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If you have a BAP, first check the fuse leading to the BAP. My fuse melted from the heat of the SC and the fuel system crapped out. Replace the fuse and all was well again.
Awesome! It's good you decided to question the dealer, they would have replaced a fuse and charged you $2,700. Hell, they may have missed the fuse altogether and replaced the pump and then found the fuse.
Awesome! It's good you decided to question the dealer, they would have replaced a fuse and charged you $2,700. Hell, they may have missed the fuse altogether and replaced the pump and then found the fuse.
That's the way they work. Charge the $2700 and don't mention the fuse.
I have learned quite a bit on this forum. I bet anton 28 learned about $2700 worth, from someone with similar experience and the graciousness to tell him. Great work
Mine unfortunately was the pump and I did the swap to the Z06 pump.
The pump never fully died though. It would overheat if I was getting on it with under 1/4 tank of gas. Our pumps need the fuel level high enough to cool the pump. I couldnt deal with this non-sense so I opted to also add a parallel fuel pump/system that turns on by a hobbs switch at 5psi and adds to the total fuel flow eliminating the need for a BAP. Redundant pumps also get you home is one of the two fails because you have a shorting toggle switch just in case. If the stock pump dies, you flip the switch and the outboard pump gets you home.
The reason you dont run these pumps all the time outside the tank is that they would heat the fuel.
It was great to hear that someone saved some coin. 2700 is a lot for the job in question, and I would avoid them at any cost.
I would also mail a letter to the owner of the dealership to let him know:
1-You will never buy a car from them.
2-They misdiagnosed the problem by 2699.75 bucks.
3-The fuel pump is a 6-8 hour job and thus should be 1000-1200 with labor and parts.
Mine unfortunately was the pump and I did the swap to the Z06 pump.
The pump never fully died though. It would overheat if I was getting on it with under 1/4 tank of gas. Our pumps need the fuel level high enough to cool the pump. I couldnt deal with this non-sense so I opted to also add a parallel fuel pump/system that turns on by a hobbs switch at 5psi and adds to the total fuel flow eliminating the need for a BAP. Redundant pumps also get you home is one of the two fails because you have a shorting toggle switch just in case. If the stock pump dies, you flip the switch and the outboard pump gets you home.
The reason you dont run these pumps all the time outside the tank is that they would heat the fuel.
It was great to hear that someone saved some coin. 2700 is a lot for the job in question, and I would avoid them at any cost.
I would also mail a letter to the owner of the dealership to let him know:
1-You will never buy a car from them.
2-They misdiagnosed the problem by 2699.75 bucks.
3-The fuel pump is a 6-8 hour job and thus should be 1000-1200 with labor and parts.
Spin,
Did you have to do any modification to the tank (or basket) or did the Z06 pump just slip right in?
What external pump did you go with? Did you do a write up on this by any chance?
Any further details would be appreciated. I am replacing my in-tank pump and am really hesitant on keeping the BAP. Although an additional $1500 for an external system is overkill considering I'm only running 7lbs of boost.