 10 years. I have heard for a long time now that NGK's have a special coating on them and don't require anti seize. Read about it here:
http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/con...SparkPlugs.pdf
With other brands of plugs, I would use a little anti seize. I have used NGK's with no anti seize without any problems.
http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/con...SparkPlugs.pdf
With other brands of plugs, I would use a little anti seize. I have used NGK's with no anti seize without any problems.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 221
Likes: 4
Now that NGK bulletin makes sence.
I'm an automotive instructor and I've never heard of any problem from using antiseize on plugs that do not have a "special antiseize coating". AND it appears that the only problem is really over torquing due to extra lubricity (special coating plus antiseize). Now, IF the correct plug is used and antiseize is used with no special coating I don't see any possibility of ANY problem. There are factors other than heat range related to a plug that could cause electrical interference. I say if you have dissimilar metals (head and plug) and no special coating on the plug, you BETTER use an antiseize.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,537
Likes: 1
From: Southlake Texas
I'm an automotive instructor and I've never heard of any problem from using antiseize on plugs that do not have a "special antiseize coating". AND it appears that the only problem is really over torquing due to extra lubricity (special coating plus antiseize). Now, IF the correct plug is used and antiseize is used with no special coating I don't see any possibility of ANY problem. There are factors other than heat range related to a plug that could cause electrical interference. I say if you have dissimilar metals (head and plug) and no special coating on the plug, you BETTER use an antiseize.
BTW, the problem with anti-seize and over torquing is not related to the presence of plating or dry films PLUS anti-seize. It is caused by the anti-seize.
"Champion recommends that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory. Next, install the spark plugs finger tight and, it using a taper seat spark plug, use a ratchet to rotate 1/16 of a turn. If using a gasket seat type spark plug, after installing finger tight, turn 1/4 to 5/8 of a turn. If this procedure is followed, spark plugs will not back out nor will they seize in the cylinder head."
"NGK specifically states do not use anti-seize."
"Autolite -We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Anti seize compounds have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing.
Anti-seize on the threads of your spark plugs will slow down the rate of heat transfer from the plug to the head. The worst place to use it is on the tapered seat, which is where the most heat transfer occurs between the spark plug and the cylinder head. Even just a small amount of anti-seize is the equivalent of using a hotter heat range spark plug."
"AC Delco - Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. This will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal."
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,684
Likes: 107
From: Opelika Alabama
that's funny there's 6 posts here pointing to the MSD's. I put RR's in and removed the plugs a couple of times to adjust the valves. I developed a misfire and thought I had done something wrong with the set up/ lash, I checked everything including the continuity of the wires all seemed fine. as a last resort I changed wires, THE CAR HAS NEVER IDLED/RUN THIS GOOD SINCE I BOUGHT IT! 30 years as a mechanic/millwright, and I have never had a bad plug wire including those sets you put together yourself!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 193
Likes: 1
well i wish to thank everyone for their input. it turned out that the use of anti seize was a bigger issue on this thread than the plugs themselves. 
anyway here is what i decided to do after reading comments from all and speaking with the manufacturer.
i am going with a set of plugs from NGK and using their TR5 IX. they said the only difference between the TR5 and the TR55 was the gap.
TR55 come pre set at .060 and TR5 come pre set at .040. according to chevy .040 is the proper gap hense the decision to go with the TR5. also decided to go with the "IX" version which is their Iridium plug. NGK also states not to use anti seize compound. they claim their plug is designed to work with aluminum heads and is made or coated (can't remember which) of a different metal to ensure the plugs do not stick.
i already have upgraded wires so this should do it.
again i thank you all for the input.
tks, dal
anyway here is what i decided to do after reading comments from all and speaking with the manufacturer.
i am going with a set of plugs from NGK and using their TR5 IX. they said the only difference between the TR5 and the TR55 was the gap.
TR55 come pre set at .060 and TR5 come pre set at .040. according to chevy .040 is the proper gap hense the decision to go with the TR5. also decided to go with the "IX" version which is their Iridium plug. NGK also states not to use anti seize compound. they claim their plug is designed to work with aluminum heads and is made or coated (can't remember which) of a different metal to ensure the plugs do not stick.
i already have upgraded wires so this should do it.
again i thank you all for the input.
tks, dal
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 26
From: Miami
I agree and can speak from experience...
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,790
Likes: 29
From: STL MO
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Cool deal Dal.
Be sure to check the gap on those new plugs and be careful as the tips are fragile in regards to the typical gap tool, don't pry on the tip if they are a little under the .040 gap you desire..
Be sure to check the gap on those new plugs and be careful as the tips are fragile in regards to the typical gap tool, don't pry on the tip if they are a little under the .040 gap you desire..
