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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 12:11 PM
  #21  
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I would say you need to figure out what you want.

You can go Nitrous for quick/cheap HP.

Go Forced Induction for big power.

Or, build a naturally aspirated beast with full bolt on and Head/Cam package.

Personally, I opted for the naturally aspirated beast, spent approx. 5 - 6K and have 453RWHP LS2. Forced Induction IMO is the ultimate power but I think I would have spent substantially more $$, maybe I will go that route in the future.

Last edited by ALLBlackC6; Nov 3, 2009 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 12:58 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ALLBlackC6
I would say you need to figure out what you want.

You can go Nitrous for quick/cheap HP.

Go Forced Induction for big power.

Or, build a naturally aspirated beast with full bolt on and Head/Cam package.

Personally, I opted for the naturally aspirated beast, spent approx. 5 - 6K and have 453RWHP LS2. Forced Induction IMO is the ultimate power but I think I would have spent substantially more $$, maybe I will go that route in the future.
From the pricing I've done, I'd spend about $7k on the blower... the supercharger itself is roughly $5,200. Then there's the installation, tune, and new tires.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 01:07 PM
  #23  
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If all you want is 100 rwhp, staying NA would be your cheapest option. You can get to 450 rwhp with a CAI, LT Headers, healthy cam such as Spin's cam or TSP torquer v2 (both 232/234) and fast 90 intake. If you leave your exhaust stock it won't be too loud and the driveability will still be good.

After you get used to that setup and want more your options would be heads, gears, maybe spray. After all that to get to 500+ you're gonna wish you just went SC in the first place in which you'd basically be adding 200rwhp for around 7K installed and tuned.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 01:16 PM
  #24  
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You will still need headers, cai, full exhaust system to see full potential of the blower.
You can have ONLY the blower on your stock engine, but exhaust flow will be too restrictive.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 01:48 PM
  #25  
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The superchargers come with their own intake system and the catback exhausts make little to no power with or without a supercharger. Headers would be a good idea for added performance, but are not necessary. Many California residents run chargers with stock exhaust manifolds for emission reasons and still easily crack 500rwhp.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 02:44 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by KevinZ51C6
The superchargers come with their own intake system and the catback exhausts make little to no power with or without a supercharger. Headers would be a good idea for added performance, but are not necessary. Many California residents run chargers with stock exhaust manifolds for emission reasons and still easily crack 500rwhp.


Although we have plenty of customers who like the long tubes...
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 03:00 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ls2kev
Without the use of forced induction or nitrous...
Reasoning: I'd like more power but not soo much that I have to start rebuilding the engine to handle the HP additions.

What are a few "simple" mods that are relative inexpensive to add around 100 hp? On my list is a cam, headers, CAI. That'll give me about 60 I guess.

How can I get a little more? I did some googling and getting a new (or "ported" whatever that means) intake manifold would add some?
Gears, either 3.15's or 3.42's. They won't give you any additional horsepower but will feel like you got 150.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 06:28 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by thesubfloor
Gears, either 3.15's or 3.42's. They won't give you any additional horsepower but will feel like you got 150.
Feel eh?
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 06:35 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ls2kev
Feel eh?
Yep, they get you into the power band of the engine more quickly making the car faster overall as compared to someone with stock gears.

A buddy of mine just installed 3.42’s in his 08 A6 and said the difference was like night and day when he road raced it this past weekend.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 06:37 PM
  #30  
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more mods = more $, more power = more suporting mods = more $.

These cars are money pits and most people spend all that money and never drive it. LOL. What are you going to do track the car or race for $$, other than that who cares. Invest it.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 07:07 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
You'll still want headers, although for a 100 HP goal you don't have to have them. For a mild S/C application you do not need a built bottom end. Clutch and rear are subject to the same abuse whether you add 100 HP from an S/C or NA. Either way, plan on ditching runflats and getting better rubber.

If you stay NA, you might also consider gears as part of the budgeting process. They don't add any HP, but they definitely make the car quicker and lot more fun to drive. [Yes, you can add gears with FI too.. ]
any suggestions for good non runflats?
Bridgestone's Potenza? Kumho Ecsta SPT? Kumho Ecsta XS ? BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW 2?

Last edited by ls2kev; Nov 3, 2009 at 07:11 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 07:14 PM
  #32  
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I know you can get 100rwhp from a cam swap, CAI, headers and tune and go over that number with a ported FAST because I did it.

BUT, if I could go back and do it all over again I would go with a proven S/C kit and wouldn't think twice about it. Mainly because i miss the driveability of my "old" car. Add another 50 plus hp with s/c for the same money and you have an incredible value without alot of headaches.

And for those naysayers that say you can't get the power down without a wheel/tire swap, I can't get my 335 Nitto NT05's to stick with just 450rwhp.. so just upgrade your stock rubber with some Toyo R888 and learn how to drive your beast..
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 07:15 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by KevinZ51C6
If all you want is 100 rwhp, staying NA would be your cheapest option. You can get to 450 rwhp with a CAI, LT Headers, healthy cam such as Spin's cam or TSP torquer v2 (both 232/234) and fast 90 intake. If you leave your exhaust stock it won't be too loud and the driveability will still be good.

After you get used to that setup and want more your options would be heads, gears, maybe spray. After all that to get to 500+ you're gonna wish you just went SC in the first place in which you'd basically be adding 200rwhp for around 7K installed and tuned.


didn't read the thread before i posted
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 07:29 PM
  #34  
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100hp is 100hp and the car doesnt know how or why its being made as far as stress to the driveline.

