When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
A hose going to my clutch slave cylinder has been ruptured near the headers. I have not installed any aftermarket headers and it only has 13,000 miles. I cant tell if it is from heat or it could possibly corroded through. Does anyone have a diagram of the clutch slave and master cylinder connections. Where can I find replacment line and a diy post for this?
I have the car jacked up and can not find the coupler yet. Im going to go back and look again...is the coupling coming from the slave or master side of the line
It looks like it isn't the coupler. Here is a picture of it out of the car. The coupler is on the far left.
Looking at your picture, the box area where you show the rupture appears to be in the short rubber section under the silver insulation just where it adapts from metal to rubber (red circle).
It looks like it isn't the coupler. Here is a picture of it out of the car. The coupler is on the far left
Looking at your picture, the box area where you show the rupture appears to be in the short rubber section under the silver insulation just where it adapts from metal to rubber (red circle).
yes, the rupture is in the rubber part of the hose. The connection between the metal and rubber is just fine.
I cant beleive that line coming from the slave is all one piece. So it looks like I have 2 options...
1. Replace the slave cylinder ().
2. Cut into the 2 metal ends and insert a new rubber connection via some type of an adaptor.
3. Replace the line going into the slave cylinder.
Fix it the right way with a new line at least, fluid fires are not as fun as a ill thought out repair.
Like I said, I don't believe you can buy just the line. You have to purchase the whole slave cylinder. Regardless of whether you can or not, it is irrelevant. A new slave is only about $200, but when you factor in where is has to go and what it takes to get there, then that $200 turns into $2000. That's a lot of money to put out right before Christmas. Maybe you should educate yourself before posting because a proper hydraulic line repair is designed to handle a lot more pressure than is generated by the clutch system. It's not like he's putting a paper towel and duct tape on it.
I gave him a perfectly usable line from a slave cylinder that only had 2000 miles on it. If the repair doesn't work out, he's got a line that can be installed.
I gave him a perfectly usable line from a slave cylinder that only had 2000 miles on it. If the repair doesn't work out, he's got a line that can be installed.
Update... I have measured the outer diameter of the pipe to be 6mm. It is becoming a worldwide egg hunt to find a 6mm compression fitting! I think it will be worth it to replace the rubber hose with a nice steel braided hose, so this problem does not happen again.
I gave him a perfectly usable line from a slave cylinder that only had 2000 miles on it. If the repair doesn't work out, he's got a line that can be installed.
What a nice thing to do.
Makes me proud to be a born and bred St. Louis native...first 35 years anyway. I miss the great folks in St. Louis.
I finished the fix a couple of days ago. Ended up replacing the rubber hose with a better steel braided hose from APS. Then, attached the hose using compression adapters and installed a fire sleeve over everything. After this, I bleed the system from the reservoir and the fluid is a clean as crystal (following "the Ranger method).
I also ended up changing the oil for the my first time owning the car. So now the clutch and the engine seem to be smoother than before.
Prokta ,
I am considering doing this , of course because it is a lot easier than going into the bell housing from the rear ...
1. How has this held up ?
2. Can you list the parts you used and where you got them ? .