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Help! C6 Hard to Start

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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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Default Help! C6 Hard to Start

I've done several searches for similar starting problems, but haven't found anything with the same issue. My 2009 C6 with 16K miles is hard to start. Mostly when the car is cold. Left it with the dealer overnight so they could duplicate the srarting issue. No luck with it starting hard. No computer codes found. Car runs fine once it starts, but it may turn over for 10-15 seconds before it starts. Any suggestions? Should I start with new plugs? Anything else to consider?
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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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I bet the fuel is draining back thru the pump. Connect a fuel pressure guage, run the engine and shut it down and let it sit overnight. If it is at 0psi in the am, crank it over and watch the guage. it should start after the pressure reaches about 40-50psi. Then tell them to put a pump in it.
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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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Wonder why the dealers service manager didn't check this out? I'll try to find a pressure gauge and give this a try. I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks for the reply!
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 09:43 AM
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A local guy (name witheld by request) had the same problem with his '07, Dealer couldn't verify the no start since it always started for them cold or warm. No codes shown.

Solution? Seems that the owner occasionally had his foot on the gas pedal while trying to start. The ECM sees the gas pedal depressed as a "flooded" start attempt and shuts off the fuel! A simple solution that worked for him.
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 04:09 PM
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The ecm need to see the throttle angle past 80% to go in clear flood mode. It is designed to start with just the starter button and brake/clutch depressed, that's it - no throttle.
see below for clear flood mode
Clear Flood Mode

If the engine is flooded with fuel during starting and will not start, the Clear Flood Mode can be manually selected. To select Clear Flood Mode, push the accelerator to wide open throttle (WOT). With this signal, the ECM will completely turn OFF the injectors and will maintain this stage as long as the ECM indicates a WOT condition with engine speed below 1,000 RPM.
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by haljensen
A local guy (name witheld by request) had the same problem with his '07, Dealer couldn't verify the no start since it always started for them cold or warm. No codes shown.

Solution? Seems that the owner occasionally had his foot on the gas pedal while trying to start. The ECM sees the gas pedal depressed as a "flooded" start attempt and shuts off the fuel! A simple solution that worked for him.
Thanks for the reply, but this condition is notcaused by an errant foot on the gas pedal. Even though this is my first Corvette- I know that this condition is not normal.
thanks-
Don
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DonBoy

Thanks for the reply, but this condition is notcaused by an errant foot on the gas pedal. Even though this is my first Corvette- I know that this condition is not normal.
thanks-
Don
Get that fuel pressure guage on there. I looked it up, key on engine off pressure should be 55-62psi. On a 1 line system, if the pump leaks back, the injectors have to purge the air from the line and rail. On the older 2 line sytems, the air would go back to the tank much more quickly via the return line. I have changed inline filters on other 1 line cars and it takes alot of cranking to get them refired.
You can also disconnect the breather hose behind the tb and spray some 2+2 into the plenum ( about 2-3 seconds). Put the hose back on and crank it. If it starts and stalls, you GOT a fuel delivery problem.
This is the only explanation I can think of for an long extended crank with an engine that runs perfectly normal within 15 seconds after it starts.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by martysauto
Get that fuel pressure guage on there. I looked it up, key on engine off pressure should be 55-62psi. On a 1 line system, if the pump leaks back, the injectors have to purge the air from the line and rail. On the older 2 line sytems, the air would go back to the tank much more quickly via the return line. I have changed inline filters on other 1 line cars and it takes alot of cranking to get them refired.
You can also disconnect the breather hose behind the tb and spray some 2+2 into the plenum ( about 2-3 seconds). Put the hose back on and crank it. If it starts and stalls, you GOT a fuel delivery problem.
This is the only explanation I can think of for an long extended crank with an engine that runs perfectly normal within 15 seconds after it starts.
You were exactly right! Pressure gauge showed that the pressure wasn't holding after shutting the car off. Reads 62 psi when it starts andas soon as it shuts off, drops quickly to 0. Called the local servicemanager and he said to bring it in next week and they would fix it. Just wish they were a little less dependent on computer codes when they troubleshoot a problem like this!
Thanks for the help on this Marty!
Don
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by DonBoy
You were exactly right! Pressure gauge showed that the pressure wasn't holding after shutting the car off. Reads 62 psi when it starts andas soon as it shuts off, drops quickly to 0. Called the local servicemanager and he said to bring it in next week and they would fix it. Just wish they were a little less dependent on computer codes when they troubleshoot a problem like this!
Thanks for the help on this Marty!
Don
Your welcome! People have helped me on this forum, so I'm happy to return the favor.
It's a shame you got such a weak effort from your dealer.
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 01:17 AM
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One thing to take into consideration is when you hook up the pressure tester the first time it will read zero because you just bled the pressure off.
The best way to see if its leaking down is to leave it on over night, if its low and wont start and then you see the pressure rise and it starts then theres your problem.

