Finally!
We love the short shifter. I love the Hurst Billet Plus! Can't beat it's rugged solid one piece construction. Teamed with the t-6060 it is great. The old hurst had a two piece stick. And not so solid base.
The Billet is much better. Except for the dreaded buzz or vibration. Which was easy to beat on the C-6.

But not with the Z0-6's more it's solid mounting.
After playing with it, The answer is to quell the vibration on the stick.
First the factory two rubber boot set up doesn't work or fit with the Hurst Billet slim one peice stick. So I added rubber to the base.
Sort like the factory stick , sized to the boots. Plus it quell
the rattles.

Perfect Job! I used stretch rubber from the plumbing section at the hardware. About 7.00 for a roll. It looks like black tape but it
seals pipes and sticks to itself. You want to stretch it as you wrap
it low as you can on the stick.
Pictures below. Perfect. rattle free, quick shifts after you are done.
Photo 1 is the first step. After the shifter is in place.
Notice the rubber on the stick. It is real solid and won't move.


photo2 is with second rubber installed on the stick above the first.

photo 3 is the first boot on.


photo 4 is second factory boot in place. This really seals tight and clamps the stick so no rattle and no transmisson noise's. Less noise than factory.

Last 2 are my favorite **** installed!

 

I just installed a Hurst shifter in my '07 C6, and it rattled/buzzed just like so many others I've read about on this forum.

I tried the tennis ball fix, and the rubber tape fix...but neither helped.

So I tried this...

I found a 3/4" id spring in my junk box, cut it so that it is about an inch longer than the height from the top of the pivot bar to the top of the shifter plate. Slid the spring over the shifter, fit a 3/4" washer over the shifter shaft, pushed the washer down to create pressure on the pivot shaft and tightened a hose clamp to hold the washer in place. I left a bit of space between the washer and the top of the shifter plate to maintain clearance between the washer and the Allen screws when the shifter is moved into the 1/2 and 5/6 gate.

No more rattles/buzzes!

If I could figure out how to simply post this picture with this message, I would. Maybe someone can walk me through the procedure.

PL Brand

 

Do you thing the additional mass or the tension of the spring eliminated the vibration.

Just adding mass to the shaft will change the harmonics.

 

When Toolmaker/Machinist bore thin walled job on machine, we would attach materials with band clamps or whatever convenience within the vicinity to add mass safely to subdue the vibration while boring. Sometimes, even placing a Babbitt hammer on the OD will quite down the vibration. On my MGW, I made my **** with 304 CRES 1 1/2" D. x 2 3/4" long for the mass to give me the desire effect. Happy modding!

 

The OEM shift **** is very light weight and may not be tight on the shifter shaft. Sometimes just adding a couple of layers of vinyl tape between the shaft and shift **** will help.

 

That is a great looking piece. well done.

 

Mk 2 version - I used a 3/4 lip seal instead of the metal washer. Worked nicely.

PB

 

I was just going to tell you to contact Victorf on the forums. He's got the fix, for sure....

Really nice guy (have met him personally), and he's a master machinist to boot.

 

Thank you fellas for the kind praise. Ragtop 99 and Spying Beast!

 

Thanks for the tip; did you compress the spring or just have it sit there and act as weight? Not sure on how strong of a spring to use?

 

how tight does the 3/4 ID spring supposed to fit in the shaft? I too did this mod, but the spring and shaft are super tight, doesn't allow spring to compress up or down. Thinking of getting a 7/8th ID spring instead of the 3/4th ID spring thats there now. Old tread hopefully someone chimes in.