Fuel Pump Replace
Thread Starter
5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Concord CA
Fuel Pump Replace
Yesterday, the dealership garage told me I needed the fuel pump replaced on my 2006 C6 with about 35,000 miles.
Last week, I got my car back from garage after they replaced leaking seals on gas tanks which they had removed about 2 weeks ago to fix / replace the fuel sending unit which had quit working (fuel guage on dash would quit after tank reached halfway mark). This is second time fuel sending unit has needed replacing.
When I dropped the car off two weeks ago to have the fuel sending unit fixed, the fuel pump was good. After picking up the car, engine trouble light came on indicating an emmission problem which turned out to be the leaking seal on the gas tank.
When I dropped off car last week to fix the leaking seal, the fuel pump was working fine. When I picked up the car last Thursday morning from the shop after seal fixed, I drove it to work. Come out after work, push ignition switch, and bad noises come from under the hood. Now garage service advisor tells me the fuel pump needs replacing which he says is a separate problem from the fuel sending unit (I paid $200 deductible under extended warranty) and separate from leaking seal problem (which dealership garage fixed at their cost). They want me to pay another $200 deductible as he says the fuel pump problem is not a result of anything they did previously (although they've taken the gas tanks off and on about 5 times). Like I said, the fuel pumps were good before and coincidentally went bad same day I picked up my car, got into it with car already running when car attendant pulled up, drove to work, came out and that's when the under-the-hood banging started.
What do you think? Normal for fuel pump to need replacing at 35,000 miles? Possibly something garage did when they had fuel tanks off and on while repairing fuel sending unit and repairing emissions / tank seal leak? Interested in your thinking.
Thanks.
Last week, I got my car back from garage after they replaced leaking seals on gas tanks which they had removed about 2 weeks ago to fix / replace the fuel sending unit which had quit working (fuel guage on dash would quit after tank reached halfway mark). This is second time fuel sending unit has needed replacing.
When I dropped the car off two weeks ago to have the fuel sending unit fixed, the fuel pump was good. After picking up the car, engine trouble light came on indicating an emmission problem which turned out to be the leaking seal on the gas tank.
When I dropped off car last week to fix the leaking seal, the fuel pump was working fine. When I picked up the car last Thursday morning from the shop after seal fixed, I drove it to work. Come out after work, push ignition switch, and bad noises come from under the hood. Now garage service advisor tells me the fuel pump needs replacing which he says is a separate problem from the fuel sending unit (I paid $200 deductible under extended warranty) and separate from leaking seal problem (which dealership garage fixed at their cost). They want me to pay another $200 deductible as he says the fuel pump problem is not a result of anything they did previously (although they've taken the gas tanks off and on about 5 times). Like I said, the fuel pumps were good before and coincidentally went bad same day I picked up my car, got into it with car already running when car attendant pulled up, drove to work, came out and that's when the under-the-hood banging started.
What do you think? Normal for fuel pump to need replacing at 35,000 miles? Possibly something garage did when they had fuel tanks off and on while repairing fuel sending unit and repairing emissions / tank seal leak? Interested in your thinking.
Thanks.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 12,094
Likes: 197
From: Colorado Springs, CO
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
The fuel pump and sending unit are sold as a unit. If they in fact got you a new sending unit, they got the new pump with it and it should have been installed as an assembly.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13,592
Likes: 187
From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 791
Likes: 2
From: Stafford Virginia
It's bad enough that they're so incompetent as to have to redo things several times, but when they try to BS you to cover thier own a$$ at your expense, its time to go and report the incident...As a former service writer, I wouldn't have dared to try to charge someone for a fuel pump when I knew I had a mechanic in there several times. It's way to coincidental to even try to justify, they're treating you like a chump!
Instructor
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 211
Likes: 3
From: Dallas, TX
I worked at a dealer as a tech while I was in college, even though it is possible that the pump coincidentally went out I find it hard to believe, if they were the last ones to touch it, (multiple times) who knows what the tech may have done / damaged while he was in there.
