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I am removing my calipers & brackets to be powder coated. I remember somewhere reading on CF to replace crush washers. What exactly is involved here, or is someone simply referring to replacing lock washers. I don't want to miss anything when they go back together, and have to pick up some BS washer at the dealer taking half the day, or is it even necessary. Running out during an install kills your day. I just replaced the pads on my Magnum & there was nothing to replace 'cept for the pads, grease the pins slap it all back together. Thanks in advance.
I am removing my calipers & brackets to be powder coated. I remember somewhere reading on CF to replace crush washers. What exactly is involved here, or is someone simply referring to replacing lock washers. I don't want to miss anything when they go back together, and have to pick up some BS washer at the dealer taking half the day, or is it even necessary. Running out during an install kills your day. I just replaced the pads on my Magnum & there was nothing to replace 'cept for the pads, grease the pins slap it all back together. Thanks in advance.
you need to replace the copper washers on the hose connection to the caliper. two are required for each caliper. dealer usually only has a few. you need eight total. gm says to replace them when you open the hose connection. torque the bolts to 23 ft.lbs. do one at a time. then bleed them starting with the RR, LF,LR,RF. i have done over 50 sets of these and never had a problem. the old washers sometimes are hard to remove, so fill the master cyl. up between the front and rear. mike the powdercoater is the best to use. it is a good idea after you bleed them, to start the engine and have somebody hold the brake pedal down while you inspect each one for leaks. also, don't forget to tighten the bleeder screws tight. they will leak..........ask me how i know...lol.....hope this helps. cranky
I hate to say it but i have done hundreds of brake jobs and only used new ones when they were damaged or lost.
You have to be very sure they are the right size (some aftermarket core calipers arent and they leak.) and be sure to tourque them. They have a tendency to leak until the get fully seated (the calipers usually have round grooves where they connect and not fully seated they will leak like a bitch, sometimes they need tightend twice to get the mto seat). Times i have had issues i would just use the old ones and the leak was fixed so i have a tendency to use the old ones, now issues that way yet,,,,,,,but thats just me
I hate to say it but i have done hundreds of brake jobs and only used new ones when they were damaged or lost.
......... Times i have had issues i would just use the old ones and the leak was fixed so i have a tendency to use the old ones, .......
Have also resued the old washers many times with no issues. If they are not damaged, reuse them.
It also seems like you are not sure where they even are? The bolt that holds the brake hose to the caliper is where they are located. There is one on top of the brake hose "block" and one on the bottom.
Another thing you are going to find out is that all your brake fluid is going to run out due to only gravity when the brake hoses are removed from the calipers. Just pointing them up in the air is no good as the hose ends will still be lower than the fluid reservoir and the "head pressure" will push all the fluid out.
Find a bolt about the same diameter size as the brake hose bolt. Re-use those two crush washers, one on top and one on the bottom of the hose block - install a nut and tighten slightly to seal the end of the hose until you get your calipers back from powder coating.