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I am at 24 at WOT and 11.4 comp and 12.7 afr. I sometimes get a 1/2 degree of knock at 5200 or so, my torque peak. If I run a gallon of race fuel at the track it quells the knock. Around town it's fine.
I am at 24 at WOT and 11.4 comp and 12.7 afr. I sometimes get a 1/2 degree of knock at 5200 or so, my torque peak. If I run a gallon of race fuel at the track it quells the knock. Around town it's fine.
Joe, I taught you were running the Stock Heads. 65CC. If I run the TF's
with A stock Gasket I would be at 11.52 Comp. Presently at 12.9 AFR
no knock . Timing table looks like 23 WOT. I will probably take A few degrees off till I get it to the dyno on April 19th. Put the table back in and see what Jeremy can get. He likes the heads but He and Spin feel I can use more Cam. I cant live with any bucking in slow traffic but the last time
Jeremy tuned it out. I am leaning to keeping the 232 CAM.
Is the LS3 Head Gasket the right one to be used with the LS2 employing
Trick Flow Heads. Im a bit confused on this one ?
Thanks guys for all the help here. I still have a few installation questions
though. When I remove the Heads is there A way to prevent coolant from spilling into the cylinders ond all over the place ? I thought of vacuuming
each bolt hole out of the Head immediately after the removal of that Bolt.
Is the LS3 Head Gasket the right one to be used with the LS2 employing
Trick Flow Heads. Im a bit confused on this one ?
The Ls2 and Ls3 headgaskets are the same Except in the bore, if you're using stock bore Ls2 you want the Ls2.
Make sure you install them per instructions!!
Thanks guys for all the help here. I still have a few installation questions
though. When I remove the Heads is there A way to prevent coolant from spilling into the cylinders ond all over the place ? I thought of vacuuming
each bolt hole out of the Head immediately after the removal of that Bolt.
The coolant needs to be drained from radiator and the block, as good as you can, after removal you can take a blow gun and a rag and blow around all the cyl bores and bolts, then dry them the rest of the way by hand, before reassembly wipe the head surface with paint thinner or brake clean, do the same for the block surface. if you want pm me for any questions you might have.
The coolant needs to be drained from radiator and the block, as good as you can, after removal you can take a blow gun and a rag and blow around all the cyl bores and bolts, then dry them the rest of the way by hand, before reassembly wipe the head surface with paint thinner or brake clean, do the same for the block surface. if you want pm me for any questions you might have.
^^ the coolant all over the place is keeping me from buying some trickflows and installing them in my garage...I hate cleaning up that stuff.
I read on a thread somewhere that you should leave a two bolts in but loose and pop up the heads to let them drain before you pull them off. True Phil?
And how do you drain the block? Does the ls2 have a drain?
To minimize the mess, I believe he's refering to draining the radiator first then pulling the water pump to drain as much as possible out of the block. If you don't pull the pump, then leaving the bolts partially in and lifting the heads to let them drain will help keep coolant out of the bolt holes, but it will still get in the cylinders. I didn't pull the pump, but would have if I had it to do over. As far as cam, unless you're trying to go for the record I'd stick with what you got...as I think Linghenfelter said, the best heads with an average cam will beat the best cam with average heads any day
Going with a bigger cam will not lose anything down low as long as you compensate for the later intake valve closing point by raising compression.
You will make about 490rwhp with your current cam.
A great cam for the TF225 is a 235LSK/235/XER 115+2. It needs about 11.8:1 compression and drives great due to its low 5 degree overlap. It also happens to work great with LS3 heads....flycutting needed on LS3 heads...not for TF225s.
Thanks guys for all the help here. I still have a few installation questions
though. When I remove the Heads is there A way to prevent coolant from spilling into the cylinders ond all over the place ? I thought of vacuuming
each bolt hole out of the Head immediately after the removal of that Bolt.
Put a drinking straw in the hole, wrap a rag around the base of the straw and blow compressed air into it as you raise the straw out of the hole. Repeat 2 or 3 times.
I see on LS1 how to They don't remove the power steering reservoir , they just use a wire tie and suspend it on the shroud. On the LS2 it looks like the water pump could stay on but if the heads retain that much more coolant, it's coming off. Spins idea is pretty good but I was thinking of using a WET VAC and reducing the Vac line to 1/4 " tygon tubing.
Who has the best price on the Trick Flows and Yello Terras now?
Are the 215's better or the 225's better for our 364's?
We are pretty competitive, they are not listed on the website ( working on that) but we can offer a good deal on any package a person might need. Vengeance can also swing a good deal on them as well.
On a 346 I would stick with the 215's or and AFR 205
Last edited by 99blancoss; Mar 31, 2010 at 12:04 PM.
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