It would be a different story if they replaced your spark plugs and then the fuel pump went out (dealers have to deal with those kind of people all the time too, nothing like having a customer say their radio went out a week after you did a brake job and its your fault)
In your case I am surprised the dealership did not step up and take care of it. The fuel level sender went out in my 06 Trailblazer SS at 45K, you could buy it separate from the fuel pump sending unit. I have not replaced the fuel pump or fuel level sender in a C6 yet so I couldn’t tell you if it comes as an assembly only or if you can buy the sender separate from the pump. My 2005 C6 just rolled 60K with no fuel pump issues, my coworkers 2006 C6 just rolled 14K and needed a fuel pump. It all depends on if it was a good day at supplier or not…
It would be a different story if they replaced your spark plugs and then the fuel pump went out (dealers have to deal with those kind of people all the time too, nothing like having a customer say their radio went out a week after you did a brake job and its your fault)
In your case I am surprised the dealership did not step up and take care of it. The fuel level sender went out in my 06 Trailblazer SS at 45K, you could buy it separate from the fuel pump sending unit. I have not replaced the fuel pump or fuel level sender in a C6 yet so I couldn’t tell you if it comes as an assembly only or if you can buy the sender separate from the pump. My 2005 C6 just rolled 60K with no fuel pump issues, my coworkers 2006 C6 just rolled 14K and needed a fuel pump. It all depends on if it was a good day at supplier or not…
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,897
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From: Lone Star State
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 18,396
Likes: 169
I picked up my car on Saturday from having a fuel pump replaced (2005, 46k miles). I was under the impression that the pump, filter, and sending unit was all one unit and was not servicable, only replaceable. I don't think they can repair the sending unit individually (??) . Sounds like someone may be trying to pull a fast one!
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Katy TX
The senders are sold separate from the pump modules, and you can buy the pump modules without the senders. The funny part tho is that the pump module WITH sender was about 50 bucks cheaper than the pump module without the sender.
IF you buy the sender separate then it comes with just the wire clips; you have to pull the old sender's wires out of the connector and put the new ones into the old connector. IF you buy the whole module it just drops in.
Having done the job myself, it is REAL easy to screw up the install, and you have to get it just right otherwise the car isn't happy. Especially the little plastic transfer lines in the tank. When you put one (or both) tanks back in the car you have to be careful of all the little seals and emissions connectors so you don't get a leak. There are 2 (a green and a yellow) O-Rings on the big stainless steel bitch (crossover pipe), that are VERY easy to cut when you're removing or installing the crossover pipe since it is under alot of tension with the tranny still in the car.
There are several places where you could get an emissions leak if the tanks have to come out; there are 2 connections on the filler tube; the main rubber filler hose, and a small plastic emission line that connects to the filler housing where you insert the fuel nozzle. There is a plastic crossover line that connects both tanks, and sits above the big stainless crossover pipe. Lastly there are 3 plastic lines that connect to the carbon canister. If any of these break or have broken connectors you run the risk of an emissions leak. And the car WILL know. Also (this happened to me) even if you re assemble everything perfectly you'll still throw an evap emissions code because the wiring harness connector has oxidation inside it and so reports an out-of-spec value. Because of this I would recommend anyone doing the job to plug-in and unplug each of those connectors 5 or so times just to ensure a good electrical connection.
IF you buy the sender separate then it comes with just the wire clips; you have to pull the old sender's wires out of the connector and put the new ones into the old connector. IF you buy the whole module it just drops in.
Having done the job myself, it is REAL easy to screw up the install, and you have to get it just right otherwise the car isn't happy. Especially the little plastic transfer lines in the tank. When you put one (or both) tanks back in the car you have to be careful of all the little seals and emissions connectors so you don't get a leak. There are 2 (a green and a yellow) O-Rings on the big stainless steel bitch (crossover pipe), that are VERY easy to cut when you're removing or installing the crossover pipe since it is under alot of tension with the tranny still in the car.
