Can someone tell me how difficult it is to replace rear wheel studs. Do you need a press to get them on. Need a start to finish if possible. THanks in advance.

 

On a Jeep some years ago. Did it on the street in front of the house, Brooklyn, NY style. Jack, Lug wrench & Mallet.
I forced out old half broken stud with a few taps of a mallet. Pulled the new one through & snug with an old lug nut, used an oversized nut or 2 as a temp spacer behind lug nut. Did it right on the car without pulling hubs off, May or may not get away without pulling rotors. If you do than you'll need to undo calipers so you can slide rotors off. 2 bolts, very simple, Just dont let them dangle on the brake lines.

 

with ALS 08

I haven't done it on a C6, but I've used his procedure on other cars.

I've worked on the wheels/brakes enough, and have read some other posts, that indicate that you should be able to remove the wheel, remove the caliper (2 bolts on the back of the caliper hold it to the bracket), then remove the rotor.

Once the rotor is off you'll see the lugs sticking out of the hub. You can rotate the hub until the back of the lug will be clear of other suspension parts. You should be able to either use a clamp to push it out, or bang away with a mallet to knock it out.

The problem is that in the rear there is the emergency brake and a backing plate. I've read that some owners have been able to still remove the lug without fully removing the hub. You may have to loosen the backing plate to get enough room to work in the area and get the old lug out and the new one in. I've read that some owners have drilled a hole in the backing plate big enough for the old lug to fit through when they drive it out of the hub and then can fit the new one in easily.

After you install the new lug in through the back of the hub, do just like ALS 08 said - put some oversized old nuts over the lug and screw on a lug nut and tighten it to pull the new lug into the hub.

Put on the rotor, replace caliper and torque the caliper bolts to 125 ft-lbs, put on the wheel and torque lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs, and you'll be done!!

Good luck!

Bob

 

To get the old lug out if it isn't broken off and to get the new lug in you need more room than the parking brake backing plate will give you. Don't know about a C6 but on the C5 if you were careful you could drill a hole in the backing plate next to the parking brake mount without screwing up the mount. Then you could turn the hub so the lug would pass through the hole.

If you aren't careful drilling the hole in the backing plate you could end up buying a new backing plate and doing some major disassembly work.

Bill

 

I went through this a few months ago. On the C6 the front hub has enough clearance to get the studs out and the new ones in. Unfortunately the rear hub should come off; there isn’t enough clearance to get the studs out or in. I looked at drilling an access hole but decided against it. I took it to a dealership that takes great care of a lot of N. CA Corvettes and had them do it according to the service manual. The only thing I would do differently is replace the stock studs with some ARP studs.

 

100% correct. the rear hub must come off. that means taking the rear suspension off the knuckle and then removing the hub. must also do this to replace the parking brake lining. real engineering there...........................

 

Yep, factory service manual shows rear hub must come off. Not hard, but pretty involved and will require an alignment when done.

 

My conclusion as well several months ago when I was investigating how to replace a rear damaged stud on my son's 08 coupe.

 

I just put ARP studs and SKF performance bearings on my car and the studs were easy with the hubs off, but getting the hubs off is a real project. The torx head caps screws are steel and the steering knuckle is aluminum.

You will also neeed a new axle shaft nut.

 

Great pictures. Thanks.

 

I made a video of this. You can do it this way putting in a new stud where a old stud came out. Brand new flanges require a bit different treatment.


Randy

 

You only show the easy part. The hard part is getting the hub off. You can replace stock studs without removing the hubs, but you can not install longer studs with the hub on the car.

 

I broke 2 rear studs on driver side 2006 c6... I took everything apart today.Caliper and rotor came off. Then I took the I think its called axle nut, not sure its 34mm lol. I took the shock off the bottom mount and then didnt have a box wrench big enough to take the nut next to the bottom shock mount so I stopped there and because I noticed that the auto parts gave me the wrong studs.

I'm going to return these and want to get something stronger like the ARP studs, which ones do I buy and where do you reccomend I get them?

How do I remove the hub, i've searched but only found instructions for c1s through c5s

Do I just remove that big nut by the bottom shock mount, and take off the 3 torx screw on the rear and it comes off? or is there more to it?

Any help is appreciated and thanks....

Anything else I should upgrade while I'm there...

 

If you are using stock length studs, you don't need to remove hub. Those three torx are a real challenge to remove. Also, you need a new axle nut.

 

Just finished installing ARP wheel studs on my car. What a major PITA. If GM would have moved the lower torx bolt over 1" you would never have to remove the hub from the car to replace the studs.

Part I used was ARP 100-7708 (or 9, but pretty sure it was 8) from Summit Racing.