2 things commonly that cause hard starts is the pressure bleeding off and the crank sensor glitchy. good luck with it
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by HANNY
One thing to take into consideration is when you hook up the pressure tester the first time it will read zero because you just bled the pressure off.
The best way to see if its leaking down is to leave it on over night, if its low and wont start and then you see the pressure rise and it starts then theres your problem.

2 things commonly that cause hard starts is the pressure bleeding off and the crank sensor glitchy. good luck with it
I didn't need to wait overnight. As soon as I shut off the engine I could watch the pressure bleed off to 0 psi. Did this at least 6 times and got the same results each time.
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 08:57 AM
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good thing it's under warranty; that's not a cheap fix for the dealer.
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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Update -
Dealer has had the car since Monday afternoon. I told the service writer what I saw with the fuel pressure gauge. He says ok, but writes up the service ticket to say "Customer says car is hard to start." Tells me not to worry about it - the mechanics will check it out and do whatever necessary to fix it. Tuesday afternoon and no status call from the service writer. I call and he says- I'll go check... Comes back on the line and gives me song and dance that they found that they needed to replace the fuel pump. Hmmm! Good call. Well- we need to keep it until tomorrow because it's a big job to replace. Will be ready Wednesday afternoon....

Fast forward to Wednesday afternoon--- get a call from the service writer--putting everything back together, but they're running out of time and won't be done until Thursday afternoon. Tells me that to replace the fuel pump that they have to remove the whole drive train from the engine back to the transmission!

Is it possible that GM would design something as stupid as that? 2-1/2 days to replace a fuel pump? Sounds like BS to me...
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DonBoy
Update -
Dealer has had the car since Monday afternoon. I told the service writer what I saw with the fuel pressure gauge. He says ok, but writes up the service ticket to say "Customer says car is hard to start." Tells me not to worry about it - the mechanics will check it out and do whatever necessary to fix it. Tuesday afternoon and no status call from the service writer. I call and he says- I'll go check... Comes back on the line and gives me song and dance that they found that they needed to replace the fuel pump. Hmmm! Good call. Well- we need to keep it until tomorrow because it's a big job to replace. Will be ready Wednesday afternoon....

Fast forward to Wednesday afternoon--- get a call from the service writer--putting everything back together, but they're running out of time and won't be done until Thursday afternoon. Tells me that to replace the fuel pump that they have to remove the whole drive train from the engine back to the transmission!

Is it possible that GM would design something as stupid as that? 2-1/2 days to replace a fuel pump? Sounds like BS to me...
You do have to pull the tanks, but I think you can do that without dropping the driveline, but I'm not positive. However, losing pressure on shutdown doesn't sound like a bad fuel pump unless the check valve is back at the pump. Does anyone know? I would think either it's a bad check valve or leaky fuel injectors.

Edit #1: OK, I just found the schematic. Yes, the check valve is back at the pump, so they do have to pull the tanks. And if it's an auto, they have to drop the tranny to get the tanks out. Sounds like an absolutely terrible design from a maintainability standpoint.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1566299770-post6.html

Edit #2: Here's everything you EVER wanted to know about the Corvette fuel system:

http://www.hessh.de/Corvette/FuelTankSystem.pdf

Note it says: When the engine is shut off and the turbine pump stops, a reverse flow check valve (W) maintains pressure in the system to ensure rapid pressure buildup during the next startup cycle.

Last edited by glennhl; Mar 24, 2010 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:16 PM
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Well to close out this thread- picked up the car this afternoon. Car starts immediately after pushing the start button, which is what I had always expected. The service writer apologized for not realizing how long it would take to replace the fuel pump. He said that they hadn't had to replace one on his watch... The paperwork indicates that the drive line had to be dropped and the left fuel tank removed to replace the fuel pump module. He told me that the warranty work allowed 13 manhours for the replacement. From now on, I will simply request a replacement ride when I leave the car for warrranty work.

Thanks for all the replies and the information provided. This has been a continuing learning experience to say the least!
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DonBoy
Well to close out this thread- picked up the car this afternoon. Car starts immediately after pushing the start button, which is what I had always expected. The service writer apologized for not realizing how long it would take to replace the fuel pump. He said that they hadn't had to replace one on his watch... The paperwork indicates that the drive line had to be dropped and the left fuel tank removed to replace the fuel pump module. He told me that the warranty work allowed 13 manhours for the replacement. From now on, I will simply request a replacement ride when I leave the car for warrranty work.

Thanks for all the replies and the information provided. This has been a continuing learning experience to say the least!
Reply

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