Guys that have lower gears only please // need help choosing gears
02-22-2010, 04:21 PM
#41
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02-22-2010, 05:21 PM
#42
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St. Jude Donor '10
[QUOTE=SpinMonster;1573189093]If you can feel the difference between 4.10's and 3.90's bless your butt dyno because its way more sensitive than mine.
Hey Spin,
I did say there was a slight difference, what i meant was barely noticable, i should have been more specific, both 3:90 or 4:10 gears will make the car feel like more power was added, i was'nt only referring to the 4:10 gears.
gear.
ONLY TAKE ADVICE ON MODS FROM PEOPLE THAT HAVE THAT MOD.
I agree with everything you've explained, except i've had both 3:90 and 4:10 gears in my car. I've only launch between 3500-4500 rpm and i've broke two output shafts, two half shafts, cracked the rear diff case in half and the bell housing. I never broke any parts with the 3:90s. It seems like there's slight more shock when launching and sometimes violent wheel hop with the 4:10 gears. I was using drag radials and street tires which probably contributed to broken parts. I run the MT Streets with no wheel hop at all and so far no broken parts.
Hey Spin,
I did say there was a slight difference, what i meant was barely noticable, i should have been more specific, both 3:90 or 4:10 gears will make the car feel like more power was added, i was'nt only referring to the 4:10 gears.
gear.
ONLY TAKE ADVICE ON MODS FROM PEOPLE THAT HAVE THAT MOD.
I agree with everything you've explained, except i've had both 3:90 and 4:10 gears in my car. I've only launch between 3500-4500 rpm and i've broke two output shafts, two half shafts, cracked the rear diff case in half and the bell housing. I never broke any parts with the 3:90s. It seems like there's slight more shock when launching and sometimes violent wheel hop with the 4:10 gears. I was using drag radials and street tires which probably contributed to broken parts. I run the MT Streets with no wheel hop at all and so far no broken parts.
Last edited by chazc6; 02-22-2010 at 08:53 PM.
02-22-2010, 05:50 PM
#44
Tech Contributor
Stock gears or modded gears - the case in the 05's breaks. I got 301 runs out of mine and I think I was very lucky. Most break at much fewer runs, or on the street.
Here's what they look like when they break. I've seen a half dozen of these and they all break like this. I went with a C5 rear which takes some modding but are stronger. And a lot cheaper than C6 rears if you break one again at the strip.
Here's what they look like when they break. I've seen a half dozen of these and they all break like this. I went with a C5 rear which takes some modding but are stronger. And a lot cheaper than C6 rears if you break one again at the strip.
02-22-2010, 06:06 PM
#45
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I decided on the 06 and up rearend bc I want to do it the right way and every shop owner I talked to said putting a c5 zo6 rearend in was going backwards. Im not sure what to believe but already have had enough problems with this car and Im willing to pay a little more now instead of trying to fab something up and hope it works. Im glad this worked for Spin and Joe G, I just dont have a shop and dont know anyone here in Houston well enough yet to have them fab something like this for me.
02-22-2010, 07:28 PM
#47
Tech Contributor
I decided on the 06 and up rearend bc I want to do it the right way and every shop owner I talked to said putting a c5 zo6 rearend in was going backwards. Im not sure what to believe but already have had enough problems with this car and Im willing to pay a little more now instead of trying to fab something up and hope it works. Im glad this worked for Spin and Joe G, I just dont have a shop and dont know anyone here in Houston well enough yet to have them fab something like this for me.
But when you track a lot you gotta figure you are gonna blow rears. C5 rears, no core, can be had for $1,500 rebuilt with 4:10 gears. 06 and up C6's are about $2,500 or more with stock gears and no core. Prices may have come down from a year ago when I had to make this decision.
It's a pretty easy mod for those reading this and thinking about it.
Here is a great write up by Sparo. If I had it to do over again, I'd get a Pfadt C5 rear mount and just mod it's bracket that bolts to the bottom of the diff. That would be an easy mod.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-write-up.html
02-22-2010, 08:07 PM
#48
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'm sure you will be fine since you don't go to the track.
But when you track a lot you gotta figure you are gonna blow rears. C5 rears, no core, can be had for $1,500 rebuilt with 4:10 gears. 06 and up C6's are about $2,500 or more with stock gears and no core. Prices may have come down from a year ago when I had to make this decision.
It's a pretty easy mod for those reading this and thinking about it.
