Well I had my 05 vette lowered on stock bolts in August and they told me I needed an alignment. I got new Invo's in October and decided I needed get the alignment done right away. I got it done today finally. Are these C6 Z06 specs?

Front
Camber -0.4 On the Left and -.04 on the Right
Caster 7.1 Left and 6.9 Right
Toe 0.05 Left and 0.05 Right

Rear
Camber -0.2 Left and -0.2 Right
Toe -0.02 Left and -0.01 Right
Total Toe -0.03
Thrust angle -0.01

I told them I wanted Max handling but good tread life that wears evenly. Do this specs sound good? Thanks

 

Sound pretty good, I woulda gone a little more - camber in the front with a little more toe .06-.07 with about a -.8 to -1.0 camber, but what you have will give you better tire wear for sure... Should be good to go with that imo.

Im having Ruf Porsche do mine in Dallas, Im gonna go -1.0 in the front and about -.25-.4 in the back with a tad more toe in and the max amount of caster i can dial in. car will be a little darty, but I like driving a go cart on the street..

 

those specs look good.
as far as the front To get better handling the camber can go more negative "BUT" whenever you do that the tire wear is worse. Perfect tire wear is 0 camber and 0 toe but the things would corner like crap with the camber being that way. The caster is no big deal as long as both sides are even (the old days with the crown in the 2 lane roads we would set the left side higher to compensate but these days equal is the way to go)
Toe needs to be in just a touch and .05 a side is fine but no more hten that.
As far as the rear The toe should be zero but the spec you have is pretty minimal so no big deal. they say setting the rear camber negative will give better handling. I would set all for wheels -.4 camber and .03 toe at each wheel. This will give the best tire wear and an less you are road racing and want alot more handling those camber settings will give you the best of both worlds

 

I'm also running Invo's on my '05/Z51...alignment specs are:
Front
Caster (L) 7.74 (R) 9.97
Camber (both) -0.45
Toe (both) 0.02"/total 0.04"
Rear
Camber (L) -0.48 (R) -0.46
Toe (both) 0.00"
Thrust Angle -0.01

I've found these setting to give me excellent road handling & tire wear. If you regularly track the car, you probably wnat to go more extreme, but for on the road, these specs are very good. I question why you went with the greater front & rear toe....I suspect that will affect tire wear. Also, all the spec sheets I've seen show 0 toe for the rear.

 

well they told me these specs would give me great handling and good tire wear.

 

they are both basically exactly the same. a few hundreths on the toe isnt gonna make or break you. Both of your guys settings will give you good handling and good tire wear. If you want better handling go more negative with the camber on front and keep the toe the same. but i wouldnt recomend it for tire wear especially if you drive on the street with soft invos or equivalent. sounds like you both are getting good advise from your alignment guy

 

I will keep it the same since I payed $175 for the alignment

Thanks for your input

 

when you pulled the car down on what you and others call "lowering bolts" you ruined it from ever having the best handling, those are wedge bolts

 

Huh!?!?

What exactly is the "wedge" part of these bolts????




You can see in the picture above (that I stole from an old thread) that it's just a simple bolt that screws through the leaf spring and has a rubber bushing vulcanized onto the head of the bolt.

You aren't "pulling the car down" at all - you're simply reducing the distance between the leaf spring and the web on the lower control arm where the head of the bolt sits.

I know you're a strong advocate for Chevy having put the ride height at exactly the correct adjustment for optimum handling, but just like the factory alignments (which are notoriously poor), the guys just screw the bolts in there and do a quick ride height measurement and send it on down the assembly line.

Depending on the tires you're running, you may like a radically different alignment, especially on the track, but even for the street. Likewise, many owners may want a different ride height on their car for handling or just looks.

Handling is generally enhanced with a lower CG, so lowering the car might give you much better handling, even with the stock suspension, but especially if you're running different shocks or a coil-over suspension (which you'd adjust entirely differently than with the lowering bolts in the OE leaf springs). If you're adjusting the corner weighting of the car you'll adjust the lowering bolts (better called the "ride height adjustment bolts").

Lowering with the stock leaf spring suspension might reduce shock travel a little, but if you're on the track they're usually fairly smooth so it may not be a factor.

If you are lowering because you like the look better, I don't see anything the matter with that either. I slammed my '05 coupe and loved the look and had no problem with my driveway or speedbumps (from the factory it looked terrible in the back with a more than 3 inch gap between the top of the tire and fender well . I had F55 in it and the ride was great after lowering!! I feel no need to lower my '06 Z06 or '09 ZR1 at all.

So....if someone asks me about lowering I'm glad to tell them how to do it. I see no downside to it all unless you have really lousy roads or big speedbumps or driveway dips to deal with.

Bob