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'05 C6/Z51 with 25K miles...."pulsing" in pedal from hard stops. Initial thought was warped rotor, although car has never been tracked & mileage is low (weekend driver). Pulled a wheel & found the rotor to be smooth as a baby's butt with plenty of material left on the pads. I don't have a run-out gauge, but spun the rotor & didn't feel anything odd with finger pressure on the swept surface (admittedly not very scientific). Only thing I noticed was that when I had installed Cray wheels several months ago, I had not removed the factory rotor retainers & they both (2 on opposite studs) appeared crushed. Apparently, the OEM wheels must have a machined relief on the inner side while the forged wheels do not. I've removed the retainers, but thunderstorms started up & I didn't have the opportunity for a test drive. Will do that later this week. Only thing I can think of is that the few thousandths thickness of the retainers was somehow creating an imbalance under braking. Anyone experience anything similar? I sure don't want to cut or replace the rotors unless I'm sure of the fix.
'05 C6/Z51 with 25K miles...."pulsing" in pedal from hard stops. Initial thought was warped rotor, although car has never been tracked & mileage is low (weekend driver). Pulled a wheel & found the rotor to be smooth as a baby's butt with plenty of material left on the pads. I don't have a run-out gauge, but spun the rotor & didn't feel anything odd with finger pressure on the swept surface (admittedly not very scientific). Only thing I noticed was that when I had installed Cray wheels several months ago, I had not removed the factory rotor retainers & they both (2 on opposite studs) appeared crushed. Apparently, the OEM wheels must have a machined relief on the inner side while the forged wheels do not. I've removed the retainers, but thunderstorms started up & I didn't have the opportunity for a test drive. Will do that later this week. Only thing I can think of is that the few thousandths thickness of the retainers was somehow creating an imbalance under braking. Anyone experience anything similar? I sure don't want to cut or replace the rotors unless I'm sure of the fix.
'05 C6/Z51 with 25K miles...."pulsing" in pedal from hard stops. Initial thought was warped rotor, although car has never been tracked & mileage is low (weekend driver). Pulled a wheel & found the rotor to be smooth as a baby's butt with plenty of material left on the pads. I don't have a run-out gauge, but spun the rotor & didn't feel anything odd with finger pressure on the swept surface (admittedly not very scientific). Only thing I noticed was that when I had installed Cray wheels several months ago, I had not removed the factory rotor retainers & they both (2 on opposite studs) appeared crushed. Apparently, the OEM wheels must have a machined relief on the inner side while the forged wheels do not. I've removed the retainers, but thunderstorms started up & I didn't have the opportunity for a test drive. Will do that later this week. Only thing I can think of is that the few thousandths thickness of the retainers was somehow creating an imbalance under braking. Anyone experience anything similar? I sure don't want to cut or replace the rotors unless I'm sure of the fix.
As stated above, before you begin tearing into the car or chasing a bunch of leads, I recommend you drive either another 'Vette or some other ABS equipped car and be completely sure this is not your ABS. A pulsing pedal is normal once ABS is engaged and working properly. You may also hear what sounds like rapid, intermittent grinding which is the ABS system at work.
C'mon!
The OP didn't mention anything about engaging the ABS. You have to get on the brakes pretty hard to do that.
The first thing to do for a pulsing pedal is a few hard stops from about 60 to 10 mph.
My brake pedal pulses every time after I wash the car- probably due to rust on the rotors. A few hard stops fixes everything.
'05 C6/Z51 with 25K miles...."pulsing" in pedal from hard stops. Initial thought was warped rotor, although car has never been tracked & mileage is low (weekend driver). Pulled a wheel & found the rotor to be smooth as a baby's butt with plenty of material left on the pads. I don't have a run-out gauge, but spun the rotor & didn't feel anything odd with finger pressure on the swept surface (admittedly not very scientific). Only thing I noticed was that when I had installed Cray wheels several months ago, I had not removed the factory rotor retainers & they both (2 on opposite studs) appeared crushed. Apparently, the OEM wheels must have a machined relief on the inner side while the forged wheels do not. I've removed the retainers, but thunderstorms started up & I didn't have the opportunity for a test drive. Will do that later this week. Only thing I can think of is that the few thousandths thickness of the retainers was somehow creating an imbalance under braking. Anyone experience anything similar? I sure don't want to cut or replace the rotors unless I'm sure of the fix.
You will not be able to see or feel a rotor that is out of parallel or that has excessive runout . A runout gauge or a lathe will reveal this condition. As little as .005" out can cause pedal pulsation.
Thanks guys....I doubt that it's the ABS....I'm pretty familiar with that feel & I'm feeling the pulsations on dry roads with no apparent wheel slip under braking.....and everything is tight. I'm traveling on business this week, but when I get home, I'll do a test drive to see if removal of the retainers has any effect. And yes, I have felt a slight vibration at 90/100+ so even if the retainers have nothing to do with the brake pulsing, removal may cure the high speed vibration. Will post more at end of the week.
It could be uneven pad deposits on the rotors. Like was mentioned above a few hard stops (no need to stop hard enough to engage the abs) from 60 to 10 will clean the rotors. Do not come to a full stop and then also drive about 15 minutes if you can without using the brakes to let them cool. There's a lot of good information on I believe it's Stoptech's site.