cartop2

You can prevent the rear license plate from ruining the paint under the back plate. The nylon nut and little bumpers that GM provides may not be sufficient to prevent contact between the plate and your car’s finish. I know this is low tech for this group, but it may help prevent an oversight for a new owner.

When I removed the temporary license, there was a metal dealer plate underneath. The top edge of the dealer plate had been against the paint. To prevent permanent damage by the state license plate, this is what I did.

1. I bought some small (half inch diameter) clear bumpers at Walmart. The package is shown in the photo. Cost about $1.00.


http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...00x600_-10.jpg

2. I put three bumpers along the top with one of them on each end outside the holes and one centered between the holes. The one between the holes is needed because the plate will bend between the two outer bumpers causing contact at the center. See the photo below. The license plate is inside a chrome plated aluminum frame that has tabs at the bottom to keep the plate in.



3. Before installing the plate, I used cleaner to remove the mark made by the dealer plate, then waxed it. The wax was not yet buffed off in the photo below. Notice there are two little black bumpers already on the car to prevent the plate from making contact. They are so small that I did not trust them to do the job, especially with the frame on the plate. So, I put two bumpers on the lower edge of the plate.



4. With the plate installed, there is clearance all around. I do still need to get some chrome screws.



5. Run a piece of paper between the car and plate to make sure the edges are clearing. It may be necessary to use more bumpers if your plate or the car surface is not flat.

Its simple, costs very little, and may prevent some undesired damage.

CSixDude

Here is a test to separate the truly **** Retentive from the Boys.

How many of you remove your license plate when you wax your cars and wax behind it and then put it back on?

carpe dm

Good idea; thanks for the post.

cartop2

I've done it, but not every time I wax my car. On my daily driver cars, I do this about every other year.

HOXXOH

I use no frame, so removing the plate saves my hands from cuts.

marc8090

Great idea. What also works and what I did was to cut two 1" squares of 1/8" thick double sided foam tape. Install on the lower corners of the back of the plate and do not remove the backing from the side of the tape that will touch the paint. Keeps the plate, or frame in my case, just off the paint.

HOXXOH

After reading this, I checked mine to see if the plate (no frame) had touched the paint. There were a few abrasions that required a bit of work to remove.

I took a different direction to solving the problem. Instead of putting bumpers on the plate that would contact the paint before the plate hit, I put foam tape (like marc8090 used) on the plate directly in line with the bumpers on the car. I used washers behind the plate where the screws are, to space out the top.

That essentially moved the plate farther from the paint, rather than putting bumpers on the plate that would contact the paint first.

RocketDawg

Yes, I have been known to do this. Also wash the license plate and the frame before I put it back on. That's a pretty dirty environment back there.

Anybody know why they didn't provide holes for using 4 screws? My C5 did. It keeps the plate from flopping around.

truckplay

I ran 2 strips of foam tape on the back of the tag. YES I KNOW, but I also didn't want to scratch the paint.

victorf

Given to where I live, annual Safety Sticker is required to stick on the right side of the bumper and I never care for how license plate was only secured with the two top screws.

I made titanium backing plate, made/tig welded two 10-24 studs for bottom plate mount, then secured titanium backing plate with 3M tape to bumper.



No more scratches to bumper with annual Sticker replacement and license plate is mounted solid without vibration.

Gearhead Jim

Are you sure that will be strong enough?

victorf

I came pretty close to having my friend the structural engineer to run some numbers first before the install!

JCtx

I have always done that (but felt 'bumpers' instead) with my license plates. But I NEVER use brackets; just the license plate. Since my TX license plate is black and white, painted the screw heads black. However, many times there's already paint damage from stupid dealers putting their damn brackets, even when I specifically instruct them NOT to put anything. And same thing with their stupid logos, but at least they don't rivet them anymore . That, and front bumper license plate holes have always been (and will continue to be) deal-breakers for me .

victorf

^^"I have always done that (but felt 'bumpers' instead) with my license plates."

You used "felt" behind your plate?

JCtx

Go to Home Depot and you'll know what I'm talking about. I prefer them since they're thin, flat, and paint friendly. Unnoticeable when installed, and have never came off. Was just mentioning one more of the many different kinds of 'bumpers', but whatever suits you man.

victorf

Thanks.

Maybe it is advertised as paint friendly, but felt by nature will trap dirt - sorry.

JCtx

You need to look at them man. It's a rubbery finish. Hard to explain with words. Need to get more because finished it off with the Vette, so can't take a pic. Maybe I won't find it anymore. Bottom line is whatever you find is better than nothing. And since there won't be any 'rubbing' movement, it doesn't really matter what you use, as long as it's not metal .

victorf

You are right about "Bottom line is whatever you find is better than nothing." + "as long as it's not metal"

--

Sorry, I am just **** in nature - 39 years of Nuclear discipline will do it to anybody!

Bottom line is - with stock plate having captivation only at the top, bottom portion will vibrate, however small, while engine is running and vibrations will only worsen even going over smooth roads.

Even using stick on silicone bumper type material behind plate, lets just pretend no dust will ever come in contact between contact point (unlikely, since we all know rear of vette get a lot of dust), rubbing action due to vibration will accentuate wearing sacrificial effect between the weaker of the two material.

Believe me, I had experimented with various materials behind plate over the years, they all leave painted surface marred when looked closely. Those attempts lead me to my current rigid set up without possibility of any movement:



Nitty gritty I am, for sure, even while dealing with trivial process of mounting license plate!