Here is a great write up by Sparo. If I had it to do over again, I'd get a Pfadt C5 rear mount and just mod it's bracket that bolts to the bottom of the diff. That would be an easy mod.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-write-up.html
But when you track a lot you gotta figure you are gonna blow rears. C5 rears, no core, can be had for $1,500 rebuilt with 4:10 gears. 06 and up C6's are about $2,500 or more with stock gears and no core. Prices may have come down from a year ago when I had to make this decision.
It's a pretty easy mod for those reading this and thinking about it.
Here is a great write up by Sparo. If I had it to do over again, I'd get a Pfadt C5 rear mount and just mod it's bracket that bolts to the bottom of the diff. That would be an easy mod.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-write-up.html
02-22-2010, 08:34 PM
#49
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
4.10s.....Don't know anyone with em' that don't love em!
My 2005 rearend is leaking and Im going to go ahead and replace it before it breaks. I think Im done with this car in terms of mods. I have 470 at the wheels and 430 tq. Its a 402 stroker motor with 240/244 cam on 115 lsa and the only thing I might add down the road is a fast intake. Im not going to add any power adders in the future.
This is my daily driver and I drive it pretty hard at times on the street but dont plan on taking it to the track.
Im upgrading to a 06 and up rear and trying to choose between 3.73, 3.90 and 4.10 gears.
What would you guys recommend for my application and why? Thanks!
This is my daily driver and I drive it pretty hard at times on the street but dont plan on taking it to the track.
Im upgrading to a 06 and up rear and trying to choose between 3.73, 3.90 and 4.10 gears.
What would you guys recommend for my application and why? Thanks!
Call ME, we'll build you a 2008 diff and provide all the parts to make it fit like a glove.....and not break!
Chuck CoW
02-23-2010, 03:33 AM
#50
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Y'all need to run a gear calc, as Sunsets car should do 200 w/ stock gearing, but even with 4.10s it won't happen...Spin can correct me if I'm wrong but I thought he used a 75shot, he also has z51 gearing which has a different 5th and 6th gear ratio too
02-23-2010, 03:34 AM
#51
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[quote=chazc6;1573192143]
Curious what clutch you were/are running?The difference in 3.90s and 4.10s is ~ the same as the height difference of the front to rear tire size, somebody swap a front tire on the back and tell me if they can tell an acceleration difference...I can't when I go from 315/30r18 to 275/40r18 ~same difference and I have 4.10s fwiw
If you can feel the difference between 4.10's and 3.90's bless your butt dyno because its way more sensitive than mine.
Hey Spin,
I did say there was a slight difference, what i meant was barely noticable, i should have been more specific, both 3:90 or 4:10 gears will make the car feel like more power was added, i was'nt only referring to the 4:10 gears.
gear.
I agree with everything you've explained, except i've had both 3:90 and 4:10 gears in my car. I've only launch between 3500-4500 rpm and i've broke two output shafts, two half shafts, cracked the rear diff case in half and the bell housing. I never broke any parts with the 3:90s. It seems like there's slight more shock when launching and sometimes violent wheel hop with the 4:10 gears. I was using drag radials and street tires which probably contributed to broken parts. I run the MT Streets with no wheel hop at all and so far no broken parts.
Hey Spin,
I did say there was a slight difference, what i meant was barely noticable, i should have been more specific, both 3:90 or 4:10 gears will make the car feel like more power was added, i was'nt only referring to the 4:10 gears.
gear.
ONLY TAKE ADVICE ON MODS FROM PEOPLE THAT HAVE THAT MOD.
I agree with everything you've explained, except i've had both 3:90 and 4:10 gears in my car. I've only launch between 3500-4500 rpm and i've broke two output shafts, two half shafts, cracked the rear diff case in half and the bell housing. I never broke any parts with the 3:90s. It seems like there's slight more shock when launching and sometimes violent wheel hop with the 4:10 gears. I was using drag radials and street tires which probably contributed to broken parts. I run the MT Streets with no wheel hop at all and so far no broken parts.
Last edited by PRE-Z06; 02-23-2010 at 03:39 AM.
02-23-2010, 04:10 AM
#52
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just to clarify there isn't a gearset available for the c6z diff yet, but guys have swapped in built c6 diffs as the fastest bolt-on c6z runs 4.10s, I've driven a friends modded c6z that has z51 tranny gear ratios w/ a 3.73 rearend
02-23-2010, 01:10 PM
#54
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '10
I'm running a Spec 3 Clutch & Spec Billet flywheel. I never said you can feel the difference, as i stated before, there's a slight difference and barely noticable. You might not feel the difference with gears or tires, but there is, depending on the Cam specs, rpm setting, tire height and gears, you can lower your 60' and ET by swaping 3.90s to 4.10, the 4.10s are simular to adding more torque. The gears may or may not have contributed to the broken parts. The violent and severe wheel hop i've had with street tires and launching at 3500-4500 rpms is probably the main cause for damage. I didn't have as much wheel hop with the 3.90 gears. There's no wheel hop at all with the MT ET Streets.