So a 75 shot (100 shot from nitrous is far more TQ than 100hp from a supercharger or 100hp from a H/C job) from nitrous and a 6lb boost from a supercharger is just as hard on the driveline as a head cam package will be. You arent saving the driveline from anything if you get 500rwhp from a H/C job compared to a 500rwhp supercharger install.

As far as cost, the H/C job is cheaper but it isnt as easily reversed when you want to sell the car. Take it from me, a heavily modded car is nearly impossible to sell for anything above its base value if you can even get a buyer.

If I was to sell my car, it would take a return to stock and then trade it in.

Last edited by SpinMonster; Nov 3, 2009 at 07:31 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 07:35 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
100hp is 100hp and the car doesnt know how or why its being made as far as stress to the driveline.

So a 75 shot (100 shot from nitrous is far more TQ than 100hp from a supercharger or 100hp from a H/C job) from nitrous and a 6lb boost from a supercharger is just as hard on the driveline as a head cam package will be. You arent saving the driveline from anything if you get 500rwhp from a H/C job compared to a 500rwhp supercharger install.

As far as cost, the H/C job is cheaper but it isnt as easily reversed when you want to sell the car. Take it from me, a heavily modded car is nearly impossible to sell for anything above its base value if you can even get a buyer.

If I was to sell my car, it would take a return to stock and then trade it in.

I'm not a fan of nitrous
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 08:46 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ls2kev
any suggestions for good non runflats?
Bridgestone's Potenza? Kumho Ecsta SPT? Kumho Ecsta XS ? BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW 2?
For stock C6 rims, 3 most popular tires seem to be:

* Toyo R888 (best grip by far, but short tire life and risk of hydroplaning in a heavy downpour)

* Michelin PS2 (best all around street tire in terms of balancing grip, wet safety, noise, and treadlife, but very expensive)

* Nitto Invos (good street tire, better than runflats in grip wet performance, and comfort with a reasonable price, but 100 HP over stock will easily blow them away in first and second gear). I recently got Invos and they drive nicely, but I haven't been impressed with the grip yet. Better than runflats, but not a lot. That may be due to new tire break in, too much pressure, and/or onset of cooler weather as my Z51 runflats were very slick in cool weather and maybe I just don't remember how bad they were.

There a couple people who have posted decent results with the bridgestones, however, the sample is small. I've never been a real fan of KDW's, so I'll leave it at that. Certainly some people love them.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 09:10 PM
  #37  
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Default A&a kit

You would be surprized and thrilled with one. I'd do that in a minute
before anything else. You could add headers later.
One problem is you would be adding more than 100 hp.
But no problem. I have 15k on my V-3. I drive more highway miles and the INCREASED passing power riduclous and priceless!
I have headers, gears (390w/base stick) with a A&A kit.
I had 578rwhp and 530 rwtq. Before a few changes. No new dyno, but should be in the 605-615hp and 550 tq range.
I installed mine mailed the ecu to Andy for a generic tune. To get to the tuner.
Real bargin on these right now!

Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; Nov 3, 2009 at 09:13 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 01:01 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
Yep...one mod with no other supporting mods required. Stock driveability, near stock fuel economy and more power than the average guy will ever need when and if you want to use it. Drive it like joe-average and it will behave like your stock car. Plant your foot and then hang on..no kidding! If you have the budget I'd say supercharge it and be done with it.

With my C5...I spent thousands on performance mods and didn't break 400HP. So this time around with the C6 I went with the A&A Vortech..no headers, no cam. Just Methanol and the supercharger got me to 547RWHP...
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 01:35 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by ls2kev
I'm not a fan of nitrous
No one was pushing nitrous or any other method of power production on you. The point was that the 100HP you seek is the same stress on the drive line from any source you get it from. You stated you didnt want nitrous or a supercharger because it was too stessful to your driveline when both can be adjusted to the power level.

As far as a supercharger, you can install it for 6500 and keep the power down at 500hp if you want. Afterward it comes off easy and can be resold while a head/cam swap and headers will require the same labor rate to return it to stock.

Its all rediculous anyway since there are so many corvettes out there with no issue at 600rwhp with the stock driveline. Your fear of adding more than 100HP is unwarranted.

If you arent going for a power adder than your thread isnt going to yeild anything other than N/A mods so its heads, cam, headers and a tune. Why bother asking for opinions?

A 224/230 XER 114+2 cam, FAST intake manifold, any ported head, and any header will hit 450rwhp......thats 100HP.

Last edited by SpinMonster; Nov 4, 2009 at 01:41 AM.
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 08:31 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
No one was pushing nitrous or any other method of power production on you. The point was that the 100HP you seek is the same stress on the drive line from any source you get it from. You stated you didnt want nitrous or a supercharger because it was too stessful to your driveline when both can be adjusted to the power level.

As far as a supercharger, you can install it for 6500 and keep the power down at 500hp if you want. Afterward it comes off easy and can be resold while a head/cam swap and headers will require the same labor rate to return it to stock.

Its all rediculous anyway since there are so many corvettes out there with no issue at 600rwhp with the stock driveline. Your fear of adding more than 100HP is unwarranted.

If you arent going for a power adder than your thread isnt going to yeild anything other than N/A mods so its heads, cam, headers and a tune. Why bother asking for opinions?

A 224/230 XER 114+2 cam, FAST intake manifold, any ported head, and any header will hit 450rwhp......thats 100HP.
I am continually impressed with both Spin's knowledge and ability to convey that knowledge. I have never thought of this very obvious fact pattern about adding power via a given method and the resulting stresses on the driveline being the same regardless of the source of said power. Pushes me even closer to F/I!!!

That said, if I were you, I would do what you are doing...gather all the information you can, develop a plan to mod the car using that information and then go for it!!!
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