There are several places where you could get an emissions leak if the tanks have to come out; there are 2 connections on the filler tube; the main rubber filler hose, and a small plastic emission line that connects to the filler housing where you insert the fuel nozzle. There is a plastic crossover line that connects both tanks, and sits above the big stainless crossover pipe. Lastly there are 3 plastic lines that connect to the carbon canister. If any of these break or have broken connectors you run the risk of an emissions leak. And the car WILL know. Also (this happened to me) even if you re assemble everything perfectly you'll still throw an evap emissions code because the wiring harness connector has oxidation inside it and so reports an out-of-spec value. Because of this I would recommend anyone doing the job to plug-in and unplug each of those connectors 5 or so times just to ensure a good electrical connection.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13,592
Likes: 187
From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
The senders are sold separate from the pump modules, and you can buy the pump modules without the senders. The funny part tho is that the pump module WITH sender was about 50 bucks cheaper than the pump module without the sender.
IF you buy the sender separate then it comes with just the wire clips; you have to pull the old sender's wires out of the connector and put the new ones into the old connector. IF you buy the whole module it just drops in.
Having done the job myself, it is REAL easy to screw up the install, and you have to get it just right otherwise the car isn't happy. Especially the little plastic transfer lines in the tank. When you put one (or both) tanks back in the car you have to be careful of all the little seals and emissions connectors so you don't get a leak. There are 2 (a green and a yellow) O-Rings on the big stainless steel bitch (crossover pipe), that are VERY easy to cut when you're removing or installing the crossover pipe since it is under alot of tension with the tranny still in the car.
There are several places where you could get an emissions leak if the tanks have to come out; there are 2 connections on the filler tube; the main rubber filler hose, and a small plastic emission line that connects to the filler housing where you insert the fuel nozzle. There is a plastic crossover line that connects both tanks, and sits above the big stainless crossover pipe. Lastly there are 3 plastic lines that connect to the carbon canister. If any of these break or have broken connectors you run the risk of an emissions leak. And the car WILL know. Also (this happened to me) even if you re assemble everything perfectly you'll still throw an evap emissions code because the wiring harness connector has oxidation inside it and so reports an out-of-spec value. Because of this I would recommend anyone doing the job to plug-in and unplug each of those connectors 5 or so times just to ensure a good electrical connection.
IF you buy the sender separate then it comes with just the wire clips; you have to pull the old sender's wires out of the connector and put the new ones into the old connector. IF you buy the whole module it just drops in.
Having done the job myself, it is REAL easy to screw up the install, and you have to get it just right otherwise the car isn't happy. Especially the little plastic transfer lines in the tank. When you put one (or both) tanks back in the car you have to be careful of all the little seals and emissions connectors so you don't get a leak. There are 2 (a green and a yellow) O-Rings on the big stainless steel bitch (crossover pipe), that are VERY easy to cut when you're removing or installing the crossover pipe since it is under alot of tension with the tranny still in the car.
There are several places where you could get an emissions leak if the tanks have to come out; there are 2 connections on the filler tube; the main rubber filler hose, and a small plastic emission line that connects to the filler housing where you insert the fuel nozzle. There is a plastic crossover line that connects both tanks, and sits above the big stainless crossover pipe. Lastly there are 3 plastic lines that connect to the carbon canister. If any of these break or have broken connectors you run the risk of an emissions leak. And the car WILL know. Also (this happened to me) even if you re assemble everything perfectly you'll still throw an evap emissions code because the wiring harness connector has oxidation inside it and so reports an out-of-spec value. Because of this I would recommend anyone doing the job to plug-in and unplug each of those connectors 5 or so times just to ensure a good electrical connection.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 46,295
Likes: 2,596
From: Northern, VA
St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
The senders are sold separate from the pump modules, and you can buy the pump modules without the senders. The funny part tho is that the pump module WITH sender was about 50 bucks cheaper than the pump module without the sender.
IF you buy the sender separate then it comes with just the wire clips; you have to pull the old sender's wires out of the connector and put the new ones into the old connector. IF you buy the whole module it just drops in.
Having done the job myself, it is REAL easy to screw up the install, and you have to get it just right otherwise the car isn't happy. Especially the little plastic transfer lines in the tank. When you put one (or both) tanks back in the car you have to be careful of all the little seals and emissions connectors so you don't get a leak. There are 2 (a green and a yellow) O-Rings on the big stainless steel bitch (crossover pipe), that are VERY easy to cut when you're removing or installing the crossover pipe since it is under alot of tension with the tranny still in the car.
There are several places where you could get an emissions leak if the tanks have to come out; there are 2 connections on the filler tube; the main rubber filler hose, and a small plastic emission line that connects to the filler housing where you insert the fuel nozzle. There is a plastic crossover line that connects both tanks, and sits above the big stainless crossover pipe. Lastly there are 3 plastic lines that connect to the carbon canister. If any of these break or have broken connectors you run the risk of an emissions leak. And the car WILL know. Also (this happened to me) even if you re assemble everything perfectly you'll still throw an evap emissions code because the wiring harness connector has oxidation inside it and so reports an out-of-spec value. Because of this I would recommend anyone doing the job to plug-in and unplug each of those connectors 5 or so times just to ensure a good electrical connection.
IF you buy the sender separate then it comes with just the wire clips; you have to pull the old sender's wires out of the connector and put the new ones into the old connector. IF you buy the whole module it just drops in.
Having done the job myself, it is REAL easy to screw up the install, and you have to get it just right otherwise the car isn't happy. Especially the little plastic transfer lines in the tank. When you put one (or both) tanks back in the car you have to be careful of all the little seals and emissions connectors so you don't get a leak. There are 2 (a green and a yellow) O-Rings on the big stainless steel bitch (crossover pipe), that are VERY easy to cut when you're removing or installing the crossover pipe since it is under alot of tension with the tranny still in the car.
There are several places where you could get an emissions leak if the tanks have to come out; there are 2 connections on the filler tube; the main rubber filler hose, and a small plastic emission line that connects to the filler housing where you insert the fuel nozzle. There is a plastic crossover line that connects both tanks, and sits above the big stainless crossover pipe. Lastly there are 3 plastic lines that connect to the carbon canister. If any of these break or have broken connectors you run the risk of an emissions leak. And the car WILL know. Also (this happened to me) even if you re assemble everything perfectly you'll still throw an evap emissions code because the wiring harness connector has oxidation inside it and so reports an out-of-spec value. Because of this I would recommend anyone doing the job to plug-in and unplug each of those connectors 5 or so times just to ensure a good electrical connection.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,448
Likes: 4
From: Sarasota Florida
St. Jude Donor '06
Apparently these guys are idiots. Suck it up and take it elsewhere.
And change the brand of gas you use. 2 sending units in 35k speaks of a gasoline problem.
Good luck!
And change the brand of gas you use. 2 sending units in 35k speaks of a gasoline problem.
Good luck!
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Katy TX
Not necessarily; they had a bad batch of senders in the right tank (we all know about the TSB/recall). If the original one was bad and the replacement one you got was bad as well this could happen.... Having said that - new replacement parts are corrected (which is why I did the job in the first place).
Also, you have to be real careful installing the pump modules with senders and the attached plastic transfer lines. It would be real easy to damage the delicate sender card during the process.
Also, you have to be real careful installing the pump modules with senders and the attached plastic transfer lines. It would be real easy to damage the delicate sender card during the process.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Katy TX
There is a reason the labor is expensive - it's a pain in the *** to do the job. Doable by yourself? I'm proof that it is. A pain in the ***? Definitely.
The way I see it there are really 2 reasons to do the job yourself:
1. Can't afford (or don't want to pay) someone else to do it.
2. Want to learn about the car.
The way I see it there are really 2 reasons to do the job yourself:
1. Can't afford (or don't want to pay) someone else to do it.
2. Want to learn about the car.