Last edited by chazc6; 02-23-2010 at 06:27 PM.
02-23-2010, 11:40 PM
#55
Tech Contributor
I'm running a Spec 3 Clutch & Spec Billet flywheel. I never said you can feel the difference, as i stated before, there's a slight difference and barely noticable. You might not feel the difference with gears or tires, but there is, depending on the Cam specs, rpm setting, tire height and gears, you can lower your 60' and ET by swaping 3.90s to 4.10, the 4.10s are simular to adding more torque. The gears may or may not have contributed to the broken parts. The violent and severe wheel hop i've had with street tires and launching at 3500-4500 rpms is probably the main cause for damage. I didn't have as much wheel hop with the 3.90 gears. There's no wheel hop at all with the MT ET Streets.
Bilstein sport shocks helped wheel hop on my car. the tires definitly helped when I too went to MT ET streets; A great tire
02-24-2010, 10:07 AM
#56
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St. Jude Donor '10
The Spec 3 combo works great for me too. I tried the Bilstein sport shocks and i still had severe wheel hop, but at the time i didn't have the MT ET Street tires, i replaced the Bilstien shocks with QA1 adjustable shocks and they helped a little but did not eliminate the wheel hop. I actually changed the springs and that didn't work. The only thing that completely eliminated the wheel hop is the MT ET Streets. Thanks
Last edited by chazc6; 02-24-2010 at 04:33 PM.
02-24-2010, 01:32 PM
#57
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
Leon is TOTALLY CORRECT!
These cars should have been built by GM with 4.10s. With 4.10s, they drive like stock!
That's how I feel about it.
Chuck CoW
02-24-2010, 01:54 PM
#58
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But no to the 31.5 MPG AVERAGE with the 4.10
I have 3.90's in my C-6 and it's with the base transmission.
Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 02-24-2010 at 01:57 PM.
02-24-2010, 04:26 PM
#59
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I have an '08 with Z51 and I had Chuck CoW put in 4.10's last year. My observations are that you definately shift more with the 4.10's. First gear is very short and your into second pretty quickly. Its not until 2nd and 3rd that you really start feeling the increased acceleration from the 4.10's. I'm still running my stock run flats and in 2nd., or 3rd all I have to do is mash the accelerator down about half way and the tires will spin like crazy. Over all I am happy I got them, although it did take some getting used to. For instance I usually cruise around town at 40MPH. With the 3.42's, I would stay in 3rd gear and run about 2200 RPM. Now at 40 in 3rd gear I am at about 3200 RPM. I usually shift into 4th now.
To sum up, you need to shift faster and get into 2nd and 3rd gear to really feel the effect of the gears, and you probably will have to make an extra shift to drive in the RPM range you were used to with the 3.42's at any given speed. But 5th and 6th are more usable gears (more power is felt when pressing the accelerator while cruising which means you can more easily pass without downshifting), and the power you feel is much greater. I read where someone said going from 3.42's to 4.10's was like adding 100HP. Well IMO I dont see that being true. I would say more like 40-50HP. But heck thats NOT BAD! Good LUCK!
To sum up, you need to shift faster and get into 2nd and 3rd gear to really feel the effect of the gears, and you probably will have to make an extra shift to drive in the RPM range you were used to with the 3.42's at any given speed. But 5th and 6th are more usable gears (more power is felt when pressing the accelerator while cruising which means you can more easily pass without downshifting), and the power you feel is much greater. I read where someone said going from 3.42's to 4.10's was like adding 100HP. Well IMO I dont see that being true. I would say more like 40-50HP. But heck thats NOT BAD! Good LUCK!
02-24-2010, 04:27 PM
#60
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St. Jude Donor '10
I'm curious, 31.5 mpg seems pretty high with 4.10 gears. I was expecting to reduce the mpg with the mods i have, and it did. Now i'm down to aprox 14-15 city and 24-25 hwy with the heads/cam & intake setup i have. If 31.5 mpg is accurate thats incredible. If i decide to put the car back to stock i'll keep the 4.10s.
Last edited by chazc6; 02-24-2010 at 04:37